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Since I got the car and saw the 621 bell housing, I have been wondering if this was a late-year parts scramble or if someone had changed it over to a large clutch. Seeing the cast nose starter gave me further clarification and today my suspicions were confirmed when I pulled the bell housing to see what was in there. A jobber quality 11" clutch with a resurfaced 733 flywheel dated January of 70. I can only surmise the previous owner switched out the clutch when the motor was in and out of the car as it all looks like brand new with almost zero use.
In either case, it's coming off as I now look for another flywheel and a decent 10.5" clutch. At the same time, I'll install a correct 403 bell housing since I have another one sitting here that's ready to go. If only cars could tell the tale. Judging from the wear marks on the inside of the flywheel (block side against the crank flange) it looks to have been there for quite a while? Thoughts anyone? https://i.ibb.co/xfH0yX4/IMG-9264.jpg |
[QUOTE=NorCam;1484525]Since I got the car and saw the 621 bell housing, I have been wondering if this was a late-year parts scramble or if someone had changed it over to a large clutch. Seeing the cast nose starter gave me further clarification and today my suspicions were confirmed when I pulled the bell housing to see what was in there. A jobber quality 11" clutch with a resurfaced 733 flywheel dated January of 70. I can only surmise the previous owner switched out the clutch when the motor was in and out of the car as it all looks like brand new with almost zero use.
In either case, it's coming off as I now look for another flywheel and a decent 10.5" clutch. At the same time, I'll install a correct 403 bell housing since I have another one sitting here that's ready to go. If only cars could tell the tale. Judging from the wear marks on the inside of the flywheel (block side against the crank flange) it looks to have been there for quite a while? Thoughts anyone? Is it a LuK ?? 10 Spline? For sale? So far in my experience they are good for 18 trips down the drag strip :-) Ryan W31 |
Ryan,
I'll PM you the details on what's there. |
Continued on with some more cleanup today. Digging out the front right suspension and trying to get rid of a few layers of grease and grime along with more of that black paint the previous owner sprayed on the control arms. Original ball joints were packed inside all that old grease. Dust shields are cleaning up nicely here. I'll finish cleaning up this side before moving onto the driver's side later in the week.
https://i.ibb.co/JBPTbFZ/IMG-9286.jpg https://i.ibb.co/3Ywhmxk/IMG-9293.jpg https://i.ibb.co/KDWQkxw/IMG-9295.jpg https://i.ibb.co/wNc75fK/IMG-9298.jpg https://i.ibb.co/d0jC9hy/IMG-9302.jpg |
LQQKING great under all the built up stuff...:biggthumpup:
Mike |
Hello there Mike! :cool2:
I have to admit it's kinda hard not to tear into things further and rebuild the front suspension, but keeping it together like this keeps me from going too far. I'll clean up and rebuild the front calipers before they go back on, and plan to properly dress the control arms after they are thoroughly cleaned. Hoses all look like they are still good but will require a more in-depth look as they are now 50 years old. It's coming along nicely. |
You might want to consider replacing the 3 rubber brake hoses ?
JMO Mike |
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When you get to the driver's side, would be interested to see if there's any ink stamp or paint marking on the outside of the frame horn, near where the bumper support bracket bolts up. Have seen several with faint yellow markings in that area.
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There is a wide band under the black paint along the front frame horn and looks like it should reveal itself nicely. I will keep you posted and hope it comes out to be a clear one with the original paint mark intact. I plan on being really careful in that spot and being rather gentle with that area being cleaned. Here's a picture of that frame horn where you can see the original paint line under the black.
https://i.ibb.co/ky6Hrxp/Frame-Horn.jpg |
In that area between that orange line & the tie down slot is where the yellow date might be....Joe
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In case it helps, just found some more images of driver side frame markings in this CRG thread:
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11678 |
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Here's a picture of the frame rail on Skip's late 69...Joe
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Here it is on the 68 Harry Mann car I had...............
https://i1043.photobucket.com/albums...ps719d4521.jpg https://i1043.photobucket.com/albums...psr3rinxzs.jpg |
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Hey Graham, looks like your having fun. Mine is almost ready for the paint shop. Thought you might like these 'X" markings I found inside both fenders and also the lower valance. I need to go look at the frame again for the others.
Attachment 159366 |
Graeme,
Not that you are deeper into this project, what is your preference for removing the "fluff paint"? Anything you would stay away from? Enjoying the project as always! What ya buying next? Tim |
Hey Tim,
As I might have mentioned, the stuff I've been using is Lloyds fight back graffiti remover, and it works excellent when removing a layer or two of spray paint from the undercarriage and suspension. It can be bought in a spray can or bulk form. I've used about 4 spray cans on this car and I am nearly finished. Spraying in control bursts I applied the spray pattern to a small 12" x 12" area at a time and let it set up for 1 to 2 minutes. I then used a white (ultra-fine) and/or green (fine) Scotch Brite pad to work the area in either a directional or circular motion to move the spray paint around while it was being softened by the chemicals. I could see the chemicals softening the paint as I worked it and was careful to keep the work area wet where the chemical also became the lubricant for the pad. This also kept the strokes from being too aggressive. Just a light scuff with the pad was all that was needed to work through the softened spray paint while it was still wet. Getting the area wet and letting the product set up for 1-2 minutes was the key as it began to break down each layer of spray paint. It also served to soak and lubricate the Scotch Brite pad and this keeps the process from getting too aggressive or working beyond a single layer of paint at a time. Once it started to thicken or dry I would quickly rinse it down and wipe it off using clean cotton rags. The product calls for a water rinse to neutralize the chemicals. I tried that but it didn't serve well to remove the paint as it started to dry and it seemed to gum up and became tacky again. I switched to using brake clean from a commercial pump sprayer and this was far better at removing all contaminants in a simple swipe. I would then hit it with one more rinse using brake clean which cleaned each area very nicely. As a safety precaution, I would often open the overhead and shop man doors to air out the shop of any fumes as they build quickly. Concerned with shop safety, I also wore a full face (dual cartridge) respirator mask and good rubber gloves. I also made sure the furnace was off and any source of spark was eliminated prior to using any of these products. It would be better using these chemicals outdoors or in a better environment, but being that it's winter up here and temps are kind of cold, I was working in a heated 3 bay garage that I use for my personal workshop. In any case, you can see from the results here that this product is excellent to soften up and remove any spray paints from the original surfaces and produces excellent results. Not everyone is comfortable with brake clean for rinsing things down, but I thought it was better than many other solvent-based products and worked effectively for this project. Here's the link to a technical datasheet for Lloyd's product. https://www.lloydslaboratories.com/w...ti-Remover.pdf You can buy it in a spray bomb as seen below, or you can buy it in a bulk container and dispense from a large pump-action spray bottle. Just be sure you wear gloves and eye protection. It claims to be a fairly safe chemical and is biodegradable but it states that the spray mist should not be inhaled. Again, I chose a mask to avoid breathing in any fumes or mist caused by the spray, and also wore a mask that integrates full eye protection. A must for working under the car and also while spraying brake cleaner. Better safe than sorry is what I like to practice. https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-hc8a...318917.jpg?c=2 |
I'm at a bit of a standstill right now as debate the direction I am continuing with on the front end. The previous black paint and fluffing it received prior, really sucked. Whoever did it sprayed over the top of grease and dirt in many areas including the front suspension and the subframe. Now that I've cleaned the floors and all of the hard lines from the back of the car forward, it's really looking good underneath the car, and that's where my dilemma kicks in.
My concern was with the front subframe and the suspension but that may be behind me now (lol). I've already detailed the rear diff and cleaned up the frame rails which are miles ahead of what it looked like before. In cleaning the front suspension it really dialed it back to a more natural look, but that made for a mismatch with the rest of the car which has already been repainted with the engine and peripherals already rebuilt. Floors look completely natural now and they are fine like that, but the front subframe and control arms didn't match the rest of the car so I changed direction and gave it some freshening with a mild restoration of sorts. Sparingly applied, I dusted the front suspension and K member and blew in some black paint to dress them up and have the car looking a bit more consistent. Not what the purists want to see (I can hear their teeth grinding) but it's now done on one side and taken in the direction of a soft restoration where I couldn't leave bare metal and the original finish exposed. In either case, I'm rebuilding the front calipers right now and they will go back on once I have finished cleaning up the dust shields and caliper brackets from the driver's side. Not trying to make it look restored or rebuilt, just a light mist of flat and semi-flat blacks to clean it up and cover any bare spots I dialed back. In the end, I think I'm going to keep this car and will be much happier seeing it like this than having a bunch of exposed metal around an area that's already restored such as the engine and the repaint of the car. In either case...I think I'm OK with this now. Took a few days to settle with me but I think I made the right choice for the car being what it is. Here are a couple of shots of the passenger side suspension after I cleaned it up, and a shot after blowing some fresh black paint onto it. At least the area was cleaned and prepped this time around. All the dirt and grease were washed away before I fogged it black again. (really I am still on the fence about it) If it doesn't sit well when I'm done, I can always dial it back again. Dilemmas dilemmas. (lol) https://i.ibb.co/ynV5xqL/IMG-9333.jpg https://i.ibb.co/3dPq1Rv/IMG-9336.jpg https://i.ibb.co/TvhmZ3x/IMG-9347.jpg |
That's nice, but I think I liked it better before the black paint. Can't you use some of those products that Rick Nelson uses to protect bare metal on the frame? Maybe use some of that rust remover that he uses to take the rust off and then coat it with the metal protector? For some reason the names of those materials won't come to mind.
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I feel your pain brother. Went through this same process of deciding which way to go. Ultimately decided on full resto...I’d be lying if I said I never second guessed that decision. Your car is/will be awesome no matter which path you take.
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I must be a horrible person...I would have restored the sub-frame completely :)
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Been there and done that, but not this time. :worship: |
Dropped off the original exhaust manifolds to a friend's shop last week. He sent them for a few rounds in his block tumbler using some steel shot. Gotta say the exhaust manifolds came out looking great. Now to spray them with a high temp clear and keep them looking this nice. Here's the before and after shots and some pics of the tumbler he uses for cast iron parts cleaning.
https://i.ibb.co/XY5G5pW/IMG-8480.jpg How they looked before being tumbled. https://i.ibb.co/ZMMd0kh/IMG-9312.jpg A look inside his tumbler as he just finished cleaning a block. https://i.ibb.co/HXrYF9Y/IMG-9313.jpg The steel shot that he uses for cast iron clean up. https://i.ibb.co/bJcT8Pm/IMG-9314.jpg The tumbler itself. These things are cool. https://i.ibb.co/QpJjN24/IMG-9373.jpg And the exhaust manifolds after being cleaned up. |
And here are a few more shots of the manifolds c/w smog tubes. The tubes have been restored and I dusted them with a coat of black over the brown coper like finish that's underneath. Hoping after they've been heat cycled a few times, that they start to look more like they should. Last picture is the original 633 calipers after I cleaned them up. Still working on them now and will pull the pistons to check them for pitting inside the bores. If they are good, I'll put new seals in them and clear coat them before they go back on. It they need to be sleeved, I'll send them out for that.
https://i.ibb.co/qm5R53z/IMG-9374.jpg https://i.ibb.co/1njZpp0/IMG-9375.jpg https://i.ibb.co/k4qjnHL/IMG-9377.jpg https://i.ibb.co/K9mL9rJ/IMG-9380.jpg https://i.ibb.co/H726M8s/IMG-9381.jpg |
Pitting in the bore doesn't matter for the piston rides on the O-Ring.
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Finally got around to cleaning up the rotors and have the pistons removed from the calipers. Bores look pretty good and the cores are now soaking in evapo rust to further clean them before installing new slides, seals and o-rings. Should have these back on when things warm later next week. Had a wintery blast drop some more snow on us this weekend and a big plunge in temperatures. Should make it out to the shop today to get some more work done as there's nothing else to do right now (other than watch mecum online).
No NHL means more time on the car I guess? https://i.ibb.co/B2gGrLT/IMG-9415.jpg Original rotors washed down and ready for a light facing. https://i.ibb.co/Ss6FSwx/IMG-9416.jpg This yellow paint daub and a white stencil number are somewhat visible. https://i.ibb.co/y6hq86y/IMG-9422.jpg Both rotors are still within spec. Will clean up with a couple of thou off each side. https://i.ibb.co/djzyZYf/IMG-9466.jpg Pistons are good and bores are fairly decent looking. Back into the cleaner! https://i.ibb.co/MncYx2P/IMG-9467.jpg They're both soaking now Madge. But it isn't in Palmolive (lol) |
Been busy trying to finish some big projects at work but found some time to get out to the shop and the calipers are finished up. Last week, I also dropped the rotors off to a friend and he surfaced them for me. Only took a couple thousand off each side to face them. New bearings are packed, new brake hoses are sitting off to the side here and the restored brake hardware will be going back on very soon.
https://i.ibb.co/ByyFqrz/IMG-9507.jpg https://i.ibb.co/dmTRj1T/IMG-9503.jpg https://i.ibb.co/ygSJbwr/IMG-9505.jpg https://i.ibb.co/kmtcCFr/IMG-9522.jpg https://i.ibb.co/qdKvV5z/IMG-9520.jpg |
Beautiful work Graeme!!!!:worship:
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I hope to see this car in person one day! MCACN 2020........yeah........that's it!
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Perhaps, if I still have it in November that could be possible Tim. :smirk:
I still have a couple of people who've been staying on me about selling it when it's finished and that's still a real possibility. I'm going to put some miles on it come April/May, but may in fact sell it if the price is right. We'll see once the snow has melted and the dust has settled on the other matters currently affecting the world. |
My own personal observations are that when blending "new work" into an original car - Most people use entirely too much paint which sticks out like a sore thumb... you have to do it as crappy as it was originally.
To blend frames/subframes -I have mixed some roofing tar with black paint and rubbed it into the frame with a rag... it doesn't stick out and will not result in over spray anywhere. In this shot you can see where I rubbed the paint into the subframe... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Sx...w1461-h1095-no A light coat of semigloss on the calipers and then file/sand the machined areas like original... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fR...=w1194-h895-no Casting Date https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S6...w1461-h1095-no Assembly date https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_z...w1461-h1095-no Here is a photo of the entire subframe with the tar paint mixture blended into the frame... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uX...=w1280-h854-no and what the car looks like after a few years... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UJ...U=w800-h600-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kZ...I=w800-h600-no |
Thanks for that. Been so busy making hay while the sun is still shining for our business here that I haven't touched the car in weeks. I should be wrapped up with things here in the next few days and will be jumping back on to finish it up and get it running again.
Still have to deal with the front frame horns as I am not happy with either the current look of it, the wash down stripped look or the touched up look. Might have to try your method out if I don't just dial it back and cover it in BoeShield or something similar. Are the calipers supposed to be black? Or were they bare from the factory? |
Black
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Such a shame to paint them! :youguysrock: |
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Been super busy as of late but finally took some time while the weather was mild to get the bell housing painted up yesterday. It did manage to hit 57 degrees in the afternoon which was OK to paint, but no sooner than this morning and another snowstorm is upon us. I will try and get some more progress happening over the next few days.
https://i.ibb.co/VNdCqLb/IMG-9793.jpg https://i.ibb.co/CHKSHvG/IMG-9792.jpg https://i.ibb.co/P4YjQFV/IMG-9790.jpg https://i.ibb.co/hYDNm1D/IMG-9788.jpg |
He's baaaaack!
Awesome! |
Finally I've been patiently waiting....lol
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Sorry guys...
I needed to build a new website for my company and that alone took hundreds of hours to build and complete. I had to get it right, and we finally launched it last Monday which was a heavy load off my shoulders. Now I can finally get back to working on the car. Graeme |
Looks good Graeme. Stay safe and healthy.
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