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1971 Chevelle repair
Some of you saw the pics I posted of a friends '71 Chevelle I was looking for parts for.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill I work part time at a major collision repair company, although I don't do that work. I have my own back room where I do restoration and modification work for them. There is a frame rack back there and I brought the Chevelle there a few weeks ago. After stripping the front sheet metal off, the shop owner and I straightened the left frame horn that took the brunt of the impact. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill I then locked the frame down and put 6 gauges on it to determine where and how much the frame was bent. I pulled the front rails left 5/8" to get them, and the front crossmember, back in alignment. Once we had the frame looking good, I installed all the used sheet metal I have acquired for a trial fit. It is very close and is well withing acceptable gaps to turn the car around and pull the rear damage out. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill The rear damage is causing a twist thru the center area of the frame. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill I need to get the body pulled back into shape before we can do all the final frame straightening and check for a diamond, which we assume it will have too. That is the next task. I will turn the car around next week and start on the back. I did pick up the 1 piece trunk floor, left quarter panel, tail panel and all the wheel houses yesterday, so I have most of what I will need to rebuild the body, once it is pulled out and all the inner structures are back in place. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill |
I am happy you are saving her....well done :)
Dan |
Amazing Mitch,the car is in the right hands.
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Very nice frame work. Our local frame guy well... he needs some lessons from you
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Here we go, rip, tear and dissect. I welded a pulling tab on the bumper and pulled that out far enough to gain access to the mounting bolts and remove it. The quarter started unfolding with it.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Once the bumper was off, I went to remove the wiring, but it was routed thru small holes in the frame and I had to cut it all apart to get it out. The connectors weren't going to fit back thru those holes. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Once that was cleared, I used 2 clamps on the quarter and tail panel, pulling them far enough to relieve the pressure on the frame and pull some of the deep buckles out. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill I had the body locked to the rack in front of the left tire and 2 ratchets holding the front of the frame from going backward and another chain holding the front from pulling sideways to the left from the towers at the rear. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill 20 tons of pulling power made easy work of unfolding the quarter and getting the door pillar back where it belonged. I have a very even gap again. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill This pic shows how far the quarter moved at impact. It had overlapped the door by almost a 1/2". https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Then I cut out a good size piece to get access to the reinforcement inner structure at the door pillar and to relieve more of the stress of the sail panel at the roof. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill There are still 2 shallow buckles but they are below the roof seam, so nothing to worry about. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill That's all for today, folks. |
Neat stuff :biggthumpup:
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Not much changed visually today. LOTS of time spent removing spot welds. I started drilling them, but I don't like the tip on the drills they have at work. By the time the top layer is drilled thru, most of the bottom layer is too, which I DON"T want to drill thru. I already have a handful of holes I need to weld shut and sand smooth. I went to a 3m 1991 stone to grind off the quarter panel material, leaving the substrate with only a slight amount of material gone. The stone is VERY slow, compared to a drill, but no time fixing a hole either.
I ground out all the welds on the quarter to trunk seal channel, but didn't bother with a pic of that. Tomorrow, I'll remove the rear glass and, hopefully, get the rest of the quarter off. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds |
Its great to have access to the right tools to be able to fix something like this, I am always intrigued by this type of repair and pulling things back to where they should be.
I love this thread. |
First thing this morning, I removed the rear window trim and went to cut the butyl seal with a hand cutter. Hmmm....when did the factory go to urethane ? That "stuff" is waaay harder to cut. Took me an hour...:crazy:
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Once the glass was out, I ground out the spot welds on the window channel. Doing it this way leaves the material below much better than drilling. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Finally time to remove the solder and spot welds at the roof seam. I save this for last, because I dislike this step. The solder is easy, but the panels were brazed at the ends too, which requires a lot more heat to melt. I did drill these spot welds, as the roof skin is over the quarter and I need a hole to plug weld back to. But I did prevail and the quarter is removed. From this point, this isn't much different than an extensive restoration, as most of the nasty, bent, stuff is off. The frame does have a twist that we will need to take out, but the shop owner wanted the quarter off to eliminate any stress it was placing on the frame. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds |
Fabulous work. I have never had access to a frame rack, and so far have not needed one for one. Wouldn't know how to use it correctly without a coach on hand. Your friend is lucky to have you. Not only do you have access to the right tools. You KNOW how to use them.
Will be following this one. |
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Cool thread and you're doing a great job resurrecting the Chevelle. It's a deja vu thing for me since my Dana '68 Z had been hit in the left rear somewhere around 1970. They just bondo'd it up and called it good. Fortunately, there's a shop in my town with all the right frame straightening equipment. The owner has an appreciation for old cars so I made sure I took advantage of the opportunity to fix the car right. I look forward to seeing more of your handiwork on the Chevelle.
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My '67 ss/rs was hit fairly hard in the right rear early in it's life and a quarter skin brazed on, partly over the old one. The trunk floor was still all wavy and the tail panel had been sectioned on thru the left tail light. LOTS of bondo on that mess to blend it all together too. A couple years ago, I replaced the entire trunk floor with a 1 piece and recently removed the cobbled quarter and got an NOS one in TN for the car. I do have a thread somewhere for that, slow moving, rebuild also. The Chevelle is good practice for me, as I have a documented '70 SS Chevelle that needs nearly every panel replaced. I hope I can live long enough to get all my "too many projects" done...:grin: |
I have been working on this, just not updating the thread as well as I could/should. I'll make brief comments on the progress, to keep this, somewhat short.
NONE of the 4 bolts in the trunk floor body mounts would come out, so I used a porta-power to make a little room for the sawzall and cut them off. Floor is junk anyway, so no loss. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I left the right side floor intact for now, to hold the quarter panel in place. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Then I crawled inside to drill out the spot welds at the leading edge to cabin pan. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I "thought" the spot welds I could see on the seat brace went all the way thru...NOT, I had to cut the brace off and drill out more welds under it. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds The floor still wouldn't come loose, so I cut the next level off and found MORE welds under that. The floor had been put in, in 3 pieces and all of them had their own welds...:rolleyes2: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds FINALLY got that out. Poor weld flange looks like a shredder got ahold of it. No worries, I'll straighten it out, but weld the new one along the leading edge anyway. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Next, I cut off all the rusted flange areas of both the inner and outer wheel houses. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds |
Next day, I went at it with the crud thug and removed the undercoating to have clean metal to weld to.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I used the cut offs as a guide for cutting repair sections out of the new houses. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds That lump of filler is what formed the lower 6" of the old, rusted out, houses. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds They actually fit together and line up well. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Then I removed the rest of the floor and most of the tail panel above it. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds The left tail pipe was bent badly over the axle and the extension pipe is gone from the crash. I got the numbers and did a search and both are obsolete, so I clamped on the pipe with the tower and pulled it out, but forgot the camera that day https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Yep, the clamp should be right under the hanger. Even THAT seems to be obsolete. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds |
Today was, sort of, fun. I placed the new floor, lined up the leading edge with the cabin pan, bolted it down with new mounts and welded the front onto the cabin pan. Not fun hunched inside doing all that, but the result was definitely fun...:biggthumpup:
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds New floor lined up well, but had a bow thru the center, so I used drill screws a bit of "influence" to convince it to lay flat. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Then I had to make a cocoon of burn blankets to protect the interior from weld spatter. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Floor welded https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Welded the seat brace back on and screwed the bottom down for welding. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Got that done and cleaned up the welds a little so it doesn't look as much like amateur hour welding. That seat brace is rather thin material. https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds |
Why don't you put a 70 front end on there while you got it apart! (just kidding but I do like that look)
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He thought about it, but original '70 front end parts are harder to find and more expensive. I've been looking for 2 nice front fenders for mine for a long time. They sell quickly and I'm always a day late seeing the ad. Called to order a repro cowl induction hood and they are a month out. Trunk lid is 4-6 MONTHS out. I have a nice original one I can use for fitting the new stuff in the back, but I need it for my '70, someday, so he can't keep it and have it painted. Well, he could, but I'm gonna repossess it someday...:grin:...maybe. I should look at the one on my car and see what condition it is in. Been a "few" years since I looked at it...:dunno: |
Great sheet metal work :biggthumpup:
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This pic is a repeat. Hard to see but I left the weld flange of the right trunk drop on the quarter panel. It was brazed on and buried in bondo to "blend" it.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds That was this morning task...remove the rest of the drop and tail panel. I dug thru the bondo with a mini belt sander and then cut off the brazing. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds There was bondo covering this cobbled mess too. I used the torch to melt out the brazing and cut the remnant off in the seal gutter. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Tail panel still had pieces of the old quarter holding the new one down too low. This was all leveled with filer too. Once this was out of the way, I ground out the spot welds in the seal gutter with the mini belt sander and removed the last of the old tail panel. Forgot to take a pic of that. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds I had to grind off 1/2" from the end of the tail panel to get it to sit in the quarter, but it fit's OK now. I'll have to make a decision about the rusted quarter later. Might let the bodyman/painter deal with that...:hmmm: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds When I stopped yesterday, I thought I would come in today and prep and weld on the left inner wheel house repair section. After looking at the way the trunk drop interconnects with that and the tail panel made me stop and figure out the sequence of how this puzzle goes together. I did decide I can sneak the drop in after the quarter is on, so went ahead and prepped the section and welded it on. I left the last 8" or so loose for the drop to slip in and get welded later. It did take some hammer/dolly and bending to get all these pieces to fit snug, and I ended up with very tight gaps on all the parts. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds |
With the holiday and other things distracting me, I haven't made as much progress on this as I would have liked, but it is getting there. The panel has a bit of a fitment issue in the door pillar. The factory put way too much curve in the lowest jam area and I had to try to get some back. The curve is too tight to get the panel in our stretcher jaws, so I beat the snot out of it with hammer on dolly to stretch the metal back out. I got about half of it back and then marked where I would cut a relief slot to get the rest.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds After making the cut and drilling 103 holes to plug weld, I sprayed the bare metal with weld thru primer and was ready to make this panel part of the car. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds All clamped and drill screwed in place. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Now the fun starts, figure out a way to weld the bottom to the rocker in the window well area. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds With a few contortionist positions, I got them. Not pretty, but no one will see them. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds Whole door pillar on and cleaned up. The bottom curve came out really nice. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds On to the drip rail seam and roof. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...3Bfit%3Dbounds That's all for today. |
I have made more progress over the past couple weeks. After the door pillar and roof seam were where they needed to be, I finished welding the window channel and flange to the extension panel in the trunk.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Then final fit, prep and install of the trunk extension to lower quarter. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Then the messy piece, welding the outer wheel house section and grinding. Lots of spatter while in the wheel house to weld and covered in grinding grit while cleaning up the welds. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill At this point, the entire left side of the car has been rebuilt from the damage...https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...qeEvu9b5s%253D I then started on repairing rust on the right side. I cut out the wheel arch of the quarter and the inner wheel house. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill I got patch panels for the arch and rear quarter and cut out what I needed for the arch and attached with drill screws to prevent it from moving during welding. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Not the best pic, but the screws pull the 2 panels together tightly to keep the skim coat of filler to blend as thin as possible. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill I had 3 layers where the 2 patches met with the quarter, so I cut the arch patch 2.5 inches up from there for a butt weld to remove that layer and keep it uniform at 2. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Very pleased that I was able to pull the patches tight enough to keep the gap tight in the trunk too. ALL the gaps are much tighter than the original panels were. I will cover the seams with a skim of seam sealer and once the trunk is sprayed with proper textured paint, the seams should hide nicely. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill |
Lookin good Mitch!
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Mitch has the itch. :burnout:
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Wow! to think of all this fun I've never tried- Y'all are artists that do this stuff and glad i don"t live in rust belt anymore. Great work Mitch!
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X2!!!!
Gregg |
Work has continued, just slaking on posting. The right side patches are all welded in.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Needed to make a patch for the rust at the valance mount. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Cut that from the excess wheel arch panel. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Next was to deal with the bumper fit. The quarter was installed too low at the rear, and the corner sat right on the bumper, while the body line at the trunk lid was level. The corner was 3/8" too low, so I cut the back corner of the quarter off. I needed to move it up on the outside and keep the body lines as aligned as possible. That necessitated cutting the corner into 3 pieces. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill I had to weld in a sleeve here to fill the gap left by moving the left side down so the body line was flat. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill First 2 pieces of the pizza welded in. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Body/paint guy has something to do now...:crazy: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Refit of the bumper and I have a fairly straight line across the back and an even gap to the left side. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill It isn't perfect, but it's a lot better than what I started from...:grin: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill |
Moved on to the last rust repair on the right side. Quarter was rusted thru at the tail panel.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Cut the seal gutter from a donor piece left over from a late model Malibu we had in the front shop...:wink: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Second piece was from a left over piece from another project. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill I used the shrinker jaws to give it the correct radius to match the car. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Back to the left side to install the gutter channel. The quarter to tail panel had a big difference in opinion of fit. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill I cut out the excess and welded it back together and then down to the tail panel. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Then it was time to install the gutter. This is the same piece that was attached to the original quarter. I ran it thru the blaster cabinet and then spent some time untwisting and bending it back to the original shape to fit. It came out really nice. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill |
Damn, your good !!!
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I couldn't find a lower valance I could get in less than a couple months, so performed surgery on the damaged one.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill After I did some twisting, pounding and welding of the tears, I had it pretty good, but the weld nuts were broken off both ends. I had a couple left over from a '47 ford project. I had to grind the raised locator off to be flat for this, but they worked well. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Not bad for a mangle part. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill The right side has issues of it's own under a thick coat of filler. I'll let the bodyman deal with that...:wink: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Onto the last details. I used the cut off panel as a template to mark the cut line, cut it out and test fitted the marker. It even works...:smile: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Located the position of the trunk latch and welded that in. I had to make a major depression in the trunk pan for this, as the latch is not the same on both sides and the mount area didn't have a provision for this. It's just metal, I can bend it. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill And the LAST piece of the puzzle....I took the lock from the old deck lid and installed it. Amazingly, the trunk shuts, locks and opens again. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill |
And that concludes the rebuild of the back half...:flag:
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill I broke down all the holding clamps and removed the gauges to put my roller wheels on to turn it around and do the final tweaking and fitting of the front sheet metal. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill |
For anyone curious as to why I elected to save this car, the owner is a friend that I made 4 years ago when he asked the Chevelle Club for help putting his car together. Another guy he knew helped him take it down to the bare frame and then abandoned the project. It sat like this in his tiny, 1 car garage for a couple years before the club pointed him to me.
Andrew bought this car when he was 17 and is 43 now. He has dumped a TON of money into upgrades over the years and didn't want to lose it. Other places he asked about repairing told him to find a better body/car and swap over his parts. NO ONE was willing to rebuild this for him. This is October 3rd, 2017 https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill I borrowed the rocker mount dolly from work and pulled the car out and into his ally to get it on my trailer. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill We then loaded the engine/trans and all attaching hardware as well as the suspension in my truck. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Once at my place, I off-loaded all the parts and the car in my shop. The trunk of the car was full too. https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill Over the next 4 weeks, I and others in the club. assembled the car and got it driving. These pics are from October31, Halloween, 2017 To say he was excited then is an understatement. To say he is ecstatic that he will get his car back a second time now is like watching a 5 year old, surrounded by presents on Christmas day. I can't be more pleased to have done this for him, again...:grin: https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill |
Great thread!
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Coming into the home stretch. We knew we had a twist somewhere in the frame and after turning it around, we found the left frame horn was still down 3/8". After pushing that up where it belonged, the sheet metal fit much better. The new AMD hood is, surprisingly, well proportioned, but it is too high in the center at the front. It won't sit flush with the headlight extensions. Oh well, bodyman can fit that as he wants. All the other front metal is oem.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...%3Bcrop%3Dfill |
Kudos to you for helping Andrew with his car....again! Good things will come your way :biggthumpup:
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Quote:
What Bill said!:headbang: |
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