Some painting details of Sport Chev RS COPO
 

Trim Tag, Floor pan, and dash paint porn for those of us who are afflicted.
Just some details of Don Marr's RS COPO, which I am painting.

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Excellent work James. BC/CC or single?

James excellent representation of the underbody, upper and lower primer coverage and body color overspray. The dash suede texture fantastic. Well done!

Am I the only one wondering what the roughage looking area is in the pic at base of dash ?

It's the automix 3M beige 2 part seam sealer... it flows and doesn't tool well at all...
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I used - 3m Fast & Firm Beige on any visible seams because it tools like original.
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Heavy build asphaltic based undercoat that I make, because it is impossibly to find anything that looks correct.
Some spray tests... the heavier is lower pressure...
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The drivers door skin had been replaced with a NOS one in 1973 and was never shot with undercoat like original in the passenger door.
So it got it now...
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Inside the Trunk on the quarters.
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Looks good

Most people would be hard pressed to tell it isn't lacquer.

I lost ZERO points on paint for a customer's Warbonnet Yellow Firemist LT1 at the NCRS National show on the paint application ~ as well as the physical properties of the color/metallic content etc. However I sent multiple sprayout cards to the NCRS in order to get the paint color 100% correct, but take in mind color also changes by the way the paint is applied.

SPECIFICALLY METALLICS change by the way they are applied. Lacquer has metallic flakes in the pigment with binders etc. - the flakes do not lie flat... the are at differing angles, BC CC metallics are too flat and the new formulas are WAY heavy on metallic content.
With the warbonnet I scanned my 71 dealer album at the paint store and then reduced metallic by 20% and 30% did sprayouts boxing the color and clear for 2 coats and then a single coat of clear. After sending back and forth with the NCRS I ended up at a 27% metal flake reduction FROM WHAT THE CAMERA PICKED UP in the SCAN.
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The headlamp bezels and all jambs are unpolished - requires flattening agent in the paint to replicate... 30% flattener in the clear/color



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Nice,incredible detail James.Way to sweat the details.

Not to hi-jack my own thread with a tangent on paint...
After painting the corvette in 5 weeks last year including color sendouts with NCRS national paint judges etc - I did a bunch of paint research regarding GM lacquer application with regard to application texture (corvettes cannot be reflowed in a baking oven) this results in them being quite a bit rougher overall especially below the belt line when compared to an original metal car.

Tangent #2
Firemist paints were a cadillac color line which was manufactured by a company out of New Jersey utilizing a fine borosilicate glass flake which was more like a pearl in that it did not reflect using aluminum flakes it lumineses, allows color refraction and diffusion of light in the same color, pearls previously were natural ground mica or ground pearl. Whereas firemist were a precise manufactured product which was uniform and repeatable, BASF currently owns the company (patents trademarks) and manufactures the borosilicate flake. if I did another Ontario Orange, Warbonnet Yellow, or Steel Cities Grey car I would AT minimum get the REAL STUFF and do some spray outs.

I read these threads in awe of the knowledge of many on this site. Great stuff!

James attention to Detail is Fantastic his knowledge in the Factory process Great that is why I chose him to paint my car The people on this site are Great and I Thank Them for helping me get the car as right as possible.

There are many here, on CRG, and elsewhere who know far than I do.
Regarding these cars the part numbers, documentation, screws and fasteners etc, and I nearly always defer to the experts whenever I personally have a question.

THAT being said... I pay attention to aesthetics, and how it looks to a critical eye in the jambs, under the hood, under the dash, the paint details in the engine compartment, fender drops to the inner fender - too much paint on nearly every car you see restored, trim tags with so much paint the numbers on the tags look bloated (I tape the TT with the original paint left on it from the day the car comes in until I am going to spray the final finish on the firewall that way it can be matched at the exact time. (untaped and then immediately retaped multiple times during process)
after body work priming surface etc I go back with 400 on a 2" DA and take all visible pinch welds - the font back and the 2 pinched edges and sand then down to metal, before sealing the whole entire car...
This ensures all the nice crisp edges you see on an original car are more closely replicated on a car which has superior protection with no appearance of build up.

I have said for years that the best compliment I could ever receive is for someone to question whether my restored car was a survivor.
One I did was certified a few years afterwards - after being acquired by Rick Hendrick.
Note the comments on being a one repaint original and original floors etc - I sectioned in outer wheelhouse in the rear, sectioned in a trunk drop, 3 layers of the dash on the drivers side, completely did the entire engine compartment.
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A few more of the wheel houses - nice avg build of 1/4"-5/16"

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Beautiful work as always James. did you get my PM?

Tim

sent...

Great job James

Some shots of the body, in the booth and then some after the first pass with the polisher on the door and quarter...
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Talk about detail porn. There should be a separate thread for detail porn!

Always enjoyable to see your work James!

I seem to fall in love with every color when I am polishing out the paint...

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I like the pics of the underside. When I painted my 08A of 69 Z, I painted the back part (mostly hidden by the gas tank) a much lighter color than everything in front of the axle. I wish I had taken pictures before the paint work started. Almost all of the restored cars I see are all the same color underneath. Maybe some were painted that way from the factory. Mine was not. It transitioned from light to much darker, to almost black. But the firewall was darker than the bottom of the car, even forward of the axle.

Mine was the same way. Underside of trunk pan was light grey. From rear seat forward it was darker with the tunnel a bit lighter but still darker than the tail pan.

Polishing polishing polishing...
FWIW I use a Cyclo Orbital polisher (Boeing has used them since the 50's for polishing aircraft such as AF1) with TWIN counter rotating Orbital heads and a Geared Orbital Makita, I don't like using rotary polishers as I feel they are way too aggressive.

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The geared orbital is an incredible polisher

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