When you get the radiator out post more pics of it. Looks interesting.

I got it out already. I'll take some pictures tomorrow. Be forewarned, it's a good example of why I need to learn how to slow down and pay attention. It's probably gonna need to be re-cored after the utterly stupid way I removed the electric fan my dad and I (read- Dad) put on as a bandaid for the overheating years ago.

(Admittedly I was planning on having it recored anyway- I realize the timing and carb not being set right is probably a large part of why it overheated even before the cam and lifters started going away, but if I can add a little insurance I'd sure like to. That, or an aluminum one I'll just paint black, since a quick Google shows recoring a brass/copper rad is actually just as, if not more, expensive these days)

If you decide to recore, Superior in Mt Clemens is as good as it gets.

Tony
Your absolutely correct Superior has done many radiators for me and never had any issues!

Do y'all have a basic price range I can expect from Superior? Just curious, be nice to already have that in my back pocket, y'know

(I have this intense dislike of making phone calls, too. Call it being a part of Gen Z I guess- I can talk in person, I can text all day, but I do not like calling people/places)

Quick question- is there anything specific I'm looking for on the rad as far as pictures? Other than the HARRISON lettering I didn't see any stampings on it. It's got the internal trans cooler so it's been swapped since to the best of my knowledge (including the clutch pedal still in it) the car was originally a 4 speed.

Harrison Radiator...
 

Assuming it is a factory big block unit...each tank will have a 2 letter code which will indicate application. If the tag is intact, that will offer more info. There will also be a letter code on the larger tank which indicates the month of production.

You can learn more here; http://www.camaros.org/coolingsystems.shtml

-wilma

I don't know why I didn't think to check CRG. D'oh! Will report back with any findings.

Tags are long gone.

Also, is this the right fan for a big block car? It's 7 blades but to my uninformed eye they look awful short. Maybe smaller= faster, I don't know.

Radiator and fan blade...
 

That fan blade is not a Chevy item as far as I know. The 68 BB had a short water pump and depending on HP rating or options like A/C you could have a fixed 4 blade or a clutch fan with 5 blades. The 4 blade fan would require a spacer to position it properly inside the shroud.

This info is well presented on the CRG page I sent you. Of course, you can adapt to fit your needs...more horsepower usually increases the need for proper cooling system components.

-wilma

Fan is an aftermarket flex fan. Moves a lot of air, but must howl like the devil above about 3,000 rpm.
In your second pic, 4th and 5th rows down under the upper hose neck, there are letters stamped in the tank. Looks like there are some on the other side too, but a little too dirty to make out in the pic.

I wonder if that's playing into the overheating issues that have plagued this car for 20 years. The shroud looks kinda funky too


I see 1969s had a 7 blade fan but the blades look much bigger and more curved than whatever the heck is on the car. I might snag one of those for it. I see they're reproduced and, well, date coded NOS stuff isn't exactly required for this car.

Good eye! Stamped I L so it very well could be the original radiator for the car. That fan will be replaced with an OE style. I don't know what brand is on it but I've heard enough stories about the old Flex-A-Lite fans breaking apart that I simply don't trust flex fans.

Unfortunately, I might be blind but I see no numbers on the fan shroud.

Somehow, over the past couple years, I've managed to acquire 4-5, 7 blade fans and only need 3. I'll see if I can find them all and figure out one you can have. They do require the thermostat/viscous clutch and most of them have one, but may need replacing.

Need to update- Left side tank is I L. Right side is X I which doesn't show up on the CRG list. So if I understand this right (probably not) it was recored at some point and in order to make it work with the TH400 they swapped the right side tank to something else? If that's a thing that can be done, I really don't know. Unless Harrison/GM used the I L coded tanks on other radiators besides Camaros.

I find the IL tanks on Chevelles too but the X code tank may have come from a full size car and yes, these tanks are very interchangeable, as long as the core is the correct width for the tank.


The fan, if it is too small a diameter to fill the shroud, it won't be effective and in the couple pics we see, it has been noted that it isn't far enough in the shroud. It is mounted directly to the pulley and it should have a 3/4 to 1" spacer behind it.



What is the diameter of the fan shroud opening ? That will determine the fan blade size.
I'm having eye surgery tomorrow, so I'll look thru my fans later this week.

Thanks for the info! It's a 19 or 19.5 inch opening if I measured it right.

The motor is out! It actually wasn't that hard, either. I'd done a good deal of prep work. Of course the driver's header was a pain to work around getting it back in is gonna suuuuuck, but other wise, not too bad. Still took my buddy and I until after 2 AM to get it done, having started at 6 PM. Nothing got broken, no (more, I did saw off a heater hose a while back because it annoyed me lol) more hoses had to be cut, it was.... bliss, compared to some of the crap cans I'm used to working on.

Couple of things to note: The casting number is 3999289, so as the TRX on the front pad indicates, 2 bolt 454 block

Two- The headers still have a couple of very small traces of white paint on them. My OCD loves white headers, and therefore they will get a coat of VHT before they go back on (I realize having them coated would be better, but since I'm going to have to break in a cam, I think VHT for the first season after the rebuild, then pull the headers for a winter project and send em out)

Three- Can anyone ID the headers? Just for pure curiosity's sake

Headers look like early Hedman. Hooker always welds the collector flange on, usually with one of the bolt ears facing straight down into the pavement.

The only brand I'm aware of that came white were Appliance and they would need to date back to when the car was new to 6-7 years old and have a square collector flange.
They would stand out in white.

If you left the spark plugs in while removing the engine, I'm surprised you got it out without braking a plug on those headers. Damned tight fit.

When you get a chance, take a picture of the outer side of the passenger side header. That might help identify them.

Kurt

Both photos are of the passenger side. I have another picture of it here.

@Too Many Projects: We did manage to get it out with the plugs still in. What helped was we had the car on stands and were able to pull the header away and down (but not out) before pulling the engine up.

Sorry, I meant drivers side.
:stupid:

The reason I say that is…..my headers are Hooker Competition Headers. The reason I know, even though the tag's missing, is because the holes are there where the rivets were.

Kurt

And that is an easier method of re-assembly, if you are comfortable with the car that high on stands. Leave or take the oil filter off as well as the plugs and the header will slide right up in place from underneath.

That's probably what'll happen. I'll likely lower the engine in with the car on the ground, and then jack it up to get everything underneath buttoned up and the headers on.

I'll nab some pictures of the other header tonight or tomorrow.

Here's the driver's side header. Also, the very green torque converter. I don't know if it's a stocker or how to even tell that.

Those headers should be easy to get in. I've got the Hooker Super Comp 2 1/8 inch headers and they are a little more challenging. I've had them off and on about 20 times.

That converter color looks like Jasper green. If so, it's a stocker

Ironically enough, a post on this very forum has answered my header question!

https://www.yenko.net/forum/showpost...1&postcount=12

They're Blackjack headers. Good to know!

Nice find !! That aluminum coating is very distinctive. I actually have a pair of these for my '70 Chevelle and wasn't sure who made them.

I don't believe mine had the aluminum coating. Looked like plain old white paint to me. Which I think looks cooler anyway. Like I said, I think I'll use regular header paint for now, and then after the engine's broken in and I've had a season of driving it, I'll pull the headers back out and send 'em to JetHot or someone for a proper coating of white.

Keep up the good work.I'm enjoying following your progress!

Haven't touched it since pulling the motor. My cheapo HF engine stand doesn't work with the 454- the holes don't line up right and I really don't trust it to hold this thing up.

BUT! I did find out a little more about the car. That converter is a Vega converter. Old school budget trick! Probably going to replace it eventually since they seem to be hit or miss behind a 500hp big block. I was also told the original engine and transmission were sold off so they're probably out there somewhere. I have no desire to purchase them for the car (well, okay, maybe I do- but I'm out of space and money), but if anyone has a 396 or Muncie 4 speed with the partial VIN 399642, you've got my car's original parts.

The fella who built it also said he'd gladly help rebuild it so that'll be cool! I told him I want it set up pretty much as he had it back in the day. I'd put his name out, but I don't know how he'd feel about it. For what it's worth, he's a ProMod racer (and Detroit area guys might know exactly who I'm talking about since Autorama is this weekend)

What I'm thinking is sell my Ram in the spring, daily my Foxbody until I find a cheap beater, and use the money from the Ram to build either this car, or my F-150 (F-150's cheaper to insure, and although it's scrap to 98% of people, I'm psychotically devoted to it- it has tremendous sentimental value, almost as much as the Camaro and Mustang do- it used to be dad's truck. Dad is still shaking his head at me for buying the rustbucket back but the heart wants what the heart wants)
So, not much to report, but I do like learning more about it.

Can anyone recommend a good engine stand for the 454? My cheapo HF one I got from Dad did not want to handle the weight, at all. I'm starting a job at Ford this coming week so hopefully I'll be able to jump into the car this winter. The engine's been sitting next to the car in a tire with the chain hooked to the intake all year.

Oh, none of what I said happened, by the way. Ram is still the daily, F-150 still has no floors. Oops. I want that truck to at least move backwards and forwards by the end of September (30 years to the day it rolled off the line) and then jump all in on the Camaro after.

Nice car

Harbor Freight has a nice HD stand rated for 2,000#. Basically the same as their engine hoist, with spread front legs for stability. The front legs also fold up for a smaller foot print when not in use. Not cheap, but lower price than any other I saw that would compare.
I will say, whoever put the model together for the pics has the front legs on the opposite sides they should be on, as it is severely toed out !! :grin:

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...and-59200.html
https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...2F59200_W3.jpg

That's within a range I'm comfortable with! Thanks!

Got a stand for free from one of my best friends. His dad's moving back down south and didn't want to take it with him so it became a birthday present for me. I'm still hoping to tear down and rebuild over the winter. Please excuse the mess in the garage. As soon as this car runs again, I'm going to completely clean everything.

Pulled the pan off tonight. I could feel the grit in the bottom of it. I'm very glad I listened to the folks on here and my friends outside of here who told me it needed to come out of the car. Might check one of the bearings tomorrow just to see how bad they're mangled. I know it needs a set regardless (and even if it somehow didn't. I see no reason not to do it).

May as well accept that the engine needs to come down to bare block, tank cleaned and start from there. That "grit" can hide all over in the block, especially oil passages and come back to haunt you.
How is the new job going ? I assembled Fords for a year too, waaaay back in '72/73.
But I did drive a Chevrolet to work...:biggthumpup:

Job's going okay. It's rough on the body but the pay's good. Call me hardheaded but I really, really don't want to go to a bare block. Afraid I'll never get the damn thing back together if I go that far. Who knows, I'll probably end up doing it.

Good luck,hope it goes well for you!