I've got a dual point dist. from a '59 Vette (I think) if that would work for you. I might know of some parts from a dual 4 engine that I passed on a few years ago.

1110891 dual point distributor was used from 1957 through 1961, as I recall.

They are fairly common, and not that expensive.

Some interesting 57 2x4bbl discussion in the comments on this car.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...t-bel-air-234/

Lots of misinformation in that discussion. Wow, that is a shock, right? Look how much misinformation gets spewed out whenever they auction a 69 Z.

Missing the 997 heads. Set of rebuildable cores will set you back almost $3k.

Colvin's book does not list an "ED" suffix. Horrible pic of the stamp pad. Not sure you could read it anyway with all that paint.

ALL the dual quad motors got deep groove pulleys, not just the solid lifter dual quads. They all got the same 891 dual point distributor with no vac advance.

Three bits of misinformation, all from one guy (Zoomad).

"The second detail is the pulleys. The high hp engines as the 270hp solid lifter dual quad and the 283hp solid lifter FI engines would have been equipped with deep groove pulleys to prevent the belt from getting thrown at higher rpm. The hydraulic cam dual quad and FI engines got the standard depth pulleys like this car has."

ALL DUAL QUADS HAD DEEP GROOVE PULLEYS.

"Another tip off between the solid cam engines and the hydraulic versions is the solid cam engines ran dual point distributors where the hydraulic versions used the standard single point dizzy. I can’t tell by the pics which one this has."

ALL DUAL QUADS HAD DUAL POINT DISTRIBUTORS.

The last thing that differs between the solid lifter engines and the hydraulic versions is the fuel line size. Solid cam engines have 3/8” fuel line from the tank to the pump, carbs or Injection unit. The hydraulic cam engines came with the standard 5/16” fuel line size front to back. I can’t tell by the pics what the fuel line size is.

ALL DUAL QUADS HAD 3/8 FUEL LINE.

All of the above can be gleaned just from the AIM.

In another thread, I showed pics of the vintage American Racing 14 x 7 wheels I picked up for cheap for the 57. They are a dead on match to the wheels I have (at least three of them!) other than the gold spokes.

Figured I would post here in the thread about the 57. I decided to paint all four “good” wheels the same color. Just going from memory, I remember most of the American Racing TT wheels as being gray spokes with a machined lip, other than the 200S, Daisy style wheels that came along in the late 60s. Decided on a Charcoal color. Tedious work to be sure. The most time consuming part is masking.

First couple of pics are the wheels I picked up on FB Marketplace. Guy happened to be coming close to my office for another engagement, so he even delivered. Masked all four, sandblasted and painted Charcoal color. Because the spinner bases were just bare pot metal, I also masked off the threads and blasted them. Painted them silver. A new set of chrome lug nuts in the correct thread size, shank size and depth completed the project. Very pleased with the results. I did not put the spinner on the LF, as I am waiting on a spindle washer from Stefano. I am guessing it will be here Monday or Tuesday. I realize there are some flaws in the machined lips, but I am willing to live with them. I wanted genuine vintage parts that would have been on it in the 60's.

To clean up the machined lip, I used regular old rubbing compound (white with very low abrasive content) followed by regular car wax. I am guessing the ONLY way to stop the very slight oxidation would be clear coat; but I just don't want to go there. Anyone have any secrets to preserving the machined lip appearance without clear coat?

Another FB marketplace score. The engine in the car currently is a 60s 327. I ran across this pair of NOS valve covers. Again, the guy DELIVERED them to my office. He bought them from the dealer in 1965 and they have NEVER been installed on a car. He shipped out to Viet Nam right after the purchase. In the 80s, he got a wild hair and decided to have them powder coated. Bought NOS decals at the same time. They are gorgeous. I almost hate to install them, but will. They were about 1/3 the price of a new set of reproductions.

Only problem with OEM stamped steel valve covers is warpage. Waiting on some high quality spreader bars to install.

I use a Product called White Diamond to clean and preserve aluminum. I have a bottle of aluminum wheel sealer from Alcoa here that I used on the wheels on my Pete. It helped the hard worked for shine to last a lot longer. Buffing and polishing 6 semi wheels was a whole weekends worth of dirty work.