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Keeping Busy and needing input?
Well I just finished correcting a few things on my 69 Orange white stripe RS/Z28:
Carb rebuilt- check Removed aftermarket stereo cassette & installed correct AM radio with rear speaker fader- check Removed and correctly installed new carpeting-check New project removal and rebuild of engine in orange with black stripe 69 RS/Z28. I have antifreeze entering cylinder #8. The engine is ready to pull all everything is disconnected. It could be a head gasket, but two issues the engine had.... low oil pressure and somewhat of a vibration. I had the engine rebuilt by a local engine shop and it produced great HP 411 at 7100. The rub is I had normal oil pressure prior and no vibration( yes I had the flywheel & pressure plate balanced. I was considering purchasing a "modern crate " and install. Also have the original engine rebuilt and stored. Any suggestions? My one thinking has always been the 302 is really the only unique item to a Z28 which is the reason I have stayed with the 302. |
Wouldn't the problem engine have a warranty to take it back and have them diagnose ?
As for the appearance of a 302 under the hood, any small block can be dressed to look like a 302. Honestly, a 383 would make more power at a lower rpm than the 302. If the lifter tick is important, a '70 Z, or custom grind, solid lifter cam would get that for you. |
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You're a crankshaft away from a 383. The carb, intake and heads will support it. As you know, I'm a big fan of the LT-1 cam |
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I considered stroking but again I wanted to feel that high reving low torque 302. Based on the dyno sheets it produced 373 lb/ft of torque. I will likely stay with the orig engine configuration. We will see..... |
Everyone asks the same question about a 69 Z/28.
"Does it still have the 302?" Change cam or compression ratio if you must, but keep that Z 302 powered! |
A GM crate engine (or any reputable company) will have a warranty, and can be dressed up which you already know. With today’s poor quality of camshaft and lifter failures, you’d be way ahead of the game-driving and enjoying. Rebuilding the engine is great, but unless the machine shop can repair/replace for free if there’s a failure……
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Steve, for me what makes a 1st gen Z/28 a Z/28 is the 302 engine, not the rally stripes or any other Z/28 standard or optional item. To me a Z/28 with any engine other than a real 302 is no longer a real Z/28. It doesn't have to be the original 302, just a 302 built exactly like the original would have been. My vote is to have the original engine rebuilt and put back into the car.
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Put the stroker crank in the 302. Tell no one. It will out pull and rev to 7000 no problem.
AND have so much more bottom end torque |
Steve, I have a good engine hoist if you need it. I can also make some time to give you a hand!
Buddy |
Stroker crank & 140 off-road ...?
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Thanks Buddy I appreciate the offer! I have a hoist and just need to coordinate with the rebuilder a date and time to deliver the engine. |
I would keep it stock stroke or swap in a different engine that you are comfortable thrashing on when driving it.
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Ditto what John said.
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If you want to hammer on it with no worries of what happens to the engine, go with more displacement. I have a 406 small block with AFR's, super victor, and a hydraulic flat tappet in my 67 Camaro and the torque makes the car so much fun to drive! Plus no adjusting valves.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C89dVVMKaLw&t=507s This is one of my favorite videos from years past of a build NRE did and it inspired me to go larger displacement on my Camaro. |
Stroker crank and a light flywheel. More torque, still revs. I liked and miss my two ‘69 Hugger Orange Z/28s, but I’m not a fan of the 302 driving experience. They’re like driving small displacement turbo engines. I bought an original owner ‘70 428CJ Mach 1 after the last one went away and that really solidified that I’m a torque guy. Build the original engine-you’re not racing and you don’t need to be tripping over an extra engine.
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Steve, as you know we’re purists through and through especially with the original paint survivor stuff like you. Years ago we had the chance to buy a gently used ZZ4 for our Z28 and contrary to my initial hesitation, it made using the car so much more enjoyable knowing the born with 302 (rebuilt but unknown specs of it) was completely protected. We just upgraded to a 383 stoker. This season has been very busy but this fall we plan to use the Z more. We also have an M22 to install to protect the original M21. Long and short - crate engines are cheap insurance and especially if you go with a vintage block, you can dress it stock in a pinch and no one but you would know anyways!
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Attachment 267523
Attachment 267524 19N681614 is lightly stamped & paint makes it difficult to decipher. Attachment 267526 Attachment 267545I removed the engine and will first determine the root cause of water in #8 and refresh the engine. This is a different rebuilder. It will be dynoed and reinstalled. I am going to remove all items needing replating, booster hood hinges, hood latch & zbar. The decision to stay with a semi stock rebuild is that 302 is what truly defines a Z28. It is a fun car to drive and when I sit in it, I relive my youth as a late teen and early 20's. |
I had a similar dilemma years ago when I rebuilt the original 302 in my '68 Z. I was hesitant of installing and damaging the engine since I wanted to drive the car as it was intended.
Consequently, I had American Speed out of Moline Ill build me a 355 cu in engine that I dressed as a 302...intake, valve covers etc. The engine made 456 hp on their dyno and after the install (along with a TKO 5 speed) the car was a blast to drive. I had them install a solid flat tappet cam & valvetrain that easily revved to 6500 rpm. Time goes on, I sold the car a few years ago and the purchaser got the fresh 302/M21 and loves the 355 from American Speed. The driving difference between the 302 and the 355 is like night and day. It all comes down to torque on the street and at 290 lbs. ft. the 302 is, quite frankly a dog below 4000 rpm. |
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