69 Chevelle Re-Fresh...
 

Helping a local car friend with an under the hood 'refresh'...thought I would share a few photos and ask a couple of questions. This is not a 'concours' job...but we are trying to make it look nice. We have had some help from SYC members with parts and advice...much appreciated.

The motor is a base 396/325hp...he added the Motion style valve covers and an Edelbrock performer manifold. Engine has been gone thru...steel chain and gears, roller tip rockers, new water pump, new OEM oil pan, etc.

Questions:

-what is the correct color for dipstick tube and stick...and does the 325hp have the yellow tip?

-Muncie trans. with Hurst CP shifter...shouldn't there be bushings on the shift levers?

-Air cleaner base is missing the vent tube...does anyone sell this or perhaps someone here has a spare?

Thanks, wilma

Lookin' good !!
Yes the shifter rods should, have bushings. Plastic is standard for "normal" use, but steel are available if he is going to stir vigorously.

I LIKE those valve covers.

Stick and tube should be natural, just like in the picture. Yellow tip also...

That is a Camaro shifter not the correct one for a Chevelle.

Correct Chevelle shifter.

Keep Up The Great Work, Looks Awesome!!

Gregg

Hurst Shifter...
 

I kind of figured that when I looked at it...he says it has worked fine, so we will leave it alone. The vin stamp on the tranny is from a Camaro and the tag #3946797 denoted L34/L78.

He is cleaning the tranny and detailing the components...sent him info for bushing kit.

We are going to put the motor back in this weekend...I told him early Saturday morning...the afternoon is reserved for the Masters :3gears:

Thanks for all the input...it is a fun project, helps while I'm waiting for spring to arrive. :tongue:

Air Cleaner Base Missing Vent Tube...
 

We need a vent tube for the air cleaner base...are these available or do any of you folks have a spare?? It was removed and had a piece of tape over the hole.


thanks...wilma

Chevelle Update...
 

Engine and tranny went in today...we had the usual issues with bolts and odds and ends...some swearing...but it all happened. Still lots of detail work to do, install radiator, new inner fenders, trim out the engine bay, etc.

The boys did a good job.

Brakes..???
 

Sounds like the valve in the prop has shifted and is blocking the rear port. It needs to be centered again by removing the electric sensor. Sometimes a person can use a small jewelers screw driver thru the sensor hole to pry the valve piston back in place. Other times, you need to remove the cap on the end to move it. There is a tool to insert to prevent it from moving when bleeding one end before the other. RPOLS3 has gone thru this recently and bought the tool. The way I avoid this, is by gravity bleeding all 4 corners before pedal/pressure bleeding.

Corvette Central sells the vent tube in the C2 section under air cleaners.

Chevelle brakes...
 

We messed around with this yesterday...not much progress. My buddy took the valve off the car and tried to get the piston centered...i think he damaged it in the process. He has ordered a new valve....

So...when he does the install....should he just do the gravity bleed process you describe..?? Will he need the tool to hold the piston in position.?? If so, who is the best source for that gizmo.

Thanks...wilma

From Jake Dykstra's thread. Unfortunately, he didn't post where he bought the tool.
OK - so some good things happening already this morning. On my way into the office I stopped by my buddies shop for some advice. He tapped the valve lightly with a dead blow hammer after shooting some compressed air into the port and the piston centered on its own. I installed the centering tool to hold it in position.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1646660952

I don't have this tool, and always do the gravity bleed method, in the same order as bleeding..RR, LR, RF, LF.
I do open all 4 to begin with and shut them as fluid appears and then go around in the proper order and let fluid drain for a few seconds each.
Keep checking the master with all 4 open, it can go down quickly at first.

Sounds like you are having the same problem I had with the prop valve. I bought the centering tool from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/WISPAUSU-Comp...70711188&psc=1

Thanks Jake, I'm going to get 2 to have on hand also. 1 is $9 and 2 are $11 ?? May as well buy 2...:hmmm:

proportioning valve tool...
 

I just did the same...one for me and one for Gino.

Now when he gets the new valve and tool...should we install with the tool in place and then let the brakes gravity bleed. Then finish with pressure bleeding and when that is good...take out the tool and re-install the idiot switch.

???

wilma

No gravity bleeding necessary with the tool...pump away...:wink:

Pressure switch gets replaced with the centering tool, then pressure bleed, then remove tool and replace pressure switch.

Make sure the rear rubber hose isnt collasped inside.

update...
 

I haven't seen it in person yet...but Gino tells me he got the new valve and the tool [ordered from Amazon link in this thread] and the tool wont work...threads are different? Pretty sure he bought a repop valve from one of the catalog companies...

will update after i see it first hand.

-wilma