Dip Painting ?s
 

Who has done this that can give a few details to look out for? -what paint, how thin (the paint itself and how thick the floating layer), number of coats,...? I'm doing a trans crossmember and thought I'd check here for some info before giving it a dunk with what I though was good.

Thanks, Paul

Re: Dip Painting ?s
 

Paul,

I have an acquaintance that owns many Corvettes and he is
a stickler for these types of details. I have heard this
bandied about in Vette circles, so I'd suggest you contact
the NCRS tech forum. I'm sure they can assist you.

NCRS link

Nuch

Re: Dip Painting ?s
 

I haven't played with it in several years, because just spraying the part is so much easier, but I've had pretty good luck with GM reconditioning paint (gallon cans came ready-to-spray) with about a 1" thick floating layer. Check the runs on your crossmember to see which dipping orientation you need to use, for a crossmember, a vertical dip would have to use a 55-gallon can to hold enough water.

Good luck! BCD.

Re: Dip Painting ?s
 

Ed,

How did you handle the runs that inevitably happen?

When I restored my '69 ( back in 1980 ), I remember that a
number of NOS GM sheet metal pieces had slight runs on them.
Some even required wet sanding to work the runs out.

For bracketry, etc. - I wonder if they were just hung on a
wire and dipped, or https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/dunno.gif

Nuch

Re: Dip Painting ?s
 

[ QUOTE ]
Ed,

How did you handle the runs that inevitably happen?

[/ QUOTE ]

Over the years, I've seen literally tons of original parts with paint runs. For non-exposed parts, it wasn't a concern. The objective at the time was to produce cars.
Let the runs fall were they may because thats the way the factory did it.

Re: Dip Painting ?s
 

Thanks for the NCRS link, I'll try there too. The piece is 27" long so it's not too bad to do on length. I'll see what info I get from both sites and give it a shot.

Paul

Re: Dip Painting ?s
 

Yup, Hung on a wire and dripped. No primer, either, just bare metal dipped in black.

On many parts, it looks like whatever oil or other coating the bare metal gets was not real condusive to the dip coat sticking, and that's why on lots of parts, just the runs are still there after nearly 40 years.

Since I want my newly restored parts to last, I epoxy or etch prime and then spray. Not the way the General did it, but looks very close (actually better) and lasts a long time. I've tried powder coat, but down here it's incredibly expensive, and not much more durable than hardened paint.

Good luck! BCD.

Re: Dip Painting ?s
 

This isn't a real good shot,but in reality it shows the uneveness of dip painting.
You can notice the thin areas right away,as well as the areas it collected in too.
The drips are real prevelant as well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...kedrum0010.jpg

Re: Dip Painting ?s
 

I have an unrestored 69 SS Chevelle and the dip painted items are noticeable (due to runs) upon close inspection (air cleaner, horns, license bracket). Personally, I think the effort to duplicate that painting method it is hardly worth it. I have numerous (but not always obvious) runs in the dipped items. If you want to duplicate the runs, that is easy. I'd personally do a nice prep with black primer (in case the paint chips) and then use your desired paint. Add the runs if you want. No one is looking for them.

Just my $.02 worth. Hope your project goes well.

Phil Woj.

PS. Runs aren't limited to the dipped items, the General had runs in numerous places on my cars. Especially the dash. I even have trunk spatter paint on my glove box door (69 Camaro 11k miles).

Re: Dip Painting ?s
 

Some of us duplicate the runs, even if it means a point deduction with the judges. Restore 'em as we found 'em, no better - no worse!