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Nice!!
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That's a good looking drive shaft loop...
I love this project, I've got a bunch of day two stuff set aside including a pedestal tach and 2-5/8 gauges, scattershield, traction bars... Got my eyes on a oneowner 68 RS if I can pry it loose. |
Looking good Chas. Digging that driveshaft and that billet input as well.
Coming along nicely now. |
The project has been stalling a bit….. need my buddy and body man to help me assemble the front end. I hope we got time this upcoming week… I am attaching the grill to the valance with rivets but don’t like the fit… the valance had some bumps and bruises. Looks like it’ll need tweaking to get it perfect then repainted. I’m definitely on the home stretch….
Thanks for the kind words…. I can’t wait to post pics of the body assembled.. to be perfectly humble, this car is pretty amazing! |
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All the sheet metal is on except the lower valance. I'm not happy with the fitment of the grill to the valance so I recently purchased an NOS piece. My valance sustained a few bumps and bruises throughout its life and as a result the repaired leading edge just doesn't stand up to the condition of everything else on this body. I am however very happy with the hood :drool:
I still have lots to do but at least it looks like a car again, well sorta... |
You're killing me with that gorgeous Granada Gold paint...:drool:
Someday.... https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...Camaro_014.jpg |
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Some under hood pics...
The hinge springs are lighter springs designed for a lighter glass hood, I bought them from Heartbeat City. The radiator is a 68 big block (tanks OL and IL and date coded L, not sure if it's December 66 or December 67, I don't really care since it's not a factory big block car) manual transmission Harrison unit I bought from SuperNovaSS (Jason). It has a new four row core in it. The alternator is the rebuilt original 37amp alternator my car was born with, dated August 7th 1966. The voltage regulator is also the original born with unit dated July 1966. The horns are also original and dated June 4th 1966. As you may remember, this car was originally equipped with manual drums.. I purchased a rebuilt OE booster from Mike Gibbons, he just happened to have a date code that fell in line with my car... not really that important to me since it's not original but ironic. Mike also restored my hood hinges and hood release. I decided to not use the latch with glass hood. Not really trying to build a sleeper but figured the original 327 fender call outs were cool enough... I thought about putting 427 emblems but just went with the original 327 pieces. |
Super cool !!
Soak the battery hold down in a small bowl of dish soap overnight and the sticker should come off without scraping. Gotta love where they put the stupid stickers on parts. |
Good eye. Unfortunately the battery tray, hold down, and hold down bolt are reproduction. The original tray was not salvageable and the hold down and bolt were missing. The hardware holding the tray down is the original though.
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Yep, can't have everything original. I did find an NOS tray for my '67 a number of years ago and it is already rusting from the acid...:rolleyes2: |
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Graeme sold me this a couple years ago. I think it's from late 70s/80s based on the box. The instructions are dated 68. Regardless, it's a neat piece.. Installing soon!
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Unfortunately the Line Loc solenoid is not working. Brakes are hooked up and bled. Two days ago I drove the car for the first time in the shop. Everything seemed good enough. Can't really hear anything with a MEAN 496 and open headers anyway..... Muffler shop is only a couple miles away, should I drive the car there with open headers?..... YES!
Yesterday I drove the car on the street about 5 miles to the muffler shop. What an AWESOME experience! More pictures to come but here's the motor with the NOS fly eye... and yes I made a new filter for it before running it. I will make a YouTube account so all you non Instagrammers out there can hear it |
Looks great!
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Awesome!
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Looks GREAT, Sir!!!
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Exhaust system is in. I went with 3" Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers and Doug's Headers electric cutouts. I knew I was going to bring my car to Gene's Mufflers in Downey, CA for the work. Greg, the owner, did an amazing job on this system. I wanted it to be low profile and be a full 3" system. I also wanted an H-Pipe system since I felt that was more period correct. Greg informed an X-Pipe would be much better and not crack. He said sometimes motors with large duration camshafts literally crack the H-Pipe. Whatever.... Just do your thing Greg. He said, "you won't be disappointed with what I'm gonna do." He was right! He opted to place the cutouts in this position so they aren't visible from the side of the car, very low profile. The mufflers sound really nice but it is very quiet. Sounds like a "Sleeper". Once I wired up the cutouts and tried them out I was equally impressed. Same tone as the open headers but not as loud.
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If you ever get a chance, it would be great if you could put this on a chassis dyno and compare with the cut-outs open vs. closed.
Just curious. |
Fantastic work in all areas on your build. Love it.
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Did you oval the exhaust tips to fit between the leaf springs and the body?
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Very creative and nice install. Love your build!
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Camaro...
The craftsmanship is obviously first rate...but, the cleanliness of the underside and all the components is incredible.
Nice job. -wilma :beers: |
That exhaust is pretty sanitary looking - especially for a 3" system, very nice! The whole thing has turned out very well.
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Thank you all for all the nice compliments! The car is shaping up nicely. Now we need to get it aligned... My buddy took two pictures of the car, one of me driving it with open headers on the way to the muffler shop, and one when we picked it up with the exhaust installed.... Digging the ride height now!:drool:
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Nice
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Damn, that exhaust is a work of art !!
After I saw an original exhaust on a Camaro, I remembered the tips were oval from the factory. I have Pypes 2.5 on my '67 and they always rattle on something. I am going to put the tips in my press while they are out for the current work and oval them for clearance. |
WOW, nice exhaust! I know where I'm going next time I need exhaust work!!
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Short idle clip with the cutouts open then closed toward the end of the video.
https://youtube.com/shorts/MfTHVVO2xyI?feature=share |
Sounds really mean Chuck!
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This car is awesome. I do have one question though. As a former 67 Camaro owner, the rear bumper bumperettes/saber teeth look too far out from the license plate. I remember mine lined up more with the inside ends of the tail lights. Not meant as criticism, which is correct?
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They are closer to the center on an RS, possibly due to the back up lights in the lower tail panel. https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...Camaro_067.jpg |
Mine was a non RS car and they were spaced identical to the picture of your RS/SS.
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I don’t take it as a criticism. This car is a very early built 67, September’66. Could be one oddity of the early cars. When I bought the car, it was mostly original paint and the bumpers and bumper guards were in the same position. In fact the original brackets bolting the bumper guard to the lower valance were originally silver zinc, maybe even flash chrome. The plater did them in black oxide which may be correct for most cars but they weren’t black on this car, I don’t think they were ever removed prior to me removing them.
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There was a shortage of rear bumper guards when the Camaros first came out and Chevrolet shipped them to the dealers later to be installed when the car was brought in for service. There's a service bulletin about it. The Camaro rear bumpers have a couple of different holes on the bottomside, one for the rear guards in the normal location and one further outboard. I'm not sure why the ones further out were ever put there but they do allow someone the mount the guards further out.
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Great information! I just put it back together the way it was when I received the car. Oddly enough my bumper does not have any holes closer to the center of the bumper. It does however have holes even further toward the outside of the bumper. It is my assumption that this is the original bumper. The car was never hit in the back nor was it repainted.
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There are also no other holes in the lower valance.
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Guards must be in the right place then. The holes further out are for the jack load rest. It has a pin that engages the hole.
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That is interesting. So were the bumperettes supposed to be standard equipment on all Camaros and bumper guards the optional alternative?
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My buddy has the optional (extra cost) bumper guards on his 67 pace car.
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That’s right Mitch, I knew that :Blush:
From my understanding all 67s got the small bumper guards. The larger overriders were optional. |
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