Wow! When you are done you will have something to be proud of. Just like I was.
You and Annie have hit it out of the park, again. You only have one way of doing them though.

x2. Car is looking really great. You guys should be proud.:beers:

Here we have restored the kick panels, vents, seals and plating. I had to replace one kick panel (not pictured) due to it being an tooth sharpening board for a vermin but the other one was in good shape and cleaned up well so I just replaced the one side. Very labor intensive but the only way to do it right. Most "restoration" shops clean these up but do not rebuild them. Much like the rest of their "restorations".

Here is the restoration of the wiper transmission arm. For the 1st ever I sent a batch of wiper motors to Steve Hackel as I cannot do them in house for anywhere close to what he charges and was very happy with the results.

:youguysrock:
I hope some will learn from your thread on what the word restoration is supposed to imply. As in all the attention and time that must go into all the sub components you have shown here in great detail.
This is the best build thread I have ever followed, thanks for sharing with us Rick and Annie

Mike

Now I see why your restorations turn out so well.....you have 3 hands!:biggthumpup:

When I first saw your photos on FB of Mark's 70Z I knew I had to step up my own restoration project, especially the interior items. You do it right for sure and thanks for sharing your techniques.
My wiper transmission arms I struggled with whether to drill the rivets but decided to do it the same way you did after spending time looking for the correct rivets and coming up empty.

:eek2::eek2::eek2: Stunning!!:3gears::3gears::3gears:

For many years now the first response I give to a potential customer that walks in the shop wanting an estimate to "restore" their car is, "define restoration". I would not be exaggerating if 98% of the people honestly have no clue what a real restoration consists of or what it takes in both time and money to get there.

Nice component restoration Rick. The wiper motor is like fine jewelry and the kick panels look factory fresh.

Where do you source the tubular rivets for the cowl vent doors?

Thanks.

Phil

Fantastic Rick! The detail is amazing.

Ace Hardware Phil. I get most all of my specialty rivets (excluding ball joints) from them. They are not cheap even when bought in bulk and I usually buy a quantity at any given time so I have enough in my inventory. They even have the rivets used on the grille brackets. However, the tool is another thing and if you want to use the correct rivets you also need the correct tool and there are several different sizes. I don't recall where I bought mine but they are readily available on the net.

Here's where I got mine:
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3439

They sell the tools too.

For those doing their own kick panels, this is the product I use to seal them against the interior side walls, DS-110 Duct Seal. This matches the original to a T, is easy to work with and seals them from water leaks. You can get this at most big box stores in the electrical department. On average it will take pretty close to the whole brick to do one pair of kick panels. I slice the brick into a ribbons about 3/4" wide length wise and roll it between my palms until you make an approximate 3/4" to 1" diameter rope. I would rather use too much in this area than not enough as water leaks are not good.

God, this thing is so nice... I quit. I'm sellin' everything...

How did you fix the cables?

Looking exceptional Rick.

WOW!!! Great work!

Excellent attention to detail. Thank you for sharing your processes with us so that we may use your techniques in our own projects.

Hi , fantastic progress on this Chevelle...I have a question about the rear brake backing plates those were originally clear/ silver Zinc ?

Also would this pertain to all 69 cars ?

Thanks again Rob

No, not zinc. These were stamped from sheet steel. Some plants painted the rear differentials black while others were left natural steel while still others had a flash coat of black sprayed over the rear though that was mostly done at the dealership. I left mine all natural because Baltimore cars are known for that and the fact that we found no paint whatsoever on it. As far as other 69's that would depend on the plant.

Rick...your restoration work is simply spectacular, and second to none! I am looking very forward to seeing the finished product at MCACN 2019....I am also looking forward to seeing the 70 Z28 that you are restoring...the one you did for Mark Mitchell was amazing!

Thanks for the kind words Randy. It will be a bit before we get started on the restoration of the Z28 as we need to finish some other projects first. Meanwhile, Jamie has the body so he will be getting started on that soon along with the other 3 cars he is doing body and paint on for us. I will try and post updates the body and paint on that car as it is a very nice solid car to start with similar to Mark's.

Last minute striping by Jamie, Joe, Brian and Joey just prior to the MCR shoot last Monday. Thanks to Brian Henderson for the photos. The car will be displayed February 8-10 at the Pittsburg World of Wheels as you see it here and I will be flying out to spend the weekend at the show. Then it is back here for some VERY long nights and weekends getting all the restored parts assembled on the car. Long road ahead but if it has been anything like the first part of the road it will be a joy.

very very nice work!!

That color looks spectacular.

I am going to have to come visit your shop the next time I am in Springfield. I live just over 2 hours from your shop.

Please do. I am typically here 7 days a week including holidays and the welcome mat is always out. Call before you come and I will be here.

And.....A Cracker Barrel very close by :)

Dan

I have gotten a couple of emails from people questioning the placement of the hood stripes. Though straight may look a little cleaner I do not like how the end up in the front with regards to where they meet up with the triangle. As a reminder, these stripes were put on by Lynn Yenko and her friends after school. We discussed this in length when she sat in our MCACN booth several years ago with Dana's 68 Yenko. She explained that many times they were in a hurry and the stripes on the hood as well as the body were not straight and each car could be different from the next. Ditto for the stripe being installed after the chrome grilles. Some had them and some did not. I went through many original photographs before these were put on by Joe and Brian and think they are perfect. Below is a photo of our hood and one off Chad's original paint Yenko built very close to ours. As you can see, his were even more angled. Is there a right way or a wrong way? I don't think so.

The SCW guys did the DY COPO Yenko hood stripes as they were done originally too. I would have a hard time putting them back correctly, but that is how they need to be!!

Looks amazing!!

Ryan W31

That would bother me not being parallel, but correct is correct. I can also appreciate high school kids installing them at a slight angle, as if they were off it wouldn't show like parallel ones.

BTW Excellent job, looking very nice. I cant believe more people didn't opt for this color.

Looks like people start from the edge of the syc emblem and just try to keep equal space and then work their way back towards the cowl

Not much to report this week as we have about as much done as we can get done until the rolling body comes back to the shop then its late nights and weekends again.

As you may recall, we found all 4 original and dated shocks still on the chassis when we tore it down. I finally got these restored with all new bushings and newly made decals. Wish I had gotten them in time to put on the chassis for World of Wheels.

Also cleaned up the original top fender trim pieces and rubbers that were in excellent condition needing only a cleaning and stainless polishing.

How can you restore the function of the shocks? Or are they still functional?

Ryan W31

The tops were cut off and NOS guts put in their place. Then rewelded and re-knurled. Very expensive but well worth it on original shocks.

Dan Patch
www.dansshocks.com

Out for a nice winter cruise...…..

I guess you can’t say “never driven in the winter” lol!
Beautiful color

It wasn't driven, it was pulled. ;)