Ugh, now what?
 

I have a heavily modified '68 Camaro with a built 302 and a Muncie Transmission. Previously when cruising in 3rd or 4th gear, I could hear a deep growl coming from the flywheel/bell housing area. Car ran fine, clutch engaged and disengaged as it should and it shifted without problem; I just heard a different growling noise. So yesterday I tried to start it up, and it emitted a very loud grinding noise and didn't start. I tried just a couple short times to start it but I stopped due to the grinding noise. I have my suspicions as to what it could be but wanted to get the experts opinions from here. Appreciate any help, Mark

Re: Ugh, now what?
 

probably either a starter drive or ring gear problem.Sometimes on higher compression engines if it does not have the strarter brace the starter cocks while trying to start it and loosens the starter bolts a little, especially if it back fires. Try to loosen the 2 starter bolts and realighn it. You should also look to see if you have the shouldered knurled starter bolts.

Ugh, now what?
 

'

If you need to drive the car into the shop, rotate the engine and give the starter another try although if it works, the ring gear may be chewed at the dead spot?
Good luck!
[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]
~ Pete

Re: Ugh, now what?
 

Haven't had a chance to crawl under the car yet. Is there any way that the starter could have been stuck in the &quot;contact&quot; position? Would that have resulted in the growl that I heard while driving, or if the starter remained in contact with the flywheel, would have been a different sound? Just wondering, thanks.

Re: Ugh, now what?
 

Mark -- if the starter was engaged while engine is running, you would certainly hear it unless you're running open headers. To check alignment of the starter, pull the flywheel cover and using a .125 drill check clearance between the starter shaft and the ring gear -- that will get you close. Also, as John and Pete have indicated earlier, check the bolts and insure the knurled portion of the bolt is not worn away and the ring gear is not chewed up. TAZ

Re: Ugh, now what?
 

Mark -- here is an illustration of how to check the clearance.

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...ershimming.jpg

Re: Ugh, now what?
 

Thanks Taz.

Teeth chipped on flexplate
 

OK, found that my starter loosened up from when I fixed it previously (I guess I didn't tighten it down as much as I should have), and when I tried to start the car after a few times of fixing it, it apparently screwed up some teeth on the flywheel (Muncie trans). I got it tightened up and took it for a ride and it runs fine, but one time I started it, I heard the starter engage the chipped teeth but it has fired up numerous times.

So now I suppose I have to swap out the flywheel. Do I have to buy the entire new flywheel or can I swap out the flexplate part of the flywheel? Wasn't sure if they were manufactured with the ability to change out the flexplate or if the whole deal needs to be swapped. This all new to me, so I appreciate your thoughts and comments, thanks, Mark

Re: Teeth chipped on flexplate
 

Just replace the ring gear. knock off the old one, heat the new one with a torch and drop it on.

Re: Teeth chipped on flexplate
 

The actual ring gear is very inexpensive and simple to replace like Steve says. More of a pain to have to remove it from the engine than anything.

Re: Teeth chipped on flexplate
 

OK, you guys are the best, thanks.

Re: Teeth chipped on flexplate
 

Make sure you get the ring gear on right -- some have a beveled edge ... just put the new one on exactly like the old one came off. TAZ

Re: Teeth chipped on flexplate
 

take pic's before removal...

Re: Ugh, now what?
 

Just take a pair of vise grip pliers &amp; hold the new ring gear &amp; take a torch and go around the ring gear until it will slide on the fly wheel .... I watched an idiot set the ring gear on the flywheel &amp; try to heat it up so it would drop on needless to say it didn't work ...

Re: Ugh, now what?
 

If I were going into it that far, I'd be real tempted to just replace the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate while I was there, unless I knew for sure it was like-new.

It's all going to be out of the car for ring gear replacement anyway, and a good quality new steel flywheel and clutch assy for a SBC will run you &lt; $600-700. Maybe worth it to save yourself from doing the job twice if parts look like they are going to need replacement in a few years.

Re: Ugh, now what?
 

Yeah, I'm considering doing the entire deal since I'll be in there, as well as new headers as mine look pretty rusty and crusty. The clutch feels fine but we'll have to see. I don't drive it much so I'm going to try to drive it as-is for a while and maybe make it through season here before diving in.

Re: Ugh, now what?
 

I really like my Centerforce II clutch / RAM steel flywheel combo. Easy on the leg, and smooth engagement.

Re: Ugh, now what?
 

Thanks for the info, will check it out.