motor size
 

We'll I got the speed bug..want to build a bigger/more HP motor for the Malibu. Have another Zl-1 block and heads..How big do I go?..454 or +1/4 stroker? pros and cons of each?.expieriences?...let the learning curve begin https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/scholar.gif..thanks

Albert

Re: motor size
 

How about a 496?
Mike

Re: motor size
 

[ QUOTE ]
How about a 496?
Mike

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forgot to say..std bore block..why bore it https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/dunno.gif

Re: motor size
 

I would recommend that you put the ZL1 block away for another project and build something with an aftermarket aluminum block. For the money it is hard to beat the value of a 540,572 or 632, when they are built right they will last forever. You do not have spin them more than 6000 rpm to make power and there is a bunch of torque available from the moment you hit the throttle.
Mark Sheppard

Re: motor size
 

I agree with Mark. Here is a video of my 540 dart block and dart head set up. 725 horse and runs on pump gas. And will run 10's all day possible 9's with a day of tunning at track. Plus I can drive it anywhere. But the 454 stroker would be cool also. Good luck. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_MOV01294.jpg

Re: motor size
 

Start with the basics first:

What are your performance goals?

Re: motor size
 

[ QUOTE ]
Start with the basics first:

What are your performance goals?

[/ QUOTE ]

Im looking for a reliable street worthy motor to go low 11's. Want it to look somewhat stock using a ZL-1 block and 074 heads, headers, 198/163 intake. I fugure more displacement will yield more torque which would help my somewhat heavy 69 Chevelle 3800/3900 lbs. All I have is the block and heads..If I have to buy a crank kit..bigger is better..right??

ALbert

Re: motor size
 

[ QUOTE ]
I would recommend that you put the ZL1 block away for another project and build something with an aftermarket aluminum block. For the money it is hard to beat the value of a 540,572 or 632, when they are built right they will last forever. You do not have spin them more than 6000 rpm to make power and there is a bunch of torque available from the moment you hit the throttle.
Mark Sheppard

[/ QUOTE ]

Mark, you are probably right..but I already have the block..and another block is not in the budget..but 540 inches...Hmmmmmm thats sounds cool, but 480+ inches aint bad either https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif

Re: motor size
 

Low 11's is easy even at 3800+ lbs, and you can do it with 460" or 490", whichever you prefer.

As an aside, since I'm not familiar with the new ZL-1 blocks, does anyone know how much clearance work would be required to get a 1/4" arm to clear?

Two main things to keep in mind:

1) E.T. isn't just about horsepower and torque; e.t. is about utilizing the horsepower and torque you have in the most efficient manner, i.e. getting to the 60', 330' and 660' clocks as quickly as possible.

2: The more low end power you make, the more work it's going to require to hook the car consistently. Fortunately there are a myriad of bolt-on suspension systems out there for GM A bodies, which means that 90% of the work has already been done for you. The other 10% is simply deciding which system to go with, and making whatever subsequent fine-tuning refinements are necessary after the system has been installed.

Back to the engine;

An "honest" 550 flywheel HP is all it would take to put a 3800 lb ride deep into the 11 second zone in a properly prepared car. You can make that with <11-1 compression and a decent flat tappet cam with what you already have. The 490" will make the power a little sooner (rpm-wise) and will have a more abundant torque curve down low.

Personally, provided the block will swallow the 1/4" crank w/o too much trouble, I would opt for the extra cubic inches since you're already starting from scratch and those extra 30" don't cost any more to build.

Wrapping the build up with a good converter, decent gearing and some sticky tires will net you your desired results, and it should be about as fussy as an anvil.

Eric

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Start with the basics first:

What are your performance goals?

[/ QUOTE ]

Im looking for a reliable street worthy motor to go low 11's. Want it to look somewhat stock using a ZL-1 block and 074 heads, headers, 198/163 intake. I fugure more displacement will yield more torque which would help my somewhat heavy 69 Chevelle 3800/3900 lbs. All I have is the block and heads..If I have to buy a crank kit..bigger is better..right??

ALbert

[/ QUOTE ]

Re: motor size
 

If you're wanting a stock-ish 4150 flange you might also look at the GM 359 intake that all the S/S L78/L72 guys are running...there's a little bit of extra HP there out of the box, and you'd be starting with a nice, new part. Also, if you're stuck on the original ZL1 block I'd at least Ebay the 074s and buy a set of oval port Race Rites or AFRs (or another aluminum head of your choice)...the newer heads will ease your mind in regards to pulling studs/guides/dropping seats and whatever else plagues those old aluminum heads, and you'll be ahead of the game performance-wise. And, an iron headed bbc/400thm combo can get down to 3500lbs pretty easily [minus driver] so the aluminum engine is gonna chop another 150lbs or so off the nose [where it's most important]...you'll add a little bit back with a bigger bottom end, but not enough to sweat it.

You're biggest challenge is gonna be getting it off the line...ask me how I know... https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/smirk.gif