<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: earntaz</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 83hurstguy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd ditch the heat riser, just make sure the choke works on the carb, you'll be fine. I started and ran my '83 without issue a ton of times with headers (so no heat riser) and a working choke in single digit temps. You get heat from the exhaust crossover under the carb anyways. The stock manifolds are already restrictive enough...</div></div>
Good enough -- just takes a skoshi longer for the manifold to heat up. Another issue is when using stock exhaust head pipes, because the heat riser (about 2" thick) was removed, now the pipe may be too close to the floor pan ... assembly will show what the clearance is ... TAZ </div></div>
Good catch... I forgot the SBO uses the heat riser separate from the manifold.
Ryan, if you decide to block off the heat crossover under the intake, you can use these thin stainless plates in conjunction with a composite intake gasket in place of the turkey tray. Note that I would typically never ever ever endorse these guys for parts, but I believe they are the only ones on the market with it, unless you just use some thin/flat stainless. Do NOT use the cast iron plugs that hammer into the heads, they never stay in place and rattle around. The best option is really to pour them full, but that's a whole other discussion...
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The challenge with blocking off the heat crossover is that the choke will not like to work correctly (or at least will take a long time to fully open once the manifold heat soaks, which isn't good because it tends to cause the engine to run rich for extended durations). With the proper divorced choke carb for '68-69, there's not really an electric choke replacement available either.