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Camaro funny car
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My good friend Hans has urged me to show you guys what I received last week. The picture is from the Ebay auction.
I payed 1500$ for this tripple green X11 SB car, that was in need of total restoration. It seemed to be a decent car with new rear fender skins, tailpanel and trunk floor. |
Re: Camaro funny car
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Now to the "Funny" part. What I received didnīt really look like the car I bought. It had been hit in the left rear corner, damaging the new Taiwan sheetmetal.
I believe that Hans was hilarious when he saw this picture. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ins/tongue.gif So now the question is: do I buy Goodmark parts to make this a nice car again, or are there other good suppliers ? |
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Anders, Was this a Ebay car there or did you have it shipped in??
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I had it shipped in.
It will need a lot of parts, especially from the floor and back. Iīm not afraid of doing this car, Hans just doesnīt think it will be ready before I die. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif Why isnīt Jim Johnston living in Sweden ? So, do I buy Goodmark or ? |
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[ QUOTE ]
Why isnīt Jim Johnston living in Sweden ? [/ QUOTE ] Ahh, JJ only knows how to spray Cortez Silver paint anyway... https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif |
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Anders it looks as if you bought a 307 car right??? The question you need to ask yourself is "What are you planning to do with it?" Are you going to Pro Tour, Street/Strip, or go back to original??? If you go back to original I would go with GM if you can find it, but if you were leaning towards one of the other two, I would Goodmark it and save some money for a bad ass motor... https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ins/3gears.gif..Either way good luck and contact me if you need anything. Mark
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GoodMark if with Parts from one of our Sponsors D&R Classic restorations https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/smile.gif
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geez..is the nose just tossed on the frame??? man it dont look good in the second pic.
Bud |
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https://www.yenko.net/attachments/174286-X11skada002.jpg
Something tells me that car is going to need a alot more than some repop sheetmetal... what the $@!* happened to it??? https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...emlins/eek.gif |
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Definitely a challenging restoration!
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Looks like half the car is turning right and the other half is going straight!!
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[ QUOTE ]
https://www.yenko.net/attachments/174286-X11skada002.jpg Something tells me that car is going to need a alot more than some repop sheetmetal... what the $@!* happened to it??? https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...emlins/eek.gif [/ QUOTE ] Joe they shipped it on that small pallet under the car and it looks as if the car shifted in route.. |
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Oh, I thought those were a set of Swedish wooden ladder bars. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ins/tongue.gif
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It appears that the back 2 frame to body bolts are either not there, or have pulled through the floor. The front bolts appear to be there in some form. Maybe. You can most likley save it, but it's gonna be expensive, and very time consuming as I'm sure there are multiple issues that we can't see.
You may want to consider another project that is less material, or labor intensive. If not, good luck, and get friendly with your good mark dealer. If you need a full floor, the dii's fit well. |
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Mark, you are right about me making a decision here. If I keep it I will make it look original, so I want good quality. And I also saw it as a good testvehicle (not so good anymore https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/frown.gif) before starting on my COPO. Therefore I want to use the same sheetmetal on this car as on the COPO. I might have to change my mind on this though.
I might add that the frontend problem looks worse than it is. The subframe just wasnīt bolted to the unibody correctly. The problem is the floor and rear part of the body. Before they started working on it, I donīt think it was much worse than COPO-Peteīs white racer before it was restored. Schonye, like you said, there are multiple issues to consider. If I could find a car here in Sweden that I could cut the back-half off, it would save me some time. But I donīt think there is such a donor-car around. What is diiīs web address by the way ? |
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Hi Anders
Glad to se you got a new project. I got a good tips for you. What I heard is that Year one have the right thicknes of the steel. They tested it on there new mailboxCamaro. There is a guy here in sweden that inport parts regulary from them. around 50000$ a year. He lives in skellefteå. I contact you for more info. good luck with the car. Merry cristmas Magnus on Öland |
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I tend to agree with Schonye. I would find a better project (a muscle car) and ship it back or use for parts. A lot of time and money for a 307 2 barrel car. Have to ask yourself if when done, will this car satisfy the needs and pleasures I want it to. JMO Sam
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That certainly looks like a "funny car"...a Frost Green Camaro funny car!
Hopefully,it looks worse than it really is... |
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Sam, a 1969 Camaro in good shape is pretty valuable over here, regardless of what engine it came with from the factory. It would cost me more than 2000$ to ship it back to the US, so I think it is better to have the car done over here. Itīs also an opportunity to learn about the quality of available restoration parts. After having rebuilt the rearhalf of the car, I could sell it to someone who would do the restoration himself. That way I wouldnīt lose any money, and I would learn more about the parts.
So, considering the fact that it is probably a 307 car, what parts would you buy to get the best quality/Dollar ? |
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Anders, I would start with buying some very good used parts. I like good used. I think good used sheetmetal always seems to fit better than anything out there. Plus it is original. There are many good parts out there to bead blast or repaint yourself. When that doesn't work anymore I would, and I HATE to say it buy the Taiwan sheetmetal. (Goodmark) There are some better quality resto parts you can buy out there lately. Just keep looking. NOS and Jimmy Stubbing parts I would save for a better car. They are more expensive but....good quality. If you do not want to get parts reanodized or recolored buy some quality paints from Eastwood or Ricks First Generation for your colored and anonidized and dichromate parts. For an average driver to learn on I think you will be ok with these products. Everybody has to learn some where and this is as good as any. I would buy Jerry MacNeishs book. Get a Ricks First Generation catalog and have Bob Harris at Camaro Specialities send you his catalog. Your most valuable info will NO doubt come from this site and its people. Just look what Darren did (Darren X33)!! Don't hesitate to ask. That is how we ALL learn! Sam https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif
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