Engine Build: opinions....input....MCACN....boobs
 

We all know how sex sells, so I threw that in there to get the masses attention! And for you ladies who saw that and thought "I'm gonna give that guy a piece of my mind! " you're obviously a car girl since you're on this site, so I need your opinion too!:biggthumpup:

Scenario: 1968 S-Code 4spd GT Fastback, Highland Green, Saddle interior, lots of cool options, 1 of 159 according to the Marti Report. Numbers matching engine, original trans and rear. Two engine blocks are included with the car. The original numbers matching one with two hefty cracks in two cylinders, and another 390 from a later dated GT. The original engine was sleeved and repaired and is good to go. Other block checks out too. All bolt on parts except the intake, are correct for the original block.

Dilema: Want to build the motor for some power, but nothing crazy. I'd like to use Blue Thunder heads and intake and add a stroker kit. The goal is about 450hp. Easily done. Everything will appear stock. So building the motor like this, would you use the numbers block or the spare 390? You all know me....I sell everything anyway, so I'm trying to think what would be the best way to do the engine build?

So vote! Tell me your thoughts! Do everything numbers matching, or do the spare motor with no fear of tanking it at the track? :3gears: But then again..... am I really ever going to drive it before I sell it anyway?:hmmm:

There... that should make for a good Monday morning chat. Talk amongst yourselves...... and me! :laugh:

Cheers
Dave

My suggestion: (and what I did with my car that I will keep forever)

I would build the extra engine and save the original. (Especially as repairs are completed and it now checks out all good)

I still have a feeling you have an army of elves working in the toy shop.

Ryan

I'm with Ryan. Store the numbers matching engine, build and abuse the other one. Sell both when the time comes (which I imagine won't be that far in the future from what I've seen :) ).

Build the original block cause in the end you won't be keeping it. Next caretaker can leave it in, or pull it out to set it aside.

build the back up block and have a blast. Even after all of yr fancy talk about boobs (and why we don't see them when we click here), we're gonna need to see sum! ;>)) (of course suitable for the sensitive eyes that frequent our site - you know who you are.............right Eddie?!)

Build the original numbers block, you're gonna sell the car - you know you are. So get as much $$$ out of it as possible.

Push the original complete engine under the bench -- build another using an alternate block ... just my .02 worth ... TAZ

If you plan to build another FE powered car in the future than I would build both. Install the hot engine and enjoy the car, then swap it out for the original totally stock mill before you sell it. That way you have a built FE for the next project.


Jason

How long you plan on keeping the car is the point.
If you're keeping it for 5 + years,build & install the spare block,and store the original.
If you're keeping it for less then 5 years,build & install the original block to get the most @ resale.

Neither,Go LS.��

Hey! Where are the boobs? I came here for boobs! lol If it were me, I'd build a clone motor for the power and bag the numbers motor for storage. That's what I did for my 69 Camaro. I didn't want to hurt the numbers motor if I decided to side step the clutch one day. I knew I would want to play a little.

If you are just going to sell it then build the original back as close to numbers matching as you can and put it in the car. If you are not going to get it out and enjoy it then why build it with more power and not original? If you are going to keep it a while and enjoy it then build the other one with more power and save the original to sell with the car later.

These are awesome points, guys. Good things to consider and valid points either way. I guess the ultimate decision whether I keep the car or not.... and I know me....i don't:rolleyes2: I appreciate all the input! Did someone say something about boobs?:biggthumpup:

Cheers
Dave

Build the original block and put it in the car since you will be selling it once you get tired of it.

Then sell the spare block separately for added bonus cash.

You saved the original block, so it's obviously important to you. Build it, because when you sell the car, odds are the next guy is going to lose it somehow. Build it with well ported stock heads (because the casting numbers are right there in front of God and everybody to show the world if you swapped them), stroker crank (445 ish cid), Ford aluminum PI intake (looks correct, lighter) and CJ manifolds ( looks correct, better). Make the Toploader a wide ratio box if it isn't already and go.

If you should happen to blow up the original block-oh well. It's already on it's second life and 68 Mustang 390 GT buyers care about 1/10 as much about original blocks as '68 Camaro buyers do. Between the VIN and the Marti report, there just isn't any doubt in what it is.

My $.02

Yes exactly, this would be my vote.

"The original numbers matching one with two hefty cracks in two cylinders"

ESPECIALLY because of this; build the original motor. Any idea how many guys out there will not even believe the original block is repairable? If it is in the car running, there will be no doubt. WAY easier to sell a "numbers" car with everything intact. This coming from a guy who has the original 302 stashed and is driving a 69Z with a 70 spec LT-1.

This!:headbang:

Very good points, all of you..... and it's really good food for thought!! Think I'll go the original engine route. I think when the time to sell comes to sell it, that will be a bonus to add in the description. Not "Yeah... it's numbers matching, but the block is over there in the corner with a 'How to build Ford FEs' engine book on top of it!":shocked:

Thanks all for the input. That helped a lot!! Now... back to the Mustang thread! Gotta get that thing done! MCACN "X" is FAST approaching. Hmmmm....X.... is the the adult version of the show? :dunno:

Cheers

Dave

No,this is.

I'd go with the Boobs.....just sayin

My point exactly Eddie!

but the block is over there in the corner with a 'How to build Ford FEs' engine book on top of it!"

Couples small things. If your installing hard EX seats only go down about .200 deep. Cam bearing holes go in at 3Pm position. Test oil pump drive with distributor installed, make sure, with thrust plate and timing gear installed all lifters spin, many core shift problems. Crower cam saver lifters work well and only loose 5 psi of oil pressure.

:headbang:

Lets see some pictures.