Oil Pan Sealing Tips LA Small Block?
 

I'm in the process of putting a clutch in my 69 D300 and while the transmission is out, I am fixing the oil leaks coming from the pan. Do you guys have a certain method of installing the gaskets & pans to eliminate the leaks? I have the Fel-Pro 4 piece gasket set with the cork pan rail gaskets and rubber end gaskets. I have thoroughly cleaned the pan and have straightened the pan rails.

I have heard to use high tack on the pan rails to glue the gasket in place and to use a small dab of RTV were the cork gaskets meet the rubber end seals. Leave the block side clean and dry and reinstall. If this is not correct, I would appreciate any feedback you guys can provide.

The best luck I have had is to ditch the end gaskets completely. Fill the voids with the best high temp RTV you can. Make certain the surfaces are CLEAN!!!!. Wait at least 48 hours before adding oil.

I've always done this reversed, stick the gaskets to the block and put the pan up. Chemically clean with brake clean, RTV is ok but #2 Permatex or Loctite anaerobic are good too. Film of what you are using on the side rails and end seals, and on the pan surface too, but not so much to squeeze out excess or split the gasket. DON'T over torque!

You'll never be closer to the rear main seal, I'd replace that too. Verify you aren't getting leaks from above, VC's, rear of intake, front crank, etc.

In my 25 years dealership career I dropped pans in the car on dozens of Chevy V8's and these methods worked for me. I had a ZERO tolerance for leaks. - Bill W

Before someone mentions the blue one piece gaskets, there is a car in my garage that came to me leaving a three inch spot every time you shut it off. I replaced the one piece pan gasket in the car with four piece, no leaks now.

Bill, was the 1 piece plastered with silicone at the ends ? Silicone will cause the blue seal surface to NOT seal and leak. I've installed several of the 1 piece ACCORDING TO THE DIRECTIONS and have had no leaks.

I haven't used the 4 piece either cork or rubber for many years. As has been mentioned, change the rear seal and install the ends offset from the cap seam by, at least, 22 degrees with a minute touch of gasket sealer on the ends, not silicone.
And, as has been also said, for any of the various gasket types being installed, ALL surfaces need to be sterile, If a white cloth doesn't come back without any discoloration, I keep cleaning and the final clean is with acetone.

You jogged a memory Lynn...in circumstances of a rough pan rail I have done just the opposite, used the end seals and RTV on the pan rails. What ever works! :beers:

That was too many depleted brain cells ago Mitch :hmmm:....I guess I'm too old school....

Lots of good advise to choose from here!

Edit: Just now thinking, between you, me, and Lynn, there must be well past 150 years of experience!!

Thanks for the advice fellas. I have replaced the rope rear main seal already with a rubber two piece seal and used just a small amount of black rtv where the two ends meet. I used red anaerobic sealer between the block and the cap since they are machined surfaces. I am doing the front cover gasket and seal, valve cover and the intake gaskets as well. None of them ever appear to have been replaced and the engine is quite an oily mess but it runs very well. When I’m done it should look as good as it runs I hope!

You working on a Pontiac ?? I haven't seen a rope rear seal in a Chevrolet in 55 years of working them.

318 LA small block mopar.

Ah, I didn't notice this was in the Mopar forum....:blush:

I do have a soft spot for Mopars. I bought a '72 'Cuda new for my 20th birthday.