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Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
I was at the shop today restoring some hardware for the beater and a friend came along for some sunday bench racing, to my surprise he had never seen the simple process I was doing. This gave me a idea on a how to thread. Now I know alot of you out there know how to do this but I thought some might like to see how to and be able to do it themselves.
This is a simple Body Bolt Restoration it can be done for next to nothing. A few items are needed a propane torch, some motor oil, pliers, and a way to clean the bolts, you can use a wire wheel bead blast etc but they need to be clean. Remember to check the threads! here are the items needed. http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ltresto004.jpg This is our example bolt in need of a restoration. http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ltresto015.jpg The first step is going to be cleaning the bolt you need to do a good job at this, it can be done a number of ways, I chose to bead blast them, remember to clean the threads. http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ltresto017.jpg |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
The next step is going to be heating the bolt, I like to use a propane torch, a actual cutting torch will heat way too fast and create a "gun blueing effect" heat the bolt to a goldish color first.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ltresto020.jpg Next you want to soak the bolt in the oil. http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ltresto022.jpg |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
Remove the bolt from the oil after about 30-45 seconds.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ltresto023.jpg At this point I like to do the whole heating process over without removing the oil. http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ltresto027.jpg |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
After you see the oil dissipate resoak the bolt for the last time in the oil.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ltresto029.jpg Remove the bolt after 30-45 seconds. http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ltresto031.jpg |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
Let the bolt cool on its own, this is a before and after.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ltresto010.jpg This a comparison with a new bolt out of the box, "upper bolt" and our restored original bolt lower. http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ltresto013.jpg |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
For around $4.00 and 2-3 hours on the weekend, you can easily restore your underhood body hardware. I thought this type of post might be informative to some, A "How To Post" if this is the kind of stuff you like please chime in, if not well I just wont do it again.....
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
I think it's a great idea. Do more, do more!!!
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
Good info. Probably best to use the propane torch vs. the oxy/acetylene? If you overheat the bolts could you possibly compromise the strength? https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/dunno.gif
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
These bolts are not torqued very high. They are just compressing the body mount rubbers. They really are not getting much stress at all considering their number and size.
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
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Good info. Probably best to use the propane torch vs. the oxy/acetylene? If you overheat the bolts could you possibly compromise the strength? https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/dunno.gif [/ QUOTE ] Oxygen-Acetylene will heat the bolt quite fast, you would anneal it greatly. (Kinda like sitting in the sun in the desert) the pores in the skin will be very open, also the burn from the torch will effect the finish, Hardness will depend on curing. With propane you will anneal it enough to pull oil in for the finish needed, If you were to rockwell test it, it would be just slightly harder than original using this method. |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
Great thread! I was just going to redo my bolts, again! I glass bead and paint mine. Cast blast was OK, but not perfect. I was going to go with flat black next, but am going with this method now! thanks!
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
Looks like a good idea....it would be helpful when cleaning up driver/survivor components to keep an older patina. I will try this on the next batch of hardware.
wilma |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
I agree with you on these particular bolts Keith. I just wondered about other bolts in 'hi stress' applications.
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
Good post Jeffrey. Thanks! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif
How do your bolts (using yr process) stand up to moisture in the air. For example, does the absorption of the oil create a barrier or some how improve protection of the bolt from rust? |
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Good post Jeffrey. Thanks! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif How do your bolts (using yr process) stand up to moisture in the air. For example, does the absorption of the oil create a barrier or some how improve protection of the bolt from rust? [/ QUOTE ] Sam it seems to hold off the eliments quite well, Now I do not subject any of my cars to harsh weather, (I save that for the wifes car) https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif I just sold a 442 of mine I had done 4 years ago and the hardware still looked great, but if one starts to see a little wear the process can be done with little effort, I usually keep a good hand of new hardware around but the original is much better with correct marking and washer size, it seems on the new stuff the washer is a bit on the small side for the 3/8-16 bolts. It really is a good detailing trick especially when doing a survivour look. (survivour is my new non trademark or rights reserved way of things...) |
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(survivo u r is my new non trademark or rights reserved way of things...) [/ QUOTE ] You'll still piss the 'vette dudes off! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/wink.gif |
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You'll still piss the 'vette dudes off! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/wink.gif [/ QUOTE ] https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/hmmm.gif Are you saying that's a bad thing? https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/dunno.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
I wanted to suggest that Manganese Phosphate plating is/was the correct finish for many fasteners........
Below are comments from Jeff Betz..........known Camaro restorer, Carlisle judge, former GM and current Chysler engineer at eng mfg plant in metro Detroit.............. I am certain that Zinc Phosphate is not correct for the bolts. I'm also certain that the manganese phos is correct! I looked up the plating spec on bolts and believe me there are only 3 major suppliers of bolts: Ring Screw (Textron), Cold Heading, and I can't remember the other one. We still deal with them all here and nothing has changed. To each their own...so I won't tell someone how to restore their car. I will always give my opinion if asked, and will always reveal my restoration method or a better one if I know one. Good luck to your friend with the zinc plating on the fasteners. Just another side note, I believe it would be okay to dock points off a diamond car for having painted fasteners, a practice that I told you some of the "top" restorers do use. Actually zinc phosphate is an excellent plating to use on something before you paint it. It is a recommended plating to be used under painted parts. I did my door hinges in the zinc phos before I put them on the car and painted them of course. It is an excellent "primer". As far as your bolts coming out too dark? Not sure. I know some of mine are pretty dark. Your bellcrank...remember, different amounts of iron and densities of metal will plate different. The bellcrank is a tube (drawn or stamped and welded) with two stamped brackets. Notice the tube has less pores than the brackets welded on each end. That all factors in to how well they will plate. I just use one of those camping type cooktops with two propane burners. Coleman makes it. Works great. Fasteners and items that are to be somewhat "black" get the manganese phos and the latches and such get the "grey" zinc phosphate. Nice thing is different metals plate different shades of the stuff, so it doesn't all look the exact same. MANY people have found that BoeShield T-9 works very well as a rust inhibitor. Any process will need periodic maintennace to keep fresh look. Below is address for chemical supplier PALMETTO Enterprises 2311 A Old Parker Road Greenville,SC 29609 864 246 3836 |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
Hey Jeff, I am sending a box of stuff your way!! Thanks for the info. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif Sam
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Hey Jeff, I am sending a box of stuff your way!! Thanks for the info. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif Sam [/ QUOTE ] Any time Sam https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif I will be sure not to set it by the bar https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif now where did I put that thing https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif |
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
Here's another idea on this subject...I don't know how hot the propane torch makes the bolts..but, why couldn't you just "bake" them in a 400* oven for a half hour or so and then do the oil bath....if opening up the pores in the metal is the goal then this should work....you could also do a bunch at one time....just an idea.
ps...don't use your wife's good roasting pan https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...emlins/eek.gif |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
In a conventional oven that will heat the metal too slow, metal will hold water, when it heats slow you can see the moisture pull from it, in a slow heat process it will get a golden glow from rusting during the slow heat process, changing the finish too a more brown color, also it might be hard to keep up on the oil process without the bolts cooling. The process posted is the nicest hardest finish process I have found, a repeat is sometimes needed for the correct shade and practice helps, When set up to do a multitude of bolts it only requires a small amout of time in the heat and oil process. This is by no means a new process I learned this in Metals class 25 years ago for hardening steel I always liked the finish you could get and I use it for a multitude of things.
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
I told karen to turn off the oven https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ins/tongue.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ins/tongue.gif
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
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I told karen to turn off the oven https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ins/tongue.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ins/tongue.gif [/ QUOTE ] https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/haha.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/haha.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/haha.gif |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
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I told karen to turn off the oven https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ins/tongue.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ins/tongue.gif [/ QUOTE ] Yeah...but don't put them in the microwave either Tom! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
My wife came home early one time and caught me phosphating some bolts on the kitchen stove. Without breaking stride, as she walked through the kitchen, she announced, "You know you're a redneck when you cook bolts on the kitchen stove!"
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
I was degreasing and derusting bolts on the granite counters once... once
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
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My wife came home early one time and caught me phosphating some bolts on the kitchen stove. Without breaking stride, as she walked through the kitchen, she announced, "You know you're a redneck when you cook bolts on the kitchen stove!" [/ QUOTE ] Maybe she didn't know you knew how to cook https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/smirk.gif |
Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
Manganese(or Zinc)Phosphate coating is small iron phosphate crystals on the surface, and will be dark or light grey color. An oil dip is done after the phosphate crystals grow by chemical reaction. The purpose of the oil is to saturate the coating and provide vastly increased corrosion protection. Phosphate alone is almost no corrosion resistance, but is crucial to help the oil stay on the fastener. This is a barrier coating to prevent moisture form getting to the steel. The phosphate plus oil is better than either phosphate or oil alone, they help make each other work better. Phosphate is cheap.
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Re: Body Bolt Resto A simple How To
I know you can get a phosphating kit from year one. Not sure if it's the same thing you guys are already doing?
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