The Supercar Registry

The Supercar Registry (https://www.yenko.net/forum/index.php)

- Supercar/Musclecar Discussion (https://www.yenko.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=79)

- - 68 l78 (https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=119705)

dont need paper.its the real deal bt rear 375hp cars date codes to the car

Looks solid.
What's the complete stamped axle code/date?

I would just be nervous investing any large amounts of cash with no paperwork.Even though you know it's real it seems the only ones that sell for any decent amount have papers.It's a buyers market and buyers are demanding everything.

I actually bought this car, it was also listed on craigslist. I might start out by adding that this is my first post here. I have wanted a first gen Ralley green car for a while, & with the price I paid for a very solid car, I am thrilled, even if it was simply a small block!

Kurt S in ann arbor--You asked about the complete axle code--the upper line is "BT 1206G1", below is the letter "E". The trim tag has a build date (I think) of third week of January 1968 (It is "01 C" ). The axle mount ubolts, spring perches, brake line & ebrake attachments appear to have been untouched for decades. If the license plate is correct, the car was last driven in Oklahoma in 1984.

I did note that the orig fuel tank sending unit & the fuel line to the front of the car is approx. 3/8". The big block heater box has factory undercoat over the outside seam where it joins the firewall, & it has clearly never been removed. The body & fenders have original paint, no evidence of repaint ever. The "396" is clearly there, & clearly original. I'll be honest, even if i can never document the L78, I am still a very happy camper.

That being said, any suggestions on what to document before I disassemble this car to get it back on the road would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, John.

(By the way, I live in central Michigan)

When you pull the harrison heater core it is date coded and should be real close to the build date of the car.

Cool. Can you make out the name of the selling dealer from the emblem outline on the tail panel?

No disrespect John.It's a cool car and I believe it is real.For the money you have in it you got a great deal.I would get a documented appraisal from a well respected appraiser before the restoration.It would help if you can find a professional photographer you would take detail shots of the restoration.Close ups of anything related to a big block are good.If you replace all trim and emblems,the 396 emblems with the original retainers are gold as far as the originality of the car.
Good luck.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MEANGREEN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I actually bought this car, it was also listed on craigslist. I might start out by adding that this is my first post here. I have wanted a first gen Ralley green car for a while, & with the price I paid for a very solid car, I am thrilled, even if it was simply a small block!

Kurt S in ann arbor--You asked about the complete axle code--the upper line is "BT 1206G1", below is the letter "E". The trim tag has a build date (I think) of third week of January 1968 (It is "01 C" ). The axle mount ubolts, spring perches, brake line & ebrake attachments appear to have been untouched for decades. If the license plate is correct, the car was last driven in Oklahoma in 1984.

I did note that the orig fuel tank sending unit & the fuel line to the front of the car is approx. 3/8". The big block heater box has factory undercoat over the outside seam where it joins the firewall, & it has clearly never been removed. The body & fenders have original paint, no evidence of repaint ever. The "396" is clearly there, & clearly original. I'll be honest, even if i can never document the L78, I am still a very happy camper.

That being said, any suggestions on what to document before I disassemble this car to get it back on the road would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, John.

(By the way, I live in central Michigan)
</div></div>

Take a bunch of pics of the stuff you just mentioned. You can even post them in this thread. I love Rally Green.

Congrats on your new purchase! There's a ton of people here who can assist you as you move further along with the resto.

[quote=ZiggyL78]No paper.No deal. paper, paper, paper I am with Trader 1. Unrestored cars will give you the right clues.

Thanks for the input & helpful suggestions. I can not make out the name on the sticker. I took 100-150 high def pictures so far, I did run into an oddity. The fender portion of the side stripes is painted on, the doors have decals. I've restored lots of mopars, I've never seen that. 1 Camaro resto book I bought this weekend says that on Camaros, the factory sometimes did that. Any input from members here?

----Decal doors are correct......Bill S

If you can authenticate the 6K tach as original, that would be strong evidence of L78.

Beat me to that unreal!

www.stencilsandstripes.com, I co-founded the company that was the first to have reproduction rights from General Motors for stripe kits. All kits are reproduced from NOS kits. My friend Ralph who now owns it and co founded it with me in the 70's purchased a 68 L78 Camaro in 1969, which I now own.Either of us are more than happy to help where we can. Chris

I inspected the fender stripes again, & found that the rear portion behind wheel opening is tape, but the front part of stripe is paint.
On the tach, the cluster looks like it has been untouched, I'll get lots of pics while disassembling. I assume its date coded like most of the other parts on this car?
Last, would there be any advantage to my trailering it to someone in lower Michigan area who is a noted "expert" to document before I proceed with disassembly?
Thanks again for all the helpful advise, & I'll definitely be asking for specific help from many of you who've offered as I proceed.

If you need help or photos of an unrestored Rally Green 375 car I would be happy to help. Darrell

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...s/DSC01607.jpg

GORGEOUS car! Will be in touch, thanks!

I love 68's and had a numbers matching 68 RS/SS 396, however since they are extremely difficult to document the stronger the reputation of the authenticator the better off you will be in the end.
Given this, I would call my chosen firm and inquire as to what state of (dis)assembly they would prefer the car for the inspection. What ever you spend now to authenticate this car will pay you back 10 times over when the it is sold... Even if you "never plan on selling it"

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cook_dw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you need help or photos of an unrestored Rally Green 375 car I would be happy to help. Darrell

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...s/DSC01607.jpg </div></div>
Identical to the one Im restoring right now. Love that Rallye Green

I have finally caught up a bunch of stuff I had to do, I have sent an email to Jerry MacNeish to get a price on documentation. Any thoughts/other recommendations? Thanks