I have a friend who had a KO come off of his car. Messed it up pretty bad.

Yeah......there are plenty of stories as such. Having said that, there is a right way and a wrong way to go about these wheels. IMO a big part is finding wheels and adapters that have not suffered any trauma. The pins on the adapters and holes on the wheels, can get wallowed out. The large holes are for the lug nuts to secure the adapter to the rotor (drum) and the small holes are for the pins. I looked at 4 different sets, before buying the wheels from Mike. These were a really nice set.
https://i.imgur.com/pZ6DvNJh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4WG9DLLh.jpg

Furthermore, the wheel needs to sit flush to the adapter (like any wheel should). It is also key that the adapters are on the correct way. There is a left and right side and it makes a difference.
https://i.imgur.com/Ih7sUL1h.jpg

Lastly, I was given the advice years ago to use the "Mutha Thumpr" lead hammer. This is what all of the Cobra guys use.
https://performanceunlimited.com/cob...ls/hammer.html


Many people try with a dead blow, but it just does not yield the same results. I'll also utilize my lovely assistant (Tracey) to sit in the car, with the brakes applied and car in the air, when delivering the final blows. Often swinging like Babe Ruth. The tone of the contact changes when the wheel is properly seated. I'll then make a discreet mark with a Sharpie on the spinner / cone so I can easily peek at the wheel.
https://i.imgur.com/0SSJdsQh.jpg

Since adopting these practices, I have had no issues with these wheels. Regardless of everything I just laid out, I have the luxury these days of extra wheels and tires, as well as a tire changer to go about all of this. As I mentioned, I'm going to get familiar with the nuances of the car before changing to the KO's.

At the risk of sounding like a know it all:scholar:, there are some principles here that should be utilized with the conventional 4/5 lug wheels as well. Throughout my career in the parts business, I saw more than my fair share of wheels becoming loose or coming off at a variety of customers. Wheel damage, corrosion, proper engagement of the lug nut to the wheel, improper use of an impact gun, torque sticks, etc. are all contributing issues for failure.

I gotta admit, I carry a bit of paranoia when installing / reinstalling wheels and tires. An accurate torque wrench is your friend. I also like to retorque the wheels after about 100 miles. I'll step off the soap box now:wink:

Please accept my apologies if my post here sounds a bit condescending. I'm sure many of you already know much of what I have written. Perhaps even have more to add? (Please do). I feel there is value in revisiting a subject that get taken for granted in the hobby. The thread Steve started some time ago about tires dates is the first thing that comes to mind.

Those are all great percautions, Tim. The lead hammer and applying the final blows with the tire off the ground are important as is marking the cone and spinner. I also believe they have longer lug nuts available for the KO wheels so there is more contact area.

I've had lots of experience with Halibrand KO wheels and I love to wire them, but we can't do that with Corvette wheels.

Yes Tim, the KO's did specify longer lug nuts. I believe I sourced them from the dealer way back when. I never had any come loose but I did re-torque them periodically.

Never used it, but didn't someone market a tool/fixture that slipped over the spinner to torque the spinner without striking the spinner "wings"?

They did and I had one of those tools. IMO, you just do not get the torque like one would with a lead hammer.

That tool is a novelty item. You need the lead hammer and enthusiasm.

As an aside, modern Porsche center-lock wheels are a similar design and the torque spec is 440 lb-ft. A plastic-lined tool with a breaker bar/cheater pipe config isn't getting anywhere near.

A friend had a stuck spinner and purchased the "tool" to remove it. It wouldn't help. I just got the big lead hammer and wacked it until it came off without issue.

I'm killing some time today, as a sore back is keeping me out of action. The sun is out, and thought a few pics were in order.....

https://i.imgur.com/J0IPvRrh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/j8zO4ASh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KCUwNpNh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1jBzI1qh.jpg

White interiors are just magic.

Yesterday I dove into the wonky master cylinder. The back boot was loaded with brake fluid. You could say I found the smoking gun. On the bright side, it is the original unit to the car. GM sourced the master's from Bendix originally. This one being dated the 342 day (Bendix did not cast the year into the casting) which equates to December 8th of 1965. Right in line for a January built car.
https://i.imgur.com/LsL8Y1Hh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sin3jCPh.jpg


I found a decent amount of corrosion on the bottom of the cylinder back by the rear seal. I honed the hell out of it, but it will need to be sleeved. I have new master on the way, so I can get the car back on the road. I'm honestly impressed the car made it this far with it's original master. At some point, I'll get it reinstalled. Spring is in the air here in the northwoods of Wisconsin:biggthumpup: