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1100837 Alternator 8K24
I have a restored 837 alternator built by Ken Bruno Motorsports listed on ebay, buy it now for $700. It is in great condition and was purchased for my Early 1969 Chevelle. email or PM any questions, thanks, Andy
837 alternator https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...ator_front.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...nator_back.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...ator_stamp.jpg |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
alternator is sold thanks sYc
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Congrats, great deal
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
I bought this alternator here and sold it to a customer. Six months later the guy I sold it to say an expert is claiming its a restamp because the 7's aren't right. I don't want to do anyone wrong but I see nothing wrong with the stamping and is was originally sold by a respected restorer. Does anyone see anything wrong with the stamping. Here are a couple for comparison:
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...8047-837_1.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...8048-837_2.jpg Thanks, Jason |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Looks OK to me. Who's the expert ?
Mike |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Jmo but looks like the vertical portion of the 7 on the first alternator is shorter than the two later pics...also seems like bottom portion of 7 in the later pics is curved, and same portion on first pic looks more like 2 separate straight segments...but maybe just nitpicking. ?
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
In my opinion, the weaker stampings makes it more legit to me.
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IMO the top stamping is not legit. All though a very good re-stamp.
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: L78steve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">IMO the top stamping is not legit. All though a very good re-stamp. </div></div>
X2 |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Original post alt is a restamp.. The 2 Jason posted are legit.
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Thank you very much for all the replies. I am working on making this right.
Jason |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
8K24 is a re-stamp. Other 2 look good to me.
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SuperNovaSS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought this alternator here and sold it to a customer. Six months later the guy I sold it to say an expert is claiming its a restamp because the 7's aren't right. I don't want to do anyone wrong but I see nothing wrong with the stamping and is was originally sold by a respected restorer. Does anyone see anything wrong with the stamping. Here are a couple for comparison:
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...8047-837_1.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...8048-837_2.jpg Thanks, Jason </div></div> To be clear in what you are asking Jason, the alternator in this post that was sold ( 1st one shown at the beggining of the post) is the one you purchased. The other 2 that you posted (pictured above) are just other examples you offer up as comparisons, correct? That is how I interpreted the question and what I based my earlier reply. Just insuring there is no vagueness or mis interpretation. |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
This is certainly educational. Now that comparison pics have been posted, I can see the slight difference between stampings. I am curious, however, on how whatever was the original stamping on the alternator in question was obliterated to allow the new stamping to be made, and still allow the base metal to appear like original? Not like I'm going into the restamp business, just wondering.
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
It is my experience with the original stamping that the beginning and end of the sequence in fonts are normally deeper as the gang stamps were rolled and this left a deeper impression of the first font (left) as well as the last fonts (right). Looking at many originals, you can clearly see the A in amperage and the G in negative come off deeper on the right sides as the stamp rolls off the case. The 7's will normally have a deeper depression at the top right corner of the leg where the vertical and horizontal lines meet and this will normally appear like the leg widens as it rolls through and off the stamping (right along the upper right on the curved leg). Kinda has a squished look to the top of the vertical leg and appears slightly wider in that pocket if you catch what I'm saying.
With all the fakes floating around, I'm off the opposite opinion where any light stamping's I see will always raise a flag for me, and then I'll really analyze the fonts. It also appears the alt in the first picture has the date code misaligned? Look at the K with the lower legs running down low and the 24 being set higher along the lower plain. Looks like an obvious restamp to me and likely one that someone thought was real but sent to Ken to be restored and later sold it. There are a lot of restamps out there, but most are easy to spot when you really learn what to look for. Even the guy from Ohio that is now rolling stamps onto unstamped cases is having a hard time recreating those original depressions and still uses incorrect fonts. Gotta be sharp to spot the fakes now as some are getting better and will trick many smart people. |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Bill,
Many restamps use original over the counter units which were not stamped at the AC Delco plant and were shipped blank. They have the original AC Delco embossed logos and correct style cases but no numbers. I bought one of these recently and they are prime candidates for the guys who are restamping numbers whenever they can find them. The obvious fakes out there will often have the cases milled down to remove the original numbers and are then restamped. These are easily spotted when you look along the top edge of that surface area as you can see a milled ridge line along the surfaces just under the mounting boss and can tell its had the surface milled down. Original cases should be level across that area and it runs flat and true right underneath that front mounting boss. There should be no ridge or drop at the base of that boss, just a level field running right underneath it. |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
How about we dont give restampers more tips on how to hone their "craft"...??..
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
so u think the 8k24 is a restamp?
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cook_dw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How about we dont give restampers more tips on how to hone their "craft"...??.. </div></div>
Yeah, enough with the , "How to Fake stuff tutorial" Send a PM. |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Here's an unstamped "over the counter" original case. Note how the surface runs flat right out under the hollowed area of the front mounting boss. If the case had the numbers milled down, there would be a ridge there as the mill cannot access the surface under the boss and when they are cut, it becomes very obvious along that spot. See second picture for suggested area to inspect.
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...-l1600%203.jpg http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/..._NKL/Blank.jpg |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Ugggggh. Why won't my links work on this site sometimes?????
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Bbbentley,
Yes, I should have been more clear with my question. I was asking about the original pictures posted in the for sale ad. I posted the other 2 pictures as comparisons. Thanks again for all the replies. Jason |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Jason u are stand up in my book [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
First and second pictures are re-stamps. Third pic. real.
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Thanks for the kind words Scott. I thought that this was the real deal. I was surprised to hear this at all, let alone over 6 months later. The fact of the matter is, if it's a restamp it shouldn't matter how long it has been.Andy, that I bought the alternator from here deserves a shout out as well as he has been extremely helpful after almost a year since the sale.
Jason |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Good integrity guys. Also upholding SYC site values.
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
I like to see an alternator with the original finish cleaned with a degreaser. I am always wary of bead blasted alternators especially the rare one's used on solid lifter cars. Easier to hide a re-stamp when blasted.
Paul |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
"The fact of the matter is, if it's a restamp it shouldn't matter how long it has been "
Jason, If you have some that believe its real and some that say its not, why assume its not ?? |
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
they worked on the preview.
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
^ It is a fine balancing act in helping the good guys but preventing restampers hone their skills. I think a couple of the detailed posts above fall into the latter category.
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Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: the427king</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jason, If you have some that believe its real and some that say its not, why assume its not ?? </div></div>
Seriously..??.. |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Seriously??? Give me a break.
The info with ground down alt cases has been well known and well documented for years with hundreds of pictures already posted on the web showing the issues with the forgeries and what they are doing to grind out old stamps. This is nothing new and does zip to assist anyone in creating one. What was offered by my earlier posts is discussed to help those to watch out for forgeries not assist them in the how to! What it may do is stop someone from buying one which has been ground down, and teaches you what not to buy! Knowing where to find the ridge helps people to see the obvious error if they can't ascertain whether the Alt is real or not. This does not help those who grind alt cases for the purpose of a restamp as there isn't any way to overcome that process since one cannot mill the case under the boss due to physical limitations of the actual process...so let me ask. How does that info being posted help the crook? The other point (discussion about fonts) has also been beaten to death on this forum, CRG, Team Camaro, Chevelle, Nova as well as all the Vette forums for decades so please, enough talk about not posting stamps, fonts and the rest of it. Fact is, this topic is discussed time and time again where people seem to want the opinions of others as to whether their stamp is legit or "is it fake" and every time this pops up, there's always a barrage of pictures being posted as we do live in the digital age. There are hundreds of threads posted for anyone to read about the fonts being wrong, right or indifferent and none of this in my opinion is going to make it any easier or harder to create a forgery. If a guy really wants to attempt one, he can buy a real one, have it in his hand to perfect the process. How do you think Picasso's are made? They certainly aren't made or perfected from looking at pictures or reading forum discussions. Truth of the matter its nearly impossible to recreate the fonts and process needed to forge a case and after decades of people trying, nobody has perfected the process and I doubt they will anytime soon. Teaching people what not to buy may help some not to pull the trigger on a suspect piece and it's obvious many people still need to learn what to look for. IMO nothing posted above is going to aid anyone in anything that's not already obvious and info that's well already VERY WELL documented. These comments about "lets not help the forgers" in my opinion is a bit of a mute point. All this info is already plastered out there and has been for decades. On the other hand, what will help combat the problem IMO is teaching people what not to buy so they can identify the forged piece which then makes it harder for a guy who is trying to sell one. That's my 2 bits on the matter, that's all. |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NorCam</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Seriously??? Give me a break.
The info with ground down alt cases has been well known and well documented for years with hundreds of pictures already posted on the web showing the issues with the forgeries and what they are doing to grind out old stamps. This is nothing new and does zip to assist anyone in creating one. What was offered by my earlier posts is discussed to help those to watch out for forgeries not assist them in the how to! What it may do is stop someone from buying one which has been ground down, and teaches you what <span style="font-weight: bold">not</span> to buy! Knowing where to find the ridge helps people to see the obvious error if they can't ascertain whether the Alt is real or not. This does not help those who grind alt cases for the purpose of a restamp as there isn't any way to overcome that process since one cannot mill the case under the boss due to physical limitations of the actual process...so let me ask. How does that info being posted help the crook? The other point (discussion about fonts) has also been <span style="font-weight: bold">beaten to death</span> on this forum, CRG, Team Camaro, Chevelle, Nova as well as <span style="font-style: italic">all the Vette forums </span>for decades so please, enough talk about not posting stamps, fonts and the rest of it. Fact is, this topic is discussed time and time again where people seem to want the opinions of others as to whether their stamp is legit or "is it fake" and every time this pops up, there's always a barrage of pictures being posted as we do live in the digital age. There are hundreds of threads posted for anyone to read about the fonts being wrong, right or indifferent and none of this in my opinion is going to make it any easier or harder to create a forgery. If a guy really wants to attempt one, he can buy a real one, have it in his hand to perfect the process. How do you think Picasso's are made? They certainly aren't made or perfected from looking at pictures or reading forum discussions. Truth of the matter its nearly impossible to recreate the fonts and process needed to forge a case and after decades of people trying, nobody has perfected the process and I doubt they will anytime soon. Teaching people <span style="font-weight: bold">what not to buy</span> may help some not to pull the trigger on a suspect piece and it's obvious many people still need to learn what to look for. IMO nothing posted above is going to aid anyone in anything that's not already obvious and info that's well already VERY WELL documented. These comments about "lets not help the forgers" in my opinion is a bit of a mute point. All this info is already plastered out there and has been for decades. On the other hand, what will help combat the problem IMO is teaching people what not to buy so they can identify the forged piece which then makes it harder for a guy who is trying to sell one. That's my 2 bits on the matter, that's all. </div></div> If all of what you said was SOOOO well documented then why are people still asking for help or buying restamp items.. Point is if you have questions about the stampings or if you have doubts about something PRIVATE MESSAGE people... You can be helpful and harmful with one swing of the key stroke.. Your comments are not needed and the simple fact is there are some "fake" stamps out there that have passed as legit and there are some people that are very talented at recreating trim tags, stampings etc.. If we as a collective group of hobbyist can keep that number to a minimum then the small timers wont get their accelerated education on what to do and not to do when replicating things. You getting butt hurt over someone asking to not post information is silly.. The more information for the masses is a double edged sword. So go ahead and post up your "experiences" and give more opportunities for crooks.. But be ready for others to ask for it to deleted or stopped.. Theres my 2 bits on the matter.. |
Re: 1100837 Alternator 8K24
Point remains
You are "not" hiding anything that's not already out there Darrell. |
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