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Re: The New, Newer Project Part Tres...
In case you hadn't deduced it already, Samarkand was the name Enrico bestowed upon his SD455 Formula when he bought it in 1973. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/scholar.gif[/img]
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Re: The New, Newer Project Part Tres...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: njsteve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In 1965 we won first overall in the Lake Michigan Regatta running a Glastron V-234 powered with a pair of 409 Chevys running thru MerCruiser Sterndrives. At the time I was 30+"[/i][/b]</div></div>
That would be a neat rig to see today.......... |
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Had a post-Christmas "garage day" and got everything running and warmed up since it was almost 60 degrees and sunny here today. Took the SD out for a spin and it seems like everyone else had the same idea as well. Hanging out at Al's Auto Care in Flemington with a 1970 Challenger R/T, a 1966 Charger, a 1965 Buick Riviera GS with 421 and dual quads (in the garage bay).
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...27_132524a.jpg And then took another ride around to look at the scenery. She drove very nicely today. I forgot how much fun it is to ride in a 310 horse open sleigh. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img] https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...27_154627a.jpg |
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Very nice and a Buick 425... unless it's turning into a Pontiac. ha
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Sorry about that. Math was never my strongpoint. At least I had two of the three numbers right! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]
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Steve...you still owe me a ride in the SD [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img]
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Well, come on up. Right now it's warmer up here in Joysey than down there in Arizona. I just emailed with Enrico and he said it was in the 40's-50's in Scottsdale where he lives.
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One of these days...Who knows, maybe next summer!?!
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Went out to the garage today and to see if any of the cars would start. Amazingly, everything cranked right up! Gramma's 1975 Firebird, Grampa's 1971 Lincoln, my old '93 Viper race car, and the SD Firebird. I let them all run for around 40 minutes while I attempted to shovel out a canyon in the ice/snow in front of the garage so the melting ice would flow off the driveway this week. The temps are supposed to be in the upper 40's after being in the single digits for the past few months. Come on Spring!!!! 12 days to go! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]
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close to 80 here today,the bird drove great even with the windows down!LOL,Tom
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Hey Steve, the forecast for NJ in March is everyday in the 40s and 50s, yea! Time for some garage work!
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Took the SD out for a cruise night on Saturday. Still runs great!
Of course no good deed goes unpunished. While walking around the garage after getting back, I noticed that one of my original NOS Firestone 500 tires that I have stacked up in storage decided to let go during the winter. This is what awaited me when I walked around the back of my garage. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...2-img_1020.jpg BTW, the photo is not at an angle, this is parallel to what was originally the tread surface. This was one of the two NOS GR70x15 Firestone Radial 500's I found for the car. The three original tires are still doing OK (fingers crossed). These tires have been known to explode on their own even while unmounted. Like a ball of rubber bands snapping, only it's steel cord instead of rubber band. Here's a link to a Corvette forum where one let go inside the fiberglass spare tire tub, under the car: http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...-recalled.html Anyone got another 1973 500 out there? |
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Looks like its fixin' to have kittens ...
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Interesting experiment, watching the internal destruction of the infamous Firestone 500.
Here is how the internal failure looks two months after the prior photo: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...6-img_1263.jpg And a close up with the steel belt clearly showing now. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...7-img_1262.jpg Luckily I have one of the original tires from this car to put back on (on the left). And I figured that the NOS tire would have been safer, that's why I installed it to begin with. Silly me. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif[/img] https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...8-img_1265.jpg |
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Does the NOS wheel still have air in it?
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Ahhhhh....
Put a tube in it and a patch kit... Use it for a burnout contest assuming its an open drive !!! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/burnout.gif[/img] [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/burnout.gif[/img] [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/burnout.gif[/img] |
Re: The New, Newer Project Part Tres...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pxtx</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does the NOS wheel still have air in it? </div></div>
Yes it is still holding some air. I'm gonna let the air out tomorrow. These tires were known to fail without ever being mounted on rims. They are basically donut shaped hand grenades. |
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Wow, scary stuff there Steve..I'd be very hesitant to use them on a static display. When they blow, look out. FWIW, that's a damn cool tire to own. I tried to buy a set last fall off a Vette..... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/worship.gif[/img]
BIG |
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I mounted the original tire back on the rim and took the NOS tire off. Once all the air was out, it reverted back to round and I cant even find where the failure points are any more. That is truly scary!
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Took the SD out for a cruise night last night. She ran kind of crappy on the way home. After a lot of searching, I discovered the end of one of the original vacuum lines had split and was really leaning the car out at idle. I had to clip about a 1/2" of the line off to get past the damaged part. Runs fine now. This morning I put four gallons of 100 octane low-lead and filled the rest of the tank with premium. Took her for a ride and she runs nice!
Couldn't help but stop and snap a picture of today's mileage on the odometer: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...6-img_1292.jpg |
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I was tightening up the lower heater hose clamp to the water pump today on the 73 SD Formula and had to remove the 80 amp alternator idler pulley assembly in order to get to it. So I finally got a photo of the EUN (Engine Unit Number - not to be confused with the VIN), on the front of the block that is hidden by the idler bracket. The car was ordered by Enrico Stein on 05/09/1973, shipped on 07/19/1973 and delivered to him on 07/31/1973.
Here you go: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...1-img_1690.jpg |
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Since we are looking to get the car judged in the Vintage Certification next year I figured it was time to put the original brake parts back on.
When I got the car, the master cylinder was leaking internally and I sent it off to Whitepost Restorations to be sleeved and rebuilt. They offer a "survivor" service where they don't touch the external finish if you alert them beforehand. They did a wonderful job on the master cylinder which then led to me find out that the two rear wheel cylinders were leaking/stuck in the expanded position. Not a good thing if you want working brakes. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbt...opics/539528/9 Just as a quick fix to get the braking system fully operable last year, I bought some new brake cylinders and swapped out all the shoes, springs, and the offending cylinders with the idea that they were only going to be temporary while I cleaned the original parts and sent the original cylinders to Whitepost. After a year or so...I finally sent the cylinders off just last week. Within two days I had them back all pretty and nice. They do really nice work with a quick turnaround. One interesting thing I noticed is that they are the same part number but slightly different castings since one has the "7/8" straight across and the other has it angled. Also the bleeder screws are slightly different as well. Here is what they looked like in their leaky state: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...8-img_1698.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...9-img_1699.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...0-img_1706.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...1-img_1711.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-img_1704a.jpg And when I got them back: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...3-img_1726.jpg |
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I took all the original springs and soaked them in some detergent to get the adbestos dust off them and also scrubbed the original brake shoes as well. I then reinstalled everything today and bled the brakes.
One interesting thing to note about the assembly line installed shoes is how the bonded front shoe is grooved with a 1/2" slot down the center of the lining. The steel portion of the shoe appears to have a green zinc chromate finish on it. (it is kind of hard to tell from the photo since I used a flash when taking the photos). https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...4-img_1745.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...5-img_1746.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...6-img_1747.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...7-img_1748.jpg And with the drums back on. Each drum had two copper Tinnerman clips holding the drum onto the studs. The passenger side drum also had a "GY" sticker on it. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...8-img_1759.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...9-img_1763.jpg It also looks like the brake drums are date coded "6 2 73" and "5 30 73". https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-img_1763a.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-img_1759b.jpg |
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Today I put the original front brake pads back in. The originals are riveted. The front rotors have a really deep factory depth groove that left a matching peak in the pad. Disc has date code of "G 7 3" (July 7, 1973) FYI: the car was shipped on July 19, 1973.
(BTW, the car doesn't stop nearly as quickly now with the original brake pads and shoes as it did with modern braking materials. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/eek.gif[/img]) Driver's side: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...4-img_1764.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-img_1764a.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...7-img_1767.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...6-img_1769.jpg Passenger side. Disc has date code of "G 9 3". https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...8-img_1770.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-img_1771a.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...2-img_1772.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...1-img_1775.jpg |
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Since it was a record 70 degrees here today, after working on the cars and cleaning the garage, I decided to get a photo of our twohttps://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...angrybirds.jpg
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...aimg_1788a.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...aimg_1781a.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...aimg_1782a.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...aimg_1791a.jpg |
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Great pictures.
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Rick's wife Lenora sent me a link to some of Rick's past accomplishents in 1965 with his racing boats. Check out this page of Rick reminiscing about some of his record-breaking watercraft from back in the day - including the L/88 powered rig.
http://www.nationalpowerboat.com/1965-alima-run.htm |
Re: The New, Newer Project Part Tres...
Time to start gently cleaning the car up for the Vintage Certification next November. Up on some truck jackstands so I can get some room to wipe things down on the underside.
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...8-img_2162.jpg I took out the driveshaft to properly clean it up. Here's the before photo. All I am doing is carefully cleaning the grease and dirt off the flanges and then maybe a soak in the Evaporust to see if it cleans the surface rust off the shaft. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...9-img_2163.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...0-img_2164.jpg Here is something interesting: Two different style flanges and two different head markings on the bolts. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...1-img_2165.jpg Here's the soaking tub. A section of plastic gutter lined with heavy poly sheet to hold the liquid around the driveshaft: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...2-img_2167.jpg |
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The evaporust didn't do much on the driveshaft, but did clean the front yoke a little. I think it has lost its power after sitting for a year so I ordered some more.
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I rigged up a better method of soaking the driveshaft without damaging the original paint stripes in the center. These stripes are very fragile and definitely not an oil-based paint. I think they are latex based as they are very sensitive to water. I pulled the soaking driveshaft out of the plastic gutter-based soaking rig as soon as I saw that it was affecting the stripes. This is what I came up with: A 4" wide PVC pipe with one end capped off, tied to my garage banister. The driveshaft fits perfectly inside with 1/4" to spare. I filled it with evaporust a little at a time and would lower the driveshaft down into the tube to see where the water line was. I settled on 1" below the stripes and let it soak for several hours on one end. Every hour or so I'd pull it out and wipe the rust residue off the surface. Once I was happy with one end, I flipped ends, readjusted the liquid level and did it again. It took very little evapoprust to do the process - less than one gallon, as the driveshaft takes up most of the space in the tube.
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-img_2176a.jpg |
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Here's the result after I soaked it with Boeshield wax protectant to keep it from surface rusting: (Ignore the Jack Russell dog hair - that stuff gets everywhere!)
Before, when it was in the car. (I don't know what makes up the darker areas on either side of the stripes - but it is definitely some type of finish on there) https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...9-dsc_0022.jpg and freshly removed: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...0-img_2163.jpg and after: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...4-img_2171.jpg The solution did not affect the oil-based blue and yellow paint marks on the yoke and front u-joint: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...5-img_2172.jpg You can even see the original welding seam where the rolled tubing was welded together. The black paint mark appears to be in line wth the two tack welded weights. Maybe it was a position marking for the balancing porcess? https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...6-img_2173.jpg |
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Here's the u-jount straps after getting the grease off and a quick soak in the evaporust. (Yeah I mixed up the bolts, but got them corrected after the photo was taken). Not only are there two bolt styles but also two strap styles: notice how one strap is actually longer than the other, even though the mounting holes are in the same spots?
Before: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...8-img_2165.jpg After: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...7-img_2175.jpg |
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Steve again comes up with another "solution" [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img]
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And here is the Dog Hair Disseminator Squad being supervised by their official Feline Surveillance Crew.
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-dogznkats.jpg |
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Steve -- I did the same thing ... worked very well. Also, some of the moldings on my Nova had rust on the fasteners -- put them in the tube and that worked just as well. TAZ
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Yeah, but have you found a solution to the dog hair sticking to the car parts, problem? [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]
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Re: The New, Newer Project Part Tres...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: njsteve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah, but have you found a solution to the dog hair sticking to the car parts, problem? [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img] </div></div>
The pets just want to be part of the help! |
Re: The New, Newer Project Part Tres...
That is one amazing turnaround on the driveshaft.
Were you concerned about the liquid penetrating any porosity in the weld seams and filling the tube with Evaporust? I can't imagine those welds were always perfectly done. |
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Not really. I didn't hear any sloshing sounds afterwards.
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The cleaning continues. I have been carefully wiping down the underside of the car with some rags and a little diesel fuel. The diesel method seems to work wonders on the original exhaust system. It cleans the surface rust right up and then slowly evaporates leaving a slightly less rusty looking exhaust system. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]
I found some interesting items on the rear differential after wiping the grease off. It looks like the differental was half-heartedly blacked out on random surfaces of the tubes and the center section before installation at the assembly line. Here is the factory GYC stamp code (3.08 posi) on the partially black painted axle tube. There is also a "191" stamp which could be the date of assembly (191st day = July 10, 1973) which matches with the late July build date of the car. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-dsc_0008a.jpg and here is something I haven't seen before: a yellow ink stamp of the same "191" on the upper webbing of the center section. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...8-img_2177.jpg An orange "G" on the top and bottom of the center section: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...9-img_2180.jpg https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...0-img_2183.jpg Some green paint marks on the upper portion of the axle tube, partially covered by the black paint: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...1-img_2185.jpg |
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