Updated pics of my project
 

69 Z.
Late 10 10 car that actually came with the ducted hood.
Got seats put in today. No pics.
Put the subframe and front suspension on yesterday. No pics.
Put in a temp steering linkage from a 70 Nova so I can push it in and out while I detail the original steering linkage. No pics.

Worked on the undercarriage. Turns out there really is a right and left of the shock plates. Had to swap them. Finally, took some pics.

Fuel line in place (missing little clip at the back end). Went with stainless. I know it isn't original, but a worthy update. No rust. Going with stainless brake lines as well. Consider that a safety issue.

Plan to pull all the retainer clips off and detail them.

Park brake cables front and rear. My undercarriage was painted light gray in the back and got darker just ahead of the rear axle. So that is what I replicated. Color is pretty darn close. Man, it is getting dusty under there. You can even see some of my hand prints. Need to clean up the cob webs.
Took one shot showing the date code stamped in the floor pan, right rear.

Kind of cold out in the garage. Sherri and I are planning to build a workshop as soon as this thing is road worthy. Think I need a radiant heat floor. Hmm.... maybe should have built the workshop first. Sure am making a mess in the garage.

You can tell I don't know squat about photography. Just point the Nikon and hope it is smarter than me.

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

Nice job Lynn. Keep it going!

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

IT looks great Lynn... I love black Z's they look sinister.

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

James: I am sure it won't be as correct or perfect as yours. In fact, I was going to tell Stefano that the 999 point resto went out the window over the weekend. I scratched the subframe while installing fuel and brake lines.
It should however, be a lot of fun.

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Looks great,I also agree with the stainless line choice. Keep up the good work. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

All the brake lines are in, as well as the new gas tank.

My old gas tank doesn't leak, but one of my nephews deceided to help me out about 25 years ago, and tried to jack it up by the tank. Anyone need a functional tank?

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

OK, I am waiting on engine parts for two diff motors. First one that I get all the parts for gets installed. Just can't wait any longer to get this thing fired up.

In the meantime, got my fuel and brake lines all installed and clipped in place. Also got the two clips riveted to the subframe for the pos batt cable. I fubarred one of my rivets, so had to find hollow rivets. Hmm... seems none of the hardware stores carry them any more; at least not around here. But... hobby lobby has a bag of 100 for less than 2 bucks. Fubar away. Made a little tool to &quot;set&quot; the rivets and it worked great. Also dipped the top half in plasti dip to rubber coat them as originals.

Haven't seen this in print anywhere, but my original fuel line had a dark green paint stripe ID on it. So I put one on my new stainless line. Probably pretty silly for a car that will get driven, but hey, it took all of 2 minutes.

I do have a couple things I need to prep and paint, but it is too darn cold out in the garage for painting.

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

GREAT JOB on the details Lynn!

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Engine and tranny is in. Shifter is hooked up and functional, but I am missing some parts. Posted an offer to trade some extra shifter rods.

Shifter boot: Does the bottom half of the double lip at the bottom go under the floor? Make sense? Looks to me as if I can put one &quot;flap&quot; under the floor, and one over.

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Yes, the bottom &quot;Lip&quot; goes under the sheet metal and is visible from underneath the car.

Mike

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Nice firewall detail Lynn! I love it!

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

Thanks Mike. That is what I thought, and that is how I did it.

Have to admit the detail is a bit of a two edged sword. I really like getting things right, but it is easy to get so bogged down in details that I wonder if I will ever get it done.

Spent about 45 minutes this today removing and replacing the lower control arm bolts because they were in backwards according to the aim. Would they have worked OK that way? Of course, but I just couldn't leave them.

Despite all the original details, I am deviatiing quite a bit with the bolt ons. I did put some old Koni shocks in the front (the old GM shocks are pathetic). These Koni's are stiff stiff stiff, but provide more control. Also, and again, despite all the original details, I put some old S&amp;S headers on last night. If I had known what a pita they were going to be I would have put the exhaust manifolds back on. Oh well, should run better anyway.

Will try and get some engine pics this weekend. May fire it up and break in the cam tomorrow or Sun.

Engine &amp; tranny are sitting in there right now. Will install a driveshaft tomorrow.

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

Promise to post some pics later today. A bit embarrassed about the current state. Have some nice dated wires, but not sure where they are, so put some Accell yellow ones on to get it running. Most of them are about a foot too long.
Missing one of the sqare drive pipe plugs in the front of the intake, so have a big plumbing pipe plug with an adapter in it. Lots of other details way off, but easily fixed.

But... would like some advice. Here is what I built for now. 69 L46 (posted pics of the inside of this engine a while back, really pristine standard bore motor). For those not familiar, 69 L46 has the same crank rods and forged pistons as a 70 LT-1. Just used a hydraulic cam, iron manifold and Q-jet.
Built this one with an LT-1 cam (Federal Mogul), 69 Z high rise and 4053, so it will at least LOOK like the correct motor, until someone sees the HW engine code.

Rigged up the batt and radiator (no front sheet metal right now) with a big fan in front of the radiator. Had already pre oiled it. Started right up and ran for about 10 min at 3000. Would have run 15 min at 3000 (what I normally do) but it started to overheat. Fan in front of the radiator is just not moving enough air. T-stat was wide open and had plenty of water flow.

Here is my question: Is a 10 min run at 3000 long enough for the new cam and lifters? Like I said, I usually run 15 min at 3000 to insure break in.

I have a big squirrell cage fan in the attic I can try today that may move more air. Part of me wants to make sure

My other option is to just go ahead and adjust the valves, check everything over and get it ready to put on the front clip

Sorry for the long post, but it can be frustrating trying to answer a question without enough info, so I would rather err on the side of too much info.

Heading out to the garage right now just to regroup. What a mess.

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

You could always must water on the radiator with a spray bottle. The latent heat of evaporation will cool much quicker.

Jason

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

Yeah, thought about that... after the fact.

So... any camshaft gurus out there?

Is my 10 min run at 3000 good enough?

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

Got the front clip on tonight. We are expecting heavy freezing rain, possible hail, and if I wanted the bimmer in the garage, had to get the clip out of the way. Either that or put Sherri's bimmer outside. That ain't gonna happen.

I had to cut and buff the one part of the front fenders where the &quot;Camaro&quot; emblem goes before the install, because you can't access those nuts after the fender is on. I plan to hire a pro to buff the entire car after stripes are on. I wouldn't trust me at all with a high speed buffer and fresh lacquer!!!!

Nerve racking job installing the clip on a painted car. Of course, ended up with two chips (total bonehead move, long story), but both are repairable and pretty inconspicuous. Planning to wait until the front suspension is back under it and car is resting on the wheels &amp; tires to do final gap adjustments. Preliminary looks pretty good.

Took a couple of pics of the pass fender where I buffed.
Also a couple of engine pics with the temporary air filter and the temp plug wires in place. Those yellow Accel wires look cool, so I may just leave them for a while.

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Lynn...Looks great!

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[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] Nice! Thanks for the update.

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Sweet!

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Upper control arms are going back on for hopefully the last time.

There was zero wear in my upper ball joints, so I just cleaned them up and replaced the boots. Went a little nuts detailing the rivets and ball joint, but at least they shouldn't rust! I actually did the control arms about 14 years ago. Shot some synthetic grease in them (that's why it is red).

Installed NOS snubbers. I believe they are maybe 1/8 too long, but that is OK with me. Using some springs that are stiffer than stock and bring the front down about 3/4 of an inch overall, so distance from snubber to frame should be just about right. My old snubbers were hard as rocks.

As I said, I am using quite a few aftermarket bolt ons. Went with the graphite impregnated poly bushings up front. These and the springs (and the Koni adjustables) would be very easy to change out if I decide I need it 100% stock. Still have some original Z springs.

If all goes well, I will drive it to the shop this weekend to install the rest of the exhaust. I need a lift man; tired of crawling around on the floor.

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Brakes are working. Sheet metal is all fitted. Not perfect, but I am certain my gaps etc. are better than when it left the factory.

Put the front wire harness in tonight. Hmmm... getting to be a recurring theme, but I can't find the capacitor that goes on the Voltage Reg.

Anyone have one of these laying around?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1969-C...#ht_1003wt_1043

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

Now have 50 miles on the car!!!!

Guess I should put headlight in it. All the rest of the lights are in. Tail lights are old and crappy, but I will have to pull them out to paint the trunk anyway.

Other than a few glitches like stuck posi clutches(see here: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbt...hes#Post525372) and a stuck horn relay (runs the batt down pretty fast), I am very pleased overall.

Took my camera to the shop yesterday in anticipation of taking some good detail shots, but ended up sidetracked (buddy brought his just finished 68 Z by and we went for a ride, etc.) and spent all the rest of the day getting the exhaust on. Had to hurry home before dark (see above).

Will get some shots this week. Sits great. Stock rear springs, with a about a 3/4 inch drop in the front. Maybe a little less. Have the adjustable Koni's set about 80 to 90% firm so it is nice and stiff.

I had also planned on tuning it yesterday, but ran out of time. I had just eyeballed the points, set the timing by ear, and haven't even set float leves yet!!!! I don't even have a dwell meter or timing light at the house. Still it runs very well. Punched it while rolling in 2nd gear and the rear tires went up in smoke. Will get things dialed in this week.

Then all I need is stripes, a day or two wet sanding and a good buffer. Oh, and playing with wheel combinations, restoring the YH ralleys, ..... on and on and on I guess.

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Think I have the mechanicals all worked out, other than the posi clutches still being stuck. But, waiting on some big tires to put on the rear and will go do some figure 8's. Not sure if these E70 15 bias ply tires can overcome the stuck clutches.

Set it up to sit 5/8 inch lower in the front. I used 1970 big block Chevelle springs with one or two coils (can't remember which) cut off and a 3/8 hard rubber spacer under each spring. I still have my original Z springs in very good condition. They haven't been in the car since 1977. The extra firm springs along with the Koni's adjusted 80% firm make for pretty stiff, but still tolerable ride.

I have the ability to lower the rear by 1 inch in about 15 minutes without lowering blocks. I may have to when I put the 275 60 15 tires on the rear just to keep the stance the same.

Gonna start prepping for stripes today. Ordered a quart of trunk paint Fri. and am hoping for next weekend.

Then, I still need to paint the front bumper. After that, it is just cut and buff and final assy of the grill, emblems etc.

These wheels are FW's, but I have a set of YH wheels for it that still need blasted and painted. Also have a set of old school staggered Centerline auto drags to put the big tires on.

Any recs on wheel paint? I have a couple of OLD cans from Eastwood, but generally have found their products pretty much dime store quality. I know the wheels were enamal fromt the factory. Just don't know who makes the best match.

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Looking good Lynn!

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very cool [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/headbang.gif[/img]

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I'll take the 6 series, [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

Marlin. That is actually a 7. It is a Euro version, so it doesn't look as stodgy as the ones sold here with the giant bumpers.

I lowered it an inch with M tech springs, cutting off one coil. Also installed Bilstein HD struts, so it is nice and stiff for a big car. Converted it from an auto to a 5 speed, and used an M5 clutch.

It is a factory turbo car. I modified it to run 15 psi (factory is a whopping 6 psi).

I have over 306,000 miles on that car now. Cheap fun (but only if you can work on it yourself).

BTW, got stripes painted on the Z. I mean really, it isn't a Z without stripes (yes, I know you could buy them stripe delete).

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Lynn, I pulled up a few threads on the correct wheel paint on different forums and found that Argent Silver by Ditzler PPG DQE 8568 or DuPont 9296L. If I read it right, some people said that the lacquer paint used way back then didn't hold up properly on their wheels. Maybe with todays waterborne paints might be a better choice but don't forget to properly prime your wheels and take care of any rust issues first if you have them.

SAL

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

Sal. I think the wheels were the same color as the grill, except the grill was painted with lacquer and the wheels with enamel.

I have some of the PPG DQE 8568 which I used on the grill. Probably just need to go by the paint store and see what they have in an enamel equivilant.

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Re: Updated pics of my project
 

Just my opinion, and I know the statement may not be 100% technically correct, but it ain't a Z until it has stripes.

All sanded (went to 3000 grit). Having it buffed today and tomorrow. This is about the only part I have farmed out. I would hate to ruin all this work burning the paint. Besides, just color sanding it wore me out. I am getting too old for this.

The first pic is prior to the fine sanding so you can see evidence of the 1500 grit I used before spraying stripes. I will find out tomorrow evening where all my imperfections are!!!

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Looks great so far [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img]

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Dug out the ralley caps, disassembled and polished them.
Insurance co. needs a pic of the car. Figured I may as well put caps and rings on.

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Tuff aggressive road- hugging stance Lynn!

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Well, I think I got this quarter reasonably straight.

He wants to keep it one more day. This is killing me.

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Wow, nice depth.

Mike

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VERY nice my friend ! Just realized I've been here 4 years and have 9 posts.. What a slacker.

Re: Updated pics of my project
 

very nice progress.

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Well, this is cruel. I must have pissed off the car gods.

I COULD go pick up the car tonight, but it is 30 miles away and we have severe weather (including some hail) coming in as I type this. Rain is expeced <span style="font-weight: bold">all day </span>tomorrow. While I do plan to drive this car, I am not quite ready to drive in rain with possible hail coming. I am going to be down in TX Fri and part of Sat. So... I get to get it Sat nite, assuming the weather stays nice.

Gives me some time to work on a few detail items here at the house.

Oh well.