Trunklid? Scrap metal
Doors? Scrap metal.
Roof? Looks like dogshit. Along with the quarters. If I hadn’t already spent thousands and thousands of dollars doing all the chassis, rollcage, and suspension I’d probably scrap the car and start over.
I’m sort of at a loss right now. It may be awhile before I post another update. I don’t even really want to look at any of it.

I’m really sorry this happened to you. I looked at a gold 67 Z down in Texas about 25 years ago. Car was awesome with Original drivetrain and paperwork. The owner insisted on painting it before selling and wanted the tired original paint removed. Same deal…the blaster warped the entire rust free car. They skim coated the body and got it straight again and it has changed hands a couple of times since above $100k. Hopefully, you can get yours sorted out…

Don't give up on it, yes, take some time to get over it and then start studying how to shrink it back to skim. You can make it better and probably "good enough" for a skim. Finding rust free body parts where you live is like me looking at rust belt crap. The hood I just had body worked was warped from blasting bad enough that my bodyman told me to find something better. I got another hood that looked better, until it was chemically stripped and it was just as bad under all the paint and filler..... :mad2:
I worked the low areas on my original with a heat gun and flame, with refrigerated water to shrink and I got it "good enough" that he was OK with the amount of filler needed to make it presentable. I had the same thing with the right door for my Camaro...HUGE, deep dent right on the center body line in the middle of the door. Bodyman wouldn't touch it. He was amazed at how well that dent came out with some metal tapping and ironing with heat and cold water. It's in final prime and ready for paint.
Be disgusted and pissed as long as it takes and then get back on it...:worship:

Get that beast in epoxy primer asap.I know you don't want to look at it but.....

John

Thanks everyone
Wanted to post a small update with a few pictures using my straight edge to show some of the warpage.
I spoke to the blaster today. He was adamant he’s done a bunch of cars using the same media(60 grit aluminum oxide) at the same pressure(80psi) and has never had an issue. He blamed the heat from the day and that sitting after allowed it to cool and distort. He’s going to stop over this weekend to take a look at the car and see if we can come to an agreeable solution.

At the end of the day I can’t really blame him for some of the warpage. The doors had a little work in them already, along with the quarters. So I can’t say for certain what was there before vs what was caused by the blaster. I spent a little time trying to shrink some of the metal on the trunklid as it’s a good test piece before I try to tackle the roof. Honestly the roof is far and away the worst and what bums me out the most.

I’m going to try and get a coat of epoxy primer on the car in the next 2 weekends if we get a nice low humidity day. Otherwise the only thing I can do is soldier on and try to make the best out of it.

Good to read you are looking at this with a slightly more positive attitude.. :biggthumpup:

80 psi on large panels is way too much in my world. I stay at 45 psi with play sand, which leaves a texture of about 80 grit. Your surfaces appear to have a lot rougher texture than any I do, like the oxide is quite aggressive. Yes, the lower pressure and sand takes longer, but I can do this without warping. He is in a hurry to make profit...

The panels are incredibly rough. I’m interested to see how well the epoxy primer covers it.

It will cover it, but how many coats will it take to do that ? I would be looking for a DA random/orbital sander and 80 grit discs to knock it down. Maybe use the trunk lid as a test for that too.

Knock it down before the primer?

Yes