Fitting to run mechanical temperature gauge and dash light?
 

Trying to install a period correct mechanical S-W temperature gauge and still run the factory temp lights in the dash in a 62 409-409. As far as I can tell the temp sender location at the front of the factory 881 2x4 manifold is the only location to install a temperature sensor. Any suggestions to be able to do this or do I have to give up the dash lights in order to run the gauge?

Thanks

I have done this, but it's not pretty. I used brass fittings to look a little better.

Use a nipple into the intake with a T standing on end for the mechanical probe to go straight down. The electric sender will screw into the side of the T, but if it is too long, you will need another nipple and a union for the sender to screw into.
This was on my Pete to run 2 different temp senders to activate the fan for summer/winter, but same principal. I had to switch the harness plug from the 160 to 195, but they both "read" the water temp all the time.

Thanks - that is what I'm trying to avoid............

There are later model thermostat housings with sender ports cast in for emissions control senders, but again, it is going to look out of place, but maybe not as offensive as the brass tree...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...make/chevrolet


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2018_km_xl.jpg

I have one of those housings you can have for free if you want it. Just pay shipping. Flat rate postage is so expensive nowadays (it's like 8 or 9 bucks) that you may be better off getting one locally.

It is currently on the LT-1 that I am restoring, so I don't need it.

Thanks for the offer Lynn - in order for this to work with the correct upper radiator hose the t-stat housing would have to be straight forward rather than angled to the side - not sure I want to do that anyways as I might just live without the idiot lights and use the gauge in the name of aesthetics. Also not sure the sender would clear the bottom of the air cleaner base either.

Appreciate all the help on this. Thanks to everyone

You would think someone would make a sender with two electrical tabs; one for light and one for gauge. I have never seen one, and have no reason to believe one exists.

They kind os, sort of did that in the early to mid 60s where the green light went off between 103 & 121 & the red light came on between 223 & 250. No real gauge. He wants to use mech temp sender which is harder to do. The bulb needs to be in the water at all times....Joe

Or, you could look for something like this to fit in the radiator hose.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...BoCDCwQAvD_BwE

This amazing example of day 2 engineering was installed by the original owner of my 69 Z for two oil pressure guages...

Attachment 259008

I have something similar on my Z. But it is pretty inconspicuous on the back of the engine almost obscured by the distributor. I think Jake is looking for something less conspicuous, given that his only available source is at the very front of the intake.

'

A Block Coolant Drain Plug removed may offer a nicely out of sight location for whichever fitting is easier to adapt?:hmmm:
:beers:
~ Pete

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The hole size is much smaller and a reducer bushing would need to be used, and I don't think the bushing would be deep enough for the electric sender.

I was just out looking at my 409, Jake, and the only other possibility I saw would be a T at the intake for the 5/8" heater hose for the electric sender. Seems to be room around that area for this, but I only have a single carb, so no reference for clearance to the 2x4.
Dorman does have a straight neck cover. I have one similar on my '38 for the fan controller.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-902-2046


https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2-2046-007.JPG