Compressed Air Piping
 

Hi everyone. Looking for advice on the best air piping to use for garage compressed air system. I would like to conceal in the walls and above the ceiling for the installation method. What is everyone using?
Thanks!
Bob

I used black iron pipe throughout the garage also behind the walls. I used T111 exterior siding inside held on with sheet rock screws. I collect signs so that's why the siding. The screws so you can get in there if you need to. It's been 12 years & no problems. I also ran the electrical behind but mounted it about chest high in case something was stacked on the floor....Joe

Black iron because it acts like a cooling agent, where plastic, or rubber insulates. I had a diagram I posted before that shows the proper routing and drops, but I can't find it now.

My "Rapid-Air" Plastic system has Constant issues, Sad I went this route now.
"MAXLINE" system.

I went with copper lines.

Black iron or type L copper pipe.

I ran all the piping high & when it stubs out at the wall each one has a ball valve shut off & also a drain about a foot below the tee coming out of the wall....Joe

What he said.

----Not kosher, but when I built my cave we buried the lines in the walls. My suggestion is that if you have anything behind a wall be sure to triple test the system. I now have to shut off mine at night, which isn't too big a deal. I have so much crap in front of the walls that I just can't imagine trying to fix the minor leak I have. If I forget it takes several hours to blead down....Bill S

I used the Rapid Air Rapid Pipe (aluminum pipe) about 5 years ago. I'm really happy with the product. I myself would be a bit skeptical about being sandwiched in the wall in the event of a leak or failure.

https://www.rapidairproducts.com/sho...-ft-master-kit

Nonetheless, the fittings were high quality and the system it easily added on to.

Tim

In my previous shop, I ran 50' of black iron on the ceiling, with 4 moisture drops and ball valves along the system. I don't see getting enough air to properly cool the pipe with long term use to condense the moisture out of the air enclosed in a ceiling/wall. When I ran my blast cabinet for a couple hours, I had moisture all the way to the 4th drop. In an 8 hour pressure pot blasting day, I had to stop halfway thru and let the pipe cool for an hour during lunch to prevent getting moisture in the sand.

Thanks for all of the replies. It seems like black pipe is the popular choice for doing this installation. I have looked at a few hdpe/aluminum offerings such as rapid air and was hoping that they were good options as they seem very simple to install. I have schedule 80 pvc in my current garage and I know some people cringe at the thought of using something like that because of the bursting danger. It has been installed for more than 10 years now and I do not have any leaks of any consideration. I wanted to upgrade from that material and do this right while hoping the more cumbersome installation of rigid and heavy pipe would not be necessary. I may be overstating the concern with this method, but lightweight bendable tubing sure has an appeal.

I'm curious as to what issues you are having?
I installed this system in my shop about 3 years ago with 4 air connections and found it to be trouble free. I would recommend it from my personal experience.
FWIW, I do not leave the lines charged, I close the outlet valve at the tank at night as I don't use it daily.

I installed the rapid air in my shop as well. I was easy to install and has been trouble free for the couple years I have had it installed.

Jason

1/2" schedule 80 pvc is rated to 850 psi. I don't see an issue with bursting at piston compressor capabilities.

I have been a Union Steamfitter for 48 years now 39 of which I worked at the trade. All of the systems mentioned will work in a shop. I personally used 3/4" (7/8" od) type L copper with sweat joints, dirt legs, and valves for blow off on all my drops. My compressor runs at a 125 psi in the system. The use of black iron sch 40 pipe is used industry wide in most commercial applications and is highly recommended. It resists breakage, bumps, tugs, etc. on the system. PVC is subject to burst with any of the same. Just my 2 cents.

It is also not UV protected. If you run it in the shop exposed to light, it will rot eventually.

I know I am REALLY the oddball here. I wanted something easier than black pipe. Even though I have my own threader, it is a pain cutting and threading to make it look good. When running 100 foot of natural gas line, I had to use black pipe. What a pain. It is heavy and difficult for an old man to work with.

I came across a great deal on several hundred feet of 1/2 in air brake line. Very flexible and easy to work with. If you heat the end, it stretches easily enough to get it over a pex line fitting.

It is UV protected and has a burst pressure of 1300 psi.

Talk about easy. Cut with pex cutters, heat the end with a heat gun for 20 seconds, use a brass pex fitting. Also found deals on bulk pex fittings and clamps.

My compressor has an aftercooler. I ran three loops up the wall and back down before any of the lines headed into the shop area. I have a fancy three stage dryer set up, but have never installed it. Each loop on the wall has a ball valve at the bottom. I open them every once in awhile but have NEVER seen moisture in the system. Sandblast for an hour straight, and never get moisture.

PVC has a high burst pressure. I used a standard compressor hose due to the tight area I needed it mounted.

This is some good info on compressor lines and such.

https://www.about-air-compressors.com/plumbing/

I have all copper buried in cieling and walls with bleed valves and h2o separators at all drops. All electric chest high. Also have Luann screwed to walls and cieling as opposed to drywall for ease of future access and ease of screwing signs, etc to walls. I also put 2x10’s strategically placed between studs and behind Luann in certain areas to mount a TV, speakers, etc.