Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Here are some old pieces of Corvette ignition shielding I had laying around... check out how nice it works...
https://www.yenko.net/photos/data/500/PICT0226.JPG

https://www.yenko.net/photos/data/500/PICT0221.JPG


https://www.yenko.net/photos/data/500/PICT0219.JPG

https://www.yenko.net/photos/data/500..._29_06_009.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

[ QUOTE ]
I found the exact color for the 70 and up GM jack bases and jack mechanisms: judge for yourself:

It's Duplicolor DE 1609 Chevrolet Blue Engine Enamel

[/ QUOTE ]


Hmmmmmm, maybe you've also solved the mystery of why Chevy all of a sudden in the mid-70's switched from orange to blue on engine paints....

(....dropping in on a conversation in GM purchasing dept in mid-70's....) "I told you to order 500 gallons of blue paint for jack bases and you ordered 500,000 gallons! Now what are we gonna do with all that extra paint?" https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I've been playing around with the derusting liquid again. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif This is what it did for two rusty spark control solenoids in my parts bin. This was after a two day soaking.

Here's the before:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1060002.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1060001.jpg

and the after:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1100017.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1100018.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1100021.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Great examples............Are we having "Fun" yet???? https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif

Ken https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/flag.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

ENOCH just stripped the drivers side fender on the T/A and the he found this. It looks like the result of a tire getting loose and caving in the fender. The metal is extemely overworked, brittle, and stretched and the best bet according to ENOCH is to weld in a section from another fender that would go from the lower body line to the upper body line. Does anyone have a regular 70 to 81 Firebird fender that is wrecked in the front that would be good as a donor? I dont need a whole fender and the shipping costs are crazy for a complete one. I am open to suggestions.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1140001.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Here's the drivers door getting the NOS doorskin fitted and tack welded. A lot of hammering and welding going on here in order to make the original factory doorskin fit the original factory door!

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1140005.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1140007.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Steve,

I checked Desert Valley Auto Parts, and they have a slew of firebirds in the yard. If you contact them and they are willing to cut the bottom off the fender you need, let me know and I can pick it up and get it shipped for you, or if they will only sell a full fender, we can find one that is damaged in front and I can cut it down and get it shipped. Let me know if you want to go that route. Here is a link to the search page where you can check the Firebirds they have in the yard and see pics of them:

http://www.dvautoparts.com/

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I called them and they will look for a wrecked fender but normally they will only sell a complete one for $300. That's a bit steep for something I'm going to cut and use only a 1/4 of.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Steve;

Check your PM's

Eric

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Eric, thanks for the heads up. I remember reading about your experience with them. Looks like I will search elsewhere for a half a fender.

Camaroinaz, I sincerely appreciate the offer of help but it looks like those guys have a not so hot reputation for accuracy in advertising.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Steve - Not a problem. If you prefer, I can actually go to the yard and see what they have. It is only about 20 minutes away from where I am at. I can check over the fenders and pick the best one, see what the price would be and go from there. I had not heard about problems with them, as they have been okay to deal with in person. Let me know if you want me to take a look at what they have in person.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

This thread's been kind of quiet lately; anything new going on with the TA Steve?

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I've really been waiting for my body man to move forward on the front sheet metal so I can get the rest of the body to him. We have been looking for a donor driver's side fender for that patch panel section we need, to no avail so far. I would really like to get the car on the road this year.

I'm running out of things I can do to the car at this point. I spent the past few weeks identifying and locating the correct ECS (Electronic Spark Control) temperature sender for the passenger side cylinder head. With some help from the guys at the Performance Years forum I was able to identify the part as AC Delco #6490384. 1972 was a strange year as they used the 3 prong sender unit but only connected two of the three prongs to the wiring harness. I ended up lucking into one of these senders on ebay. I found an NOS one for $30 and snapped it right up.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...68a/tcsNOS.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P2160005.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

My bodyman (ENOCH) was listening. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif He emailed me these photos of the progress on the hood, which he and his crew stripped by hand the last few days. Luckily it is very straight and rust free. Other than a possible warpage issue from the original carb/engine bay fire it seems to have survived the ordeal relatively unscathed. We're still looking for a driver's side fender to cut up for a patch panel in case anyone has one from a 70 to 81 Firebird laying around.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...DSCN000112.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...DSCN000214.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

More progress from ENOCH's shop. He has the passenger fender, hood and door in epoxy primer as of this afternoon. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...8a/022807a.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...8a/022807b.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...8a/022807c.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...8a/022807d.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...8a/022807e.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...8a/022807f.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...8a/022807g.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I have a fender, not sure what side though. I'll let you know.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Steve,

Pardon my ignorance, but why would they strip the underside of the hood by hand? That seems to me like it would be incredibly labor intensive, as compared to some form of blasting or chemical stripping.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Chemical/media stripping will dissolve/destroy all the original sealer that is between the two panels. There is no way to replace that sealer. In a double panel piece of body work like a hood, the lack of support that removing the sealer creates will result in the panels vibrating against each other and eventually buckling/denting/dinging up the top painted surface.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Plastic blasting will destroy the sealer that quickly?

Jason

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I have had several of these T/A hoods done with plastic media with no issues at all. I cant imagine the time it would take to strip that. No finger tips left either...lol.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

It was a really nice California hood, no rust or scale, just some charcoaled factory paint from the carb fire. ENOCH couldn't find a blaster he trusted: He gave some small parts from the car to a guy who ended up using some material a little too aggresive, so he decided to stick with the old tried and true.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Looks like the got the job done. That's what matters.


Jason

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Steve, have you checked out craigslist? I found this ad in hudson county.

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/pts/272030490.html

email this posting to a friend

camaro doors and fenders - $1

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reply to: [email protected]
Date: 2007-02-01, 7:45PM EST


i have left and right doors solid off a 80 camaro 175 each, i have 2 front fenders for standard camaro 78-81 75 each, 2 front fenders for z28 78-81 fenders are there but need little work, i also have a nose for 78-81 75 each(rubber)

http://d.im.craigslist.org/Lc/NF/Fcr...YEdgJOhCqx.jpg


Location: hudson county
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Unfortunately the Camaro has different body/fender lines and a lower rocker line that the Firebirds dont have. Thanks for keeping an eye out, though Kevin.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I will keep looking https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/smile.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Here's the bottom of the hood and the passenger door in complete primer now.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...8a/030107a.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...8a/030107b.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Maybe this one is willing to talk https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/smile.gif

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1977-PONT...tem300086187322

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I ended up finding a stamped patch panel on ebay for $45. It should provide the needed donor section to repair the original fender. Hopefully, ENOCH will get me some photos to post in the near future.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Here's the most recent acquisition for the project: an NOS rear tail panel. These things were made out of one giant piece of injection-molded plastic, about five feet wide. They were extrememly fragile and always broke at the outer section where it narrows down to the thin outer extensions. This was because people tried to remove them without unbolting the two outer studs and eventually found out the hard way after they broke it into three pieces.

The original one from my car had been repaired (badly). It looked fine from the outside but from the inside you could see that it had a hacksaw blade fiberglassed onto the back to support the broken outer extension on one side. (Nice professional repair).

I found this one on ebay. Cost about $280 (actually a bargain since the only other one I've ever seen up for sale, the guy is trying to sell for $750!)

This one was stored up in the seller's attic for about 20 years. He had primed the outside but from the back you can see it was never installed: the mounting studs have never had a nut turned on them.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P3310005.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P3310006.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P3310008.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I posted the same photos of the tail panel on the Performance years website and the guys there indicated that the primer on the outside was factory applied. This was exactly how they came out of the box back in the 1970's. So I guess I got more of a bargain than I bargained for. It hasn't been altered in any way since it was left the dealer parts counter. Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

As the great John "Hannibal" Smith said, Don't you love it when a plan comes together?! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Well, here we are home during the Nor-Easter and wondering what I can do while the water rises. I have been trying to figure out a way to remove all the black spraybomb overspray that is on the orginal honeycomb grills for the T/A. So I ended up doing a little websurfing of the term "plastic paint stripping" and wound up finding a model car website where they compared a variety of different techniques for removing paint from plastic models. We have all heard of the old "Easy Off" oven cleaner being used for paint stripping but the fumes are noxious and the results are very slow and require scrubbing which damages the plastic. Their new favorite plastic paint stripping technique now employs the super-degreaser formerly known as "Castrol Super Clean". I guess they sold the formula off because it's now just called "Super Clean." Well, anyway here is the before photo of one of the grills all covered in black spray paint:

Here's the top:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P4150001.jpg

and the bottom:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P4150003.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I bought two 2-1/2 gallon jugs of the stuff from my local autoparts store. -cost about $50. I initially tested it in a three gallon pail for half an hour and here is the result:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P4160002.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P4160004.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

This stuff is safe on the plastic and only attacks the paint's ability to stick to the underlying layer. According to the modelers it can be used on clear plastic model car windshields with no damage to the clear plastic. So I guess it would be fine for gauges and other similar clear automotive plastics. Make sure you use rubber gloves when using this stuff as it will remove all the oils from your skin (or else your hands will wind up looking like Abe Simpson's).

Here is a photo after about three hours of soaking, once I got a bigger tub and fully submerged the grill. The paint just seems to break up and flake away with just a little persuading from a soft plastic bristle brush. (Do not use metal bristles as they will scratch the plastic!)

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P4160006.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Here is the link to the model car website that tested the various methods of plastic paint stripping including brake fluid(!), Easy Off Oven Cleaner, specialized model car paint strippers and Super Clean:

http://www.bonediggers.com/1-3/strip/strip.html

Once all the stripping is done make sure you flush the entire object in cold water till it is squeaky clean. This stuff tends to leave a slimy feeling if there is still any residue left on the part.

***By the way, the modeler guys also use this stuff to strip chrome from plastic so I wouldnt use it on any plastic part with chrome accents like a dash bezel.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Steve........That Cleaner is Awsum on Seat Belts also.....

Ken

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Here is the progress after 24 hours of soaking and gentle brushing with a plastic bristle scrub brush. For the honeycombed areas I have been using a .45 caliber plastic bore brush, though a shotgun bore brush might be a better fit if I could find one. The Super Clean is even progressing well on the the thick argent paint material on the inside of the grill. There has been no effect on the plastic so far. It is still hard, no softening of the outer surface whatsoever.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P4170001.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P4170002.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Steve, would a pressure washer do a better job on the tight places? https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/dunno.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Steve;

Are you running that SuperClean diluted or at 100% strength?

Eric

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Running at about 90%. I added some water just to get it at a high enough level to cover the grill. I may try the pressure washer soon on the honeycomb area.