|
1956 Nomad gasser build
Some of you seem interested in the tri-five generation. My boss bought a 1956 Nomad in 1969 and raced the crap out of it for 3 years and then put it in storage in 1972. He has paid storage fees and drug it around with him ever since, vowing to one day put it together again. He's been telling me I'm going to build it for 5 years, while it sat in my way at the shop. I cleared out the last of the repairs they had for me a couple months ago and started on it !!
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...416%281%29.JPG Old school "poor boy" ball joint spacer to raise the front. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08417.JPG Home made ladder bar. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...418%281%29.JPG 327 engine he ran in it. Genuine vintage Enderle mechanical injection system. At the end of the '71 racing season, he pulled the engine to rebuild it and have the body restored. Sent it to a local place that blew the car apart, lost/sold much of the hard to find trim and then went out of business. He had the engine and injection system rebuilt while the body was being molested. It's been sitting around the shop in various places for the 13 years I've been around. He told me yesterday, it hasn't turned over in 50 years..:shocked: I thought he was doing that every so often. Monday, I will pull the plugs, spray some oil in the cylinders and turn it over. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...419%281%29.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08420.JPG He had bought a straight axle stub about a year ago, and acquired a 1957 rolling chassis about the same time. We got the chassis on the frame rack and I cut off the front and, after MANY hours of measuring and leveling, finally welded the stub on. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08423.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08436.JPG After I cut the front off, the frame acquired a slight diamond, with the left rail moving ahead about 3/8". I put a porta power between the rails and easily pushed it back before welding. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08450.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08456.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08457.JPG |
Onto the body. There wasn't much left inside to begin with, but I had to remove all the seats and headliner. First, I had to remove the gate, as there was too much weight behind the lift arms to balance well.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08468.JPG As rusted out as the main cabin floor is, the cargo floor and spare wheel well are in amazingly good condition. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08469.JPG The rear seat upper back is bolted thru the wheel house and looking at the amount of rust, I just took the easy way out and ground them off flush with the reinforcement plate...:grin: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08479.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08480.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08481.JPG Then I went after the headliner and bows. It, too, is in very nice condition and I wanted to save it intact, in case it would be wanted for a survivor car. Little did I know I was embarking on pulling out more than 600 staples !!! https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08486.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08492.JPG He had, also, bought a very expensive rotisserie about a year ago. I put that together last spring and it has sat in my way ever since too. The floor at the rockers is VERY rusted out and I was barely able to lift the body off the frame without it caving in. I had to add 400#s of "ballast" to the front floor and cowl with crushed glass media. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08493.JPG On the roto and ready to balance. I have a homemade roto that lacks the screw jacks for balancing. Wow, are those a treat compared to using a bottle jack under the arm T's...:rolleyes2: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08494.JPG Before I removed the doors, I welded in 2, 1'' square tubing bars to hold it in shape. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08507.JPG I cut out what little was left of the floor perimeter while on it's side. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08510.JPG Rolled it back over and knocked it out. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08512.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08513.JPG |
First order of repair is the lower inner quarter structure. It is supposed to be welded to the floor, but most of that area is gone. I bent up a piece of 18 gauge to patch it with. I'll need to do the same on the other side when next I go to work.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08515.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08516.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08517.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08518.JPG |
More more more. Don't leave out anything.
|
Quote:
The cabin floor work will be rather mundane, but after that, it's going to get very interesting. Yesterday, I ordered passenger car, stock appearing mini-tubs. The goal will be to integrate them onto the wagon, which they aren't designed for, and have them go unnoticed as not original...:dunno: I'm glad it's his money. Over 2k in new floor and cargo pans from Real Deal Steel and I'm going to butcher them for tubs...:headbang: |
Amazing Story, Mitch it is very neat to see your projects! You are a Metal Fabricator!!
Thanks for sharing! Gregg |
Metal Man
Metal Man Mitch lookin good on the 56, keep us posted. You got a way to go but I think you can handle it!!
|
WOW!!! Neat car with race history.. Haven't seen too many Nomad race cars! Keep it coming :3gears:
|
This I am diggin'
Great choice for a save Mitch. Subscribed! :biggthumpup: |
Subscribed! I currently have a '57 150 2 door in my garage to do some old-school hand lettering. Interesting build on this car too since, less than a year ago, it was a four door.
|
Amazing work, thank you for posting. I will be following the build.
|
Great work. You are a true craftsman. Thanks for sharing.
Jason |
Monday, I was burning off the remnants of an old, brazed on, patch when I realized I had my lower door brace welded to a panel I had to replace...:rolleyes2:
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08557.JPG I cut another tube and moved it back and up on the vent panel. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08558.JPG This is the replacement part. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08561.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08562.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08563.JPG In the process of doing that, I was wire wheeling the area and found rust damage in the toe board and pillar. That was to be Tuesdays work. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08566.JPG I cut the toe pan out and made a tag board template and then rough cut a piece of sheet steel. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08567.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08568.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08569.JPG I then bent the weld flange and used the stretcher jaws to give the piece some curvature to match the floor. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08570.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08572.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08573.JPG I didn't take any pics of the pillar patch, but here they are drill screwed in place for floor pan test fit. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08574.JPG |
Today, I made the patch for the right side inner quarter structure. I wasn't completely happy with the way the left side fit and looked, so I made this one to fit inside the existing panel. Looks WAY better in there.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08575.JPG On this side, I cut out the rotten wheel house so I could extend the patch far enough to cut and form to the new house. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08575.JPG Here's a "stop" the owner screwed on 51 years ago to fill a large rust hole with bondo...:grin: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08577.JPG Seems I forgot to take a pic of the bondo mountain under the stop. New panel all formed and cut to fit. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08578.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08579.JPG Much better looking and easier to weld too. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08580.JPG I liked how this fit and looked so well, I modified the left side to be the same. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08589.JPG In getting ready to test fit the floor pan, I had to remove the weld flange remnant from the toe board. I don't like spot weld drills for this, as they partially cut into the panel I want to save. Using a grinding wheel is my preferred method of spot weld removal and then clean up the flange with a 80 grit disc. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08587.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08588.JPG Then I started mocking up the new wide wheel tubs. These are for a sedan, so I cut off the lower part that won't be used on the wagon. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08582.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08583.JPG I layed it in place, to get an idea of where I was going to go with this and it seems that it will be easier than I thought to graft this onto the wall. Cutting the cabin and cargo floors will be a challenge. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08584.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08585.JPG As well as getting the radius cut in the existing panels to fit the new house into the wall and blending it so it looks like to belongs there. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08586.JPG Test fitting the cabin floor is about the next move, so I have to remove the rest of the old cabin floor at the cargo floor. There is a brace under this to reinforce the cabin floor, so I just drilled thru all 3 panels to remove the floor remnant and brace. Only got halfway thru when the time bell rang. I'll get this out and the floor layed in place next Monday. I think the car will take on a pretty cool appearance with a complete, new floor sitting place...:smile: Thanks for tuning in for the fun and butchery. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08590.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08591.JPG |
Love it!!! I have a 55 2 door sedan that needs some of this same treatment, so I will be learning off this.
|
Got the last of the original floor remnants ground off this morning and lifted the floor into place with the lift for a trial fit. I gotta say, this floor fits about as good as anything you could get. I left as much of the original weld seams on the car as a reference and it matches very well.
I've put a number of 1 piece pans in vehicles now and it is still cool. I work 2-3 days getting ready for this and end up with a big hole and, wha-la, 1 piece and it looks like a vehicle again. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08597.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08598.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08595.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08596.JPG Since that fit so well, I went after removing the left outer rocker cover the owner installed in 1970. I couldn't tell exactly where his seam was, so I just used the stone grinder to remove the edge of the metal, to preserve the original underneath. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08600.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08601.JPG I only saw the one spot weld and wondered why. I found out quickly when I started grinding off the paint. The whole seam is leaded...:tongue: That's tomorrow's removal process. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08602.JPG |
Great job of rust repair there Mitch. This looks like a fun project. I know I will enjoy watching the progress of this one.:beers:
|
My uncle has a '55 handy man wagon. I'm about to start doing the same thing to it. I've already done the frame modifications so that wider tires will fit the rear.
|
Quote:
I was on the tri-five.com website and read thru a gasser build. That guy flipped the stock spring mounts from side to side and moved the springs inboard of the rails. That is what I'm going to do to his. No frame mods at all. |
I think this is what I used. https://www.performanceonline.com/19...caAl09EALw_wcB
|
Quote:
|
I installed one of those in frame kits several years ago in a '57 wagon. It's an OK mod, but there was something funky about the shackles and I can't remember what. They have probably been improved since then.
I got the lead out this morning...:wink: and removed the rocker remnant. Test fit the new rocker and marked where I needed to cut the inside quarter patch I made. I made this patch long and knew I would need to trim it, as I had nothing left of the original rocker to know where this went. I need to cut this back about an inch and taper the end. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08603.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08604.JPG I had to remove the patch and that required lowering that corner of the floor pan. Once it was out, i had no way to hold it up in place to get the screws started while reaching thru the bars and around the door post. I finally thought of this magnet that has been sitting in a tool box drawer for years and seldom used. Worked great as a handle to hold the panel. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08606.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08605.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08607.JPG Looks like the rocker should go back further, but the front lines up where it should be so this is where it goes. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08608.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08609.JPG I had to move my pillar patch to the outside and down to get it to fill that gap. Fit great, but no pic. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08611.JPG Same exact work needed on the right side and that fell into place. This is coming along better than I expected. A couple more pieces to get fitted and it will be ready to mark for welds and blow apart for prep. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08612.JPG |
2 Attachment(s)
Nice work.
We move the rear springs to under the frame rail with the pockets. It leaves more room for other things and works just fine. |
|
Yep, I did that on another car, but no ladder bars on that one. This one will get ladder bars under the frame rails with the springs inside. We bought a stock sedan gas tank and not having bars inside the frame rails will help with that fitting without modification....I hope...:hmmm:
|
Quote:
What do you use on the front of the ladder bars to allow them to move rearward when the springs compress ?? I've read a fair amount about very harsh ride and brackets cracking if the bar can't move with the axle. |
I put the doors back on and got them gapped to the body and then gapped the rockers and tack welded them.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08616.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08617.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08618.JPG I ordered these repro braces a couple weeks ago and had to fit them. They are a reasonable facsimile, but still needed hammer forming and bending to actually FIT where they belonged. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08620.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08622.JPG Fully welded the patches and ground them to look respectable. Also, removed the brace bars. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08619.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08621.JPG I need to fabricate a patch and flange for the left wheel house to quarter, so cut out the radius from a sheet and a strip to make this in 2 pieces. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08623.JPG https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2FDSC08624.JPG That's all for this week. |
I need to fabricate a patch and flange for the left wheel house to quarter, so cut out the radius from a sheet and a strip to make this in 2 pieces.
A shrinker and stretcher would allow you to make this from one piece. |
Quote:
I tried that as a test on a 12" long angle and the flange on the quarter panel is 1 1/4" wide, the stretcher jaws only contact about half that and don't stretch the metal evenly and distorts the strip on the wheel house. I'm not patient enough to keep messing with it to fit right, so will make it this way to keep moving. |
1 Attachment(s)
Nice work Mitch! I miss my old Nomad. What a fun and unique car. I restored this one about ten years ago. No gray hair! :biggthumpup:
Cheers Dave |
Love the Nomad build. Wouldn't have expected to see this on a website like this.
We've had our 56 Nomad since 1977. Back then I did some minor floor repairs, then daily drove it up through the 80's, until about 89 when one of the rear frame spring perches broke. Parked it since. This past year been working on it off and on, then this thread popped up. What are the chances? I fixed the frame. Still runs and drives with the same 327/4-speed and 4.56's. It needs rockers on both sides along with a couple frame braces but nothing horrible. Rest of the car is very solid. It was my hotrod since the 70's and will remain that way. Plan to leave it in primer, put all the trim back on and just enjoy daily driving it again. Excellent work, can't wait to see it finished :beers: |
Yeah, not much happening on here for restorations/builds since Nor-Cam finished his car. A few people seem to have, or be, interested in the tri fives, so I figured I'd share what I was doing at work.
|
1 Attachment(s)
Nice looking Nomad there Dave.
Regarding the tri fives and this Nomad... I have begun to take a liking to the 56's and I especially like the Copper with the cream 2 tone. My dad raced a D gas -55 2dr post in the mid 60's- he talked about helping a friend turn a 56 wagon into a gasser-speaking of the insulation he said - they rolled it onto the roof and sprayed it down with kero and set it on fire to burn all of the insulation and undercoating off the car. I think he said it was run in B gas with a W motor 348 or 409 & 4 spd.' The two of us have been talking about building a tri five or a straight axle vette to run in the SEG South Eastern Gassers sanctioned races - they run A-F Gas on a 1967 NHRA rule book. No electronics, clutch shifted 3 or 4 speed, only period correct wheels etc and they allow a slight weight advantage(IIRC 100lbs) if you run a period correct mechanical fuel injection set up. Quain Stott started the series a decade or just over ago and told me he thought maybe they would run some exhibitions for a year or two and that would be it, that was 7 years ago and at that time he was amazed at it's growth. Quain still has the remains of this drag car built and raced in Kansas City and then brought to upstate SC & traded by Jim Little with the blue plexi hood scoop and cage as a drag car to Stott Chevrolet in 1969-1970 - it's a 67 camaro conv SS 396 4 spd. I have been trying to get him to drag it out and lets figure out where it was sold new and more history for 15 years at least. |
This week, I kept finding "things" I needed to do before welding the floor in. The inner wall patch I was making needed the strap piece shaped to follow the inner wheel house. So I used the stretcher to put the shape in it.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Then I went to weld it to the side wall patch. I thought it would be a good idea to hold the pieces together with a large magnet. Then I couldn't get the mig gun to weld worth a dang. It kept sputtering like I didn't have the gas turned on and seemed to run out of wire. I kept turning up the pressure on the gas and feed rate on the wire until it looked decent, but then the puddle would run away. After 10 minutes of trying to figure out what happened to the welder, I realized the magnet was interfering with the process and moved the weld further away from it. I never considered the magnetic force on this would have such a drastic effect. Live and learn. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds It followed the curvature nicely, but still didn't follow the wall offset, so back in the shrinker to pull the sides in. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds OK, got that done, now I have to final weld the A pillar braces to the rocker, so got that done. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds THEN I got to final prep of the pan. Punched 136 holes in the rocker flanges and tunnel seam, cleaned off the EDP where I need to weld and clamped it in. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds We have a special vice grip with a U shape that holds the panels tight to weld thru, but the flanges were too short, so I had to move a pair of standard vise grips down the line and clamped every one on both sides for a tight fit. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Look Mom, no clamps. It's part of the body now. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds |
I too could not believe the first time I had a magnet interfere with the welding arc. I kept trying to figure it out.
Until I removed the magnet I had no clue that was the issue. |
Monday, I prepped the outer and inner rockers for spot welding them on the bottom.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I love the factory appearance of these welds. No further grinding or dressing needed. I got both sides done and went to take a pic and the battery in the camera went dead...figures. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I then cut out the left inner wheel house and drilled out the remaining spot welds of the rear inner wall and cargo floor. It was then that the sides got REALLY floppy !! https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds First thing this morning, I got the floor and walls back centered and built this bracing to hold it in position. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds With things stabilized again, I cut out the right inner wheel house and drilled out the remaining welds on that side too. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds This brace is part of the cargo floor and welded to the rear crossmember. The flange and welds are on the inside and I can't get at them, so I had to cut the flange off to be removed later. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Drilled out all but 4 of the welds across the back and the time bell rang. I didn't want to get any deeper into it today anyway, as once I pull this out, the body may need more bracing. That will be tomorrows task. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds |
JAG I support you SEGA ideas!!! I love watching these guys on YouTube. I want to go down there and check it out....
|
Don't know how I missed this thread!
Great work Mitch. I look forward to following along. |
I drilled out the last 4 "visible" spot welds and my intuition that the floor wasn't going to just fall out came true. The floor is spot welded to the rear crossmember BEFORE installation under the rear gate pillars and there was 1 spot weld on each side hidden that I couldn't drill out. Not a biggie, I rolled the car up on it's side and proceeded to "convince" the spot weld to let go with the Steck knife.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I made another big hole. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds This one will take a little longer to fill, as there is an other step to this. Imagineering a method of fitting wide wheel tubs in here...:smile: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I started that process by making a line 3" from the weld flange and cutting it out. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Clamped the wheel house in position and the cut out against it. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds THIS is going to work out WAY better than trying to bend a weld flange on the pan later. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds There is one teensy weensy problem. The tubs claimed they are 2 5/8" wider than stock, but I only gained 1.5" ??? Measuring the frame width and the floor, that will leave 1" of space per side for a tire on the table. Owner says' "not enough", so Monday I will cut a strip 2" wide to extend the tub further into the floor pan. Not a problem, we knew this was going to be a learning process as the guy at Real Deal Steel said this can't be done on a wagon/Nomad. I LOVE it when someone tells me that. My response is..... watch me...:laugh: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds |
I cut a strip and went to clamp it in the flange and The wheel house isn't straight. Lots of shrinking and stretching and even a little grinding to get it to follow the curvature.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I attached it with drill screws and clamped it back on the body. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I cut out the curvature in the remaining interior panel for clearance and this fits quite well. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds This gained another inch of tire room. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I got started on the same process for the left side. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds |
| All times are GMT. The time now is 02:10 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.