Re: motor size
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Low 11's is easy even at 3800+ lbs, and you can do it with 460" or 490", whichever you prefer.
As an aside, since I'm not familiar with the new ZL-1 blocks, does anyone know how much clearance work would be required to get a 1/4" arm to clear?
Two main things to keep in mind:
1) E.T. isn't just about horsepower and torque; e.t. is about utilizing the horsepower and torque you have in the most efficient manner, i.e. getting to the 60', 330' and 660' clocks as quickly as possible.
2: The more low end power you make, the more work it's going to require to hook the car consistently. Fortunately there are a myriad of bolt-on suspension systems out there for GM A bodies, which means that 90% of the work has already been done for you. The other 10% is simply deciding which system to go with, and making whatever subsequent fine-tuning refinements are necessary after the system has been installed.
Back to the engine;
An "honest" 550 flywheel HP is all it would take to put a 3800 lb ride deep into the 11 second zone in a properly prepared car. You can make that with <11-1 compression and a decent flat tappet cam with what you already have. The 490" will make the power a little sooner (rpm-wise) and will have a more abundant torque curve down low.
Personally, provided the block will swallow the 1/4" crank w/o too much trouble, I would opt for the extra cubic inches since you're already starting from scratch and those extra 30" don't cost any more to build.
Wrapping the build up with a good converter, decent gearing and some sticky tires will net you your desired results, and it should be about as fussy as an anvil.
Eric
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Start with the basics first:
What are your performance goals?
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Im looking for a reliable street worthy motor to go low 11's. Want it to look somewhat stock using a ZL-1 block and 074 heads, headers, 198/163 intake. I fugure more displacement will yield more torque which would help my somewhat heavy 69 Chevelle 3800/3900 lbs. All I have is the block and heads..If I have to buy a crank kit..bigger is better..right??
ALbert
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Erich, the new blocks are based on a bowtie block..already machined for the bigger arm..all very good points also made in your post..figured Id start with the motor and work my way back.Already have a 3.73 gear th 400 w/shift kit and a mild converter. I want to change the converter but not until i am firm on my Motor combo...thanks guys!!
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1969 9566AA COPO Chevelle M-22
1969 Malibu 489 ZL-1 T-56/4.56
1969 Beaumont 540 th400 3.70
1969 Chevelle 300 Deluxe 427 ZL-1 M 22W
1970 Olds 442 W 30 2 door post
1969 Ply. GTX 426 hemi auto. Blue.
1940 Dodge pick up Durango 4X4
1968 Camaro ragtop LSA ZL1
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