Front inner fender washer finish
 

What's the correct finish for the big round washers you see on the wheel side of the inner fender? - 69 Camaro.

The originals I have removed were always dipped in black paint... the reproductions are zinc plated, which I just dip in black paint.

Pictured here you can see on this original car, the paint pooled on the upturned edge of the washer when dipped.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4T...w1461-h1095-no

Agree, ones I have media blasted were lacquer dipped

Mike

Thanks for the info guys. I had to laugh when I read the last two posts because I had a bitch of a time getting that clod of "stuff" cleaned out of there when stripping my washers. Had I known that clod was supposed to be there, I could have saved myself some time - just never dawned on me it could be paint that was supposed to be there:dunno:
As always I appreciate the info, now I need to go back to these parts and add a clod of paint!

I have had globs of paint on rims so thick I had to use a propane torch and a scraper to remove it.
I think most all vendor supplied parts were dipped, even radiator core supports. It was quick, no primer, and did not waist paint from overspray

Mike

This is a part of the restorers conundrum. Many parts like A-arms were dipped with runs and drips. Do you reproduce that with a vat of paint or do you spray with the masked off areas where they hung the parts through the dipping process but then not get the runs and drips? Part of being "over restored" I suppose.

I put the thinned paint into an old syrup bottle with the small opening and then use it to "pour syrup on the a-arm" over a tray then recycle to paint -filtering it when I pour it back into the syrup bottle.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e2...0=w800-h593-no

They floated the paint on water. Pretty easy to duplicate....

Yes, with oil based lacquers and enamels. Don't try with water based paints!:shocked:

But really reproducing the methods the factories used is functionally impossible. Anyone care to reproduce the "red river" that Norwood used to apply the red oxide primer base?
But trying to do it best is part of the fun, correct?

IF you float it on water, you cannot use tap water, you need to use de-ionized water.

Also Floating it on water requires aLOT of paint, if you are not doing the parts for multiple cars at one time the amount of paint you would waste would be cost prohibitive.

A Short cut I tried was a quart of rust-oleum gloss black enamel, dunk and hang to drip dry like I love Lucy Chocolate style,,,,,,,pop the skim hole in center with a qtip, not sure but it did collect on the lower portion of the washer, I think this option is better than poof can and not as elaborate as a 5 gal drum of floated paint,,,,,,

Jim

Do the hang hooks leave an impression mark in the paint?
And if so,did the originals have that?

I looked at my stash yesterday, maybe a dozen cup washers. None of them had the paint drips. Most of them had the undercoating heavy on one ends, like what you'd expect from the undercoating gun aimed to one side vs. straight on to the panel. These are Chevelle pieces, and chevelles were undercoated per the aim on the rear 2/3 of the panel, covering the cup washer. Can't comment on any of the other body styles.