Commercial parts tumbler
 

Any of you out there who are using a tumbler to clean parts, please pass along suggestions for brand and size. I am not interested in the small Eastwood type units but rather the larger ones I can put things like cylinder heads, large suspension pieces, etc in. Appreciate the suggestions.

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

Rick, I'm thinking most any part will need to be "cleaned" first by either glass beading
or meatl shot blasting......
I'm then thinking that a vibratory tumbler (drum) will "restore" the finish of the
metal to what you are looking for.
There is misc sized/shaped aluminum AND ceramic media to achieve different results.

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

Rick,
Have you looked into possibly using a wheelabrader? I have one and I do everything from heads to aluminum intakes and parts.

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

look into laboratory equipment, i bought one from a lab and was from the 50s..still works like new..its a vibratory cleaner and was used to clean circuit boards, i made a container to bolt onto it and its a vat...i can get pullies in it..and it takes 2 people to move it..there 1 1/2 inch block of steel bolted to the bottom and that gets bolted to the floor..

ive never blasted or prepared anything..once you use an abrasive it changes the surface.,,if youre gonna blast it,,why even tumble it..

the media and the type of liquid will determine how it comes out..i use green pyramids and just plain old vinegar does wonders..put a little dawn in it and its cleans everything..some CLR and it de-rusts..and simple green is amazing too..ive been tumbling for 15 years,,,i would never sell my tumbler

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

i also have one made to clean heads and intakes..i will get a pic..and a name..i got it at an auction, its an amazing piece, and is more industrial than i will ever need..i just got wrapped up in the bidding

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

Rick, look into Sweco. I use one at work for deburring parts. Get a heavy duty industrial unit, most of what gets tumbled is finished in a hour or less. I run a triangular ceramic media, water and a rust inhibitor - lube.

BIG

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

the one i bought at the auction looks a whole bunch like the link Charley posted....

so, depending on the media determines what it is..its called a scrubber here, but the same model with plastic media is a deburing/vibratory cleaner..and new they are $3k..i posted label pic so you can google it..hers a couple links

http://www.candmtopline.com/finishing-tanks/

http://www.candmtopline.com/deburring-101-videos/

http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...pslptg0apx.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psxgbl5pgk.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psowt0msj9.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps3ueloaqz.jpg

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

Thanks guys, these suggestions are pretty much what I was hoping to get. We spend hours a day at the glass bead cabinet for things like spindles, steering arms, brackets, clips, etc and it is a complete waste of time when I could be having a machine do it automatically for me while we do something more constructive. The expense does not really bother me as that could be paid for in less than a week in saved production time alone.

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

Rick, my Cost Accountant meter is in the red zone reading your post! This investment is an absolute 'no-brainer' since the payback is likely in months vs years... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

aircraft parts suppliers and manufactures use tumblers a lot.....

parts need to be clean first to get a nice finish......

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> This investment is an absolute 'no-brainer' since the payback is likely in months vs years... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] </div></div>

Nope, more like one week if I do the math and based on the number of labor hours a week! I have been procrastinating for too long and partially due to a lack of room but with as many cars as we have in the shop I need to raise productivity and lessen the number of days a week I work (currently 7). The restoration tech I hired last year has been a Godsend so now I need to start streamlining the rest of the shop not too mention kick Ann's butt a little. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif[/img] The showroom is unfortunately being packed up and sold off as we need the room. Tired of having cars stored all over the place including taking up my 3 car garage!

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

look into bake abrading.....its a machine that warms the part, then its shot with micro stainless beads...it makes alum look &quot;right&quot; and cast iron looks NOS..i have a guy i use and i run everything i can thru him but bolts the finish is incredible..for a resto shop...it can be profitable...i use him, for the cost thing..he charges me 35 bux a load and will load the machine to capacity..even tumbling, cost me time..

you load them on a big cartridge and a small crane moves it from one heat vat to the blaster vat and it rotates automatically etc.....its amazing...i will get some pics of the finish on alum

he does exhaust manifolds..clutch pedal. bumper brackets, intakes, blocks, heads, brackets pulley's, anything i bring him..and he doesnt advertise it..i think hes missing the boat..resto guys would flock to him..maybe he doesnt want that work either..i dunno

it doesnt change the surface either..no fuzzy looking metal..and every mark, machining mark stamp etc survives..best piece of machinery for a resto business for surface prep there could be..

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

I vibratory tumbler really only puts a finish on items, and deburrs. Paint takes forever to come off, grease and oil will come off in time. I like to glass bead, then tumble, on anything &quot;dirty&quot;. Carbon steel, aluminium,and some castings come out nice. Stainless is a bit of a different story, takes a bit longer with less results. Machined finishes will still need to be taped, and getting the media out can be a pain at times, it gets stuck in holes and between fins...Alternator cases are fun.

BIG

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

If I had the room, I would have LOVED something like that. I just spent the last 3 weeks cleaning and prepping all the front end and engine hardware for my '62 to have it ready for replating. Endless hours between degeasing, wire-wheeling, bead blasting, rinsing, on &amp; on.
Almost done. 31 J nuts to go.

As John Lennon said, &quot;My fingers have blisters on them&quot;

Verne

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

My conclusion is that two types of machine are required.....(I would love to see detailed pics
of Mark's abrading process)
1) Shotpeening/Wheelabrator

2) Vibratory Tumbler with media to be determined

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

Sounds interesting Mark. I look forward to seeing the pictures. Time to make a move and become more productive! I am old school and find it hard to make changes but with the current workload I need to start changing. Appreciate everyone's help.

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

i stopped by today, its a sunnen ampro shot blaster or oven and blaster...he paid $20k..heres one for 6k
http://www.jackschollerequipment.com/used-equipment.php

http://www.farrisequipment.com/cleaning-equipment.html

this is what i would have for sure if i ever went into the resto business..just running parts for friends would go along way to paying for it..if ya market it a little..but now what youd do..just what id do..blocks fit easy..

here is what my buddy has(not his)..2 pieces, not 3 he has an oven and a blaster..but it might be good to look into the tumbler too..i dont know what that is....you see the wheels etc..theres hardware that bolts the pieces to the wheel..or you wire it..its gas and 115 volt stuff..so no 3 phase needed..
http://www.allstates.com/ampro_clean...for_heads_.htm

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

these intakes came off boats..they where horrible..had black gunk on them and looked like they came off the bottom of a lake..couldnt tell they where alu,,one pontiac the other olds..i steal these for 50 or so..clean them and can get 75-80% of new..

look at the sheen...and the look..NOT FUZZY..it also closes the pores and becomes more oil/stain resistant...
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps7g98ulxq.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psd5lqyx52.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...pswg46t0no.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psv4j0kffl.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...pssz4rujde.jpg
heres my laboratory vibrator thingy..i used to bungee the cheap plastic barrel on it..it gave me 2 options
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psreg6rcse.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psraghez4i.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psaihmowbh.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...pshedawtkt.jpg
im trying to figure out what to put this in..
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psf9jmgw1e.jpg

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

Decisions, decisions. I need more room!

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

One of the companies I previously worked for had an industrial tumbler and we used it to deburr machined parts and there was almost no maintenance and changing out of media was really the only process that was needed when changing materials.

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

id sell my big one in the pics..not sure a control arm would fit in it though

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

Thanks Mark, I will check the specs and see and get back to you. If I am going to invest in one of these I will need to make sure I can get all my suspension parts into the cabinet so I can do all in house instead of subletting a portion out.

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

heres a nice video..qand a few other can be looked at

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oo0X7caeSWI

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

Thanks Mark.

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

my machine shop doesnt have a tumbler section of it..he never had it..so..not sure its mandatory, especially on the stuff you would be doing..and the extra space it would take

trust me when i say any metal that goes in comes out incredibly nice..

only thing, never run alum and iron together..its muddles the alum finish and can turn grey or have a red tint from the rust of the iron..

a rear housing fits barely..in his he did my 66 chevelle 12 bolt....i will be there next week and will measure his width and the foot print of both pieces..and ask if he has a figure on what it actually cost to run a batch.

i want one..just dont need it..but man.i want one..

Re: Commercial parts tumbler
 

I've had misc Aluminum Die Castings tumbled in Aluminum media shaped like
&quot;stars&quot; (for lack of better descrip)

Anyone know supplier of Alum &quot;Star&quot; Media

I did more research........LS industries USED TO mfg the "STAR" shaped media in its own Foundry but
no longer does.....They now sell another style of Aluminum media that is chopped/cut from alum round
rods into small pieces with sharp angled ends.
I am a believer that many parts should be shotblasted FIRST with a small sized steel shot....to better "clean"
THEN put thru Shaker/Tumbler to "Finish" the surface to the desired "LOOK"

Maybe the shaker/tumbler can do everything but would take much longer than going thru
shot blaster first......My amatuer conclusion.....

Has to be very few readers interested in this thread...............................

I have just been offered a 20 year old LS Industries shaker/tumbler located in Seattle
Small machine that may be equivalent to newer S4 (4 cubic foot liner??)

Anybody have first hand knowledge if aluminum media gives a "better" finish on Aluminum parts
AND What specific solvent/fluid/cleaner/are you using....

heres what cast iron looks like after bake abrade..I had these done for our resident 409 guy Verne....theres nothing on them..no spray no coating..they where still warm when i picked them up ( Verne even asked if they had a coating on them), they looked so good...they are ready to coat..or paint or leave alone..lol...they came out beautiful

next week ill show some alum im having done..

http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psljsmveun.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psx9d9ae3j.jpg

JM would have those flame sprayed with ALUMINUM so they wont rust
and the 1200 degree VHT paint for the cosmetic "LOOK"

Mark, How does the bake abrade and sending them through a steel shot blaster
differ in the end results ???

Mark, Do you experience yourself send stamped steel parts (vs cast iron/cast alum)
through your guys shot blaster. I sent misc parts through for 90 seconds...and they
came out perfectly clean with a SLIGHT profile on the metal.....Have not epoxy primed
yet so honestly dont know if Rick would find acceptable.

My new "place" (a different business) uses very fine shot in their steel shot blaster
but I yet to try any stamped steel parts yet..........

much better surface profile..i do wheels, bumper brackets, pullies and brackets all the time..ive done sheet metal type stuff too..any factory striation remains..and markings are untouched..works really well...if theres no pits..its ready for sealer/epoxy and paint..its that good..i have a body and paint back ground..so i understand what surface prep and condition means...on a block you still see every broach mark..

heres the best way i can describe it.

blasting leaves the surface "fuzzy". and i think its because the shape of the media and its pushed in a concentrated stream thru a nozzle..and changes the surface..looks like waves under a micro scope

this brake abrade is micro stainless beads (that wear out actually)..the heat and the length of the abrading process peens the metal surface smooth..and heres why i think its better..

the part is warm..the part is rotating and the beads are coming in every direction..not a stream, like coming thru a blast gun..when i say every direction i mean, the shot machine has an octagon shape and the deflection is major..the beads are moving in every direction..so no concentrated stream..and its mechanically thrown if i understand what i have seen, not forced thru a nozzle...but i will ask my guy and take a pic of the device

my personal experience...i can see sand blasted cast iron from across the room..it just has a look...this is just steps higher..may not be for everyone like a concours guy, but for what i do..its impressive..

ive had 2 wheels go thru a metal shot blaster and was not impressed..it was a commercial machine, and i dont know what kind of pressure or "grit"...but i had to really work them over...

since i found this process..i do every thing in it..love it,,may not be for a concours type resto but for much of whats going on in a resto..its perfect for that..i believe anyway..

but im no expert on the subject..ive just tried many things and now and i'm stuck on this..but believe me..i will go another direction if theres better...i just havent found it yet....and its dirt cheap..i mean crazy cheap for me to get it done..at times i wonder if my guy is even making money..lol,,, but he keeps taking stuff from to do..

mark, I googled "Bake Abrade" without any good result.......so could you find out a more
complete name for the machine/the process ...Thanks

I knew they weren't painted, but I was wondering if he had coated them with a light oil or something else to ward off instant oxidation (that I would have to clean off). I plan on rinsing them down with solvent anyway before covering them with POR-15 hi-temp gray. A lot of people have had excellent results with it. I've heard the VHT turns a goldish color after a few heat cycles.

They look great! Lucky for me, they were premo examples to begin with.
Verne

Verne, I mentioned VHT 1200 degree (above) ..............as several years ago I saw a picture where a JM customer posted his flame sprayed ("new skin") manifolds with the
VHT can that was returned with them...........( the flame spray assumption is my personal
opinion of what was done)

Rick Nelson, Curious if you followed up on buying a shot blaster or shaker machine...

This past week I took some misc steel brackets and fasteners (mostly bolts) down to
a LARGE commercial parts rebuilder Ive made a connection with.

They use a couple of LS branded Shakers with Alum star shaped media, to agitate and clean with. I ran several original galvanized disc brake dust shields thru the shaker and it did a very nice job of cleaning without damaging the galvanized finish....whereas any other process using abrasives would damage.

Ran misc stamped steel brackets and brake calipers thru shot blaster (very fine size ??)
in minutes cleaning everything.....Ready for primer ready for rebuild.

I'm convinced a shot blasting machine is the #1 item that saves huge amount of glass bead cabinet time.

The shaker is also a huge time saver on cleaning, restoring die cast alum finishes etc...

Last week I bought a Mr DeBurr "Shaker" machine at on line auction
located in Salt Lake City area. Working on getting it moved to Seattle
area...
Hoping to restore OE finishs to Trans Cases, OE Alum Valve Covers,
and other misc parts....
Will experiment cleaning steel misc parts also

Chuck steel shot media used to remove green sand in castings is great for restoring the finish on intake manifolds and trans main cases (rough cast),

The pressure cast aluminum side covers, tailshaft housings, steering box covers, Corvette finned or Camaro Aluminum valve covers requires something less aggressive like a plastic media.

FirstGenAddict, I have never heard the term Pressure Cast....Ive been calling Side Covers
Tail Housings etc DIE CASTINGS....

I have first hand experience running DIE CASTINGS through a SHAKER Machine with Aluminum Media with Great Results... See pics

I also have experience running SAND CASTINGS (ie Intake Manifolds through
a Shot Blasting Machine using very fine steel shot.
Also run misc metal brkts, stampings etc thru shot blaster with excellent
results

We have parts cast in Aluminum at a local foundry and when they come back they look just like an unrestored Intake or trans main case... the steel shot burnishes the surface and for lack of a better word "seals" the surface.

I imagine clear anodizing would keep things from oxidizing.