The forward cabin floor on my car is original and no reinforcement plates. I replaced the entire trunk floor assembly from the forward floor back, saving the original frame rails.

Very timely. I just shot my 68 wheel well undercoating using in part your photos as a guide. Thank you!

Good stuff! Welcome back Darrell!

Diff cleaning and preserving is now complete. Installed pinion races and carrier bearings (not pictured and previously axle bearings and seals). Once I get the inner pinion bearing installed I will start the reassembly process. I've decided to go with the solid pinion sleeve and I'll walk through how I set it up etc once the time comes.



Photos 937 - 940 - Diff during the heating and coating of Cosmoline Rust Veto & RPM (Rust Preventative Magic). I heated the differential with a heat gun and applied the mixture with a paint brush and kept heat on it while it cured and leveled out.



Photos 941 - 942 - Center section and the casting date now revealed. C 21 8



Photos 943 - 944 - Perches and their markings of LH and RH

Pinion bearing installed. I removed the old one with a Dremel tool and metal cut off wheel (or you can use an air cut off; I used E-Z lock wheels), a hammer and chisel. Also note the pinion shim thickness. Since I have changed gears I reused the old shim for a starting point. For this setup it was a 0.028" shim. Next I threw the pinion with shim into the freezer in the frig here at work (mini frig). Then I set the bearing up with a heat gun applied to the face side of the bearing (the point that makes contact with the shim on the pinion. After a hour in the freezer and roughly 5 mins under the heat gun the bearing dropped right into place. You could also do this with the carrier bearings and pinion races. However I used a brass & steel punches to knock those into place making sure they bottomed out.

Photo 945 - Pinion with bearing & shim installed.

Photo 946 - I did get a little fancy with the stand and thermal imaging camera and magnets but you get the idea.

Darrell, any consideration to finding a more date appropriate and application appropriate rear axle since this one is not original to the car? Just curious.

It would be different if I had the original engine and/or trans. But since all 3 are MIA I did not feel the need to replace the diff. At least at this point.

I can understand that. Thanks.

Started cleaning the yoke and I think my evaporust has fought the good fight but its done. I'll be ordering more in the following days.

Photo 947 - Yoke before cleaning


Photos 948 - 950 - After cleaning and evapo. Still not happy with the results so I am gonna give it another cleaning before the rebuild. Note the yellow marking.


Here is why I said I needed new Evaporust. After sitting for 48hrs this is the result..

Photos 951 - 952 - Backing plate

Finally got the pinion yoke cleaned completely and now its time to set up the diff.

Photos 953 - 956 - Yoke



I decided to go with a solid pinion shim for this application. I measured the old crush sleeve and it was 2.283 - 2.278". I added shims to the sleeve to hit right at 2.282" and left the pinion seal out while I attempt the setup. Overall the carrier shims were 0.242" on the left and 0.063, 0.063, 0.098" on right of the carrier looking at the diff. Overall total was 0.476". the final setup was on the left 0.242 & 0.013" and the right side was 0.160, 0.063" for a total of 0.0478". This put the backlash right at 0.006 - 0.007". These are used gears and do not show the same pattern as new gears but this is an acceptable wear pattern (confirmed by a couple of folks that have experience). Pinion shim could have been a little thicker to deepen the pattern engagement but for all I am happy with the look. Worst case once the car is up and running and if there is a whine on decel then I will go back into it.

Photos 957 - 958 - Pinion installed with the correct resistance on the bearings. I've always gone off of feel and it hasn't failed me yet. Note: the carrier shim photos are not the final shims used for the setup. Just ones I tried using to accomplish the correct backlash.



Photos 959 - 960 - Carrier bolted down using a crossing pattern and then using a magnetic base and dial indicator confirmed the backlash was 0.006 - 0.007".



Photos 961 - 962 - gear mesh


Photos 963 - 965 - Pinion seal, "New" aluminum diff cover, vent and yoke.


Going today to hopefully get gear lube, posi additive and evaporust should be delivered today or tomorrow.

Finally got more Evapo in. Soaked the backing plates and axles.

Photos 966 - 967 - Driver side backing plate


Photos 968 - 969 - Pass side



Photos 970 - 971 - In place



Photo 972 - Axles


Photo 973 - 2 steps forward 3 steps back. A reminder when rebuilding a diff, remember to put sealant on the splines and threads of pinion when installing the yoke. If you don't you might have the same issue I just had. Leaking oil through splines and around nut. Blessing in disguise I guess. I want to replace the nut any way. I was able to save the gear lube and GM limited slip lube.

You wouldn't believe how many people laugh at me when I tell them to seal the splines. Put the sealant in the yoke, NOT on the pinion shaft.

See who's laughing when the yoke slings gear lube onto their floor pan and mufflers...

Yep. I'd just got in a rush when I pulled the yoke back off the first time (using a solid sleeve I left the rear seal out until I got the setup where I liked it) to install the seal and just slapped it back together without blinking. Guess I'm getting old and forgetful.. Either way yoke was pulled and cleaned (along with the splines) I used Ultra Black and applied to the yoke splines and a helping on the washer face. Also good point Freddie apply the sealant on the yoke and not the pinion. Let it dry overnight and I'll fill'er up and see if it leaks now.. Then its axles and back under the car.


Photo 974 - Yoke & nut

After letting the Ultra Black setup I added some Penn Grade 1 80w-90 (formerly Brad Penn oil) along with GM additive. Let it sit for about 30 minutes with the carrier facing upward and no leaks. Next was throwing the axles in with the c-clips and installing the carrier pin and finally buttoning up the diff cover. Also dug out one of my NOS diff gaskets.

Photo 975 - Pinion splines no leaky

Photos 976 - 977 - axles and pin installed


Photo 978 - GM 3931152 Differential Cover Gasket


Photo 979 - Cover installed




Back under the car she goes.

Photo 980 - Leaf spring pads


Older photos for comparison Before & After

Photos 981 - 982 - Diff back under the car




EDIT

One thing I forgot to mention. I also took a file to the mating surfaces on the cover and housing. Applied a thin coat of Ultra Black on the housing, placed the gasket and then applied a coat on the cover. Cross-pattern on the bolts and good to go.

Coming along nicely!

No real updates. Photo of the traction bars I plan to use. I need to get them blasted and prepped for paint. I guess I'm making myself a liar as I will have a "restored" part on the car. Eh, nobody's perfect. :cool2:


Photos 983 - 984 - Square tube early Lakewood bars. Note that the pass side bar is slighlty longer than the driver. Yes they were designed & made this way on purpose.


Photo 985 - Another view of the diff



Poll Time for anyone watching. What color would you pick to paint the bars?
I think I've made my decision but curious what others think.


Yellow
White
Black
Blue
Other

Traction bars paint color
 

Is that original paint on the bars? Why can’t you preserve them as well?
Otherwise, my vote is for yellow.

Cheers,
Marty

It is not original paint. Its like a hammer-tone silver. They are not "original" (meaning added to the car during its life before me) to the car but since I am adding other Day 2 items the bars made sense.

I vote for the original color. Was that the traditional Yellow ??

Why not keep looking for a set of nicer unrestored bars to stay with the theme? You are only interested in this style? Second question, what is the presumed benefit of unequal length traction bars?

Because I am a tightass and I have these and thought they would work for my setup. I've had others over the years and sold them. I like them as they are unique. From my understanding due to the pass side axle receives the initial power that the thought of moving the snubber location further up the spring would benefit more. Obviously it didn't last that long in production as there was no real signs it made a difference. I have another set that a friend gave me years ago and they were both lengthened towards the eye of the spring but once I purchased these I decided to give those back to my buddy.

I do need to find a pair of the twisted plates and J bolts for this style mount as this was before the strap was added to Lakewood bars. So if anyone has a pair and interested in selling them please pm me.:grin:

Small updates.

Photos 986 - 987 - Installed a new ET decal on the diff cover


Photo 988 - Found the photo of the traction bars from when I first purchased them. As you can see they needed a little help.


Photos 989 - 996 - As you will notice I did not go with the majorty pick of yellow. Sorry but I like being different. I took Mello's comment to heart and I "aged" the bars to hopefully look more the part and style of the car.

Photos 997 - 998 - Test fit of one of the bars. Obviously I do not have it tight or adjusted yet. It was purely mockup and to see how well I will like the bars on the car. At the end of the day I am happy with the look and to be perfectly honest that's all that really matters. :beers:

----Good job on the rehab on the bars!....Bill S

Thanks. The "hammertone" I previously THOUGHT was on these bars was actually pitting.. A little sanding, body filler, sanding, primer, filler, sanding, paint and "aging" was how I got to the end result.

Photo 999 - 1001 - Bars installed

I like the look of the white bars with a bit of added patina, Cook.

Any updates Darrell?

Bump for updates,...I love this thread.

X2!!

Any updates Darrell?

Sorry folks. Been a little MIA working on other things/projects. Hopefully I'll have a chance in the upcoming months to share progress. Stay tuned as they say.

Photos 1002 - 1003 - Tank re-installed along with filler tube and cap & rear bumper bracket fit up.

Photo 1004 - Rear bumper and guards installed.

Photo 1005 - Driver side brake assembly before

Photos 1006 - 1008 - Driver side after

Photo 1009 - Pass side brake assembly before

Photos 1010 - 1012 - Pass side after

Photos 1013 - 1016 - Brake drums after. Sorry no photos of before.

Thanks for the update. Those mud dobbers we’re evicted

Welcome back!!
 

It’s great to see an update on this. Glad you’re back in action here.

Thanks,
Marty

Thanks for the comments and likes/thanks.


Photos 1017 - 1018 - NOS Delco Pleasurizer shocks installed.

Photos 1019 - 1021 - back down on all 4s

Photo 1022 - working on fuel line stampings meaning my attempt of reproducing the stamp since I do not have any original hose.

Always enjoy seeing your updates Darrell, thanks.

Currently I’ve been trying to nail down reproducing the gas hose markings. I’d previously posted my first attempt. To say I was not satisfied would be an understatement. So tonight I feel like I’m pretty dang close..


Photos 1023 - 1025 - Bottom hose is the latest and greatest attempt. Using archival ink pigment and making my own stamps I thing I can finally say I am satisfied. Top hose was the previously attempt. If there ends up being any interest I might consider marketing these since there are none on the market currently. At least to my knowledge.

Hoses look fantastic! What type of ink did you use? Alcohol based? I e got a project that needs a solid ink, but not white.

The gas hose stamps look great. I had an original but can't locate. I removed it 25 + years ago. If I come across it I will post for comparison.