Yes, go single stage. There is nothing like the original "sheen" that a single stage in these vintage colors versus the way-too-deep, glossy look of modern two stage paints.

Ha. Dave, I knew you couldn't stand to not do something on this car! Overall, it looks reasonably solid. Can't wait to see the restoration go forward!.

Yeah, I know it Phil! Kelly and I have a deal about the Cuda staying together, but nothing says I can't do stuff to it while it's still in one piece! :no::cool2:

More undercarriage and rear wheel well cleaning/scraping to follow. J55 Undercoating option is a pain to remove but it did save the floors and left a pretty friggin' sweet original color sample to boot!!. :biggthumpup:

Cheers
Dave

WOW I love the original purple/violet...

Dave - Contrary to the current urban myths - Shaker bubble could be black or argent in 1970. Lot's of examples of both on good, original cars :)

Good sleuthing on the speedo gear!

Vendor issues on the Challenger hoods. There were bulletins every month saying they will be available "next month".....they finally starting shipping them in April. Unlike it being standard on a Hemi-Cuda....it was always an option on the Hemi Challengers.

Good stuff, Jim. I have to go back in my notes, and a phone call to the second {and longest} owner of the car may settle whether it was a black or argent shaker bubble. I"m pretty sure it was argent, but I'll figure that one out! Can't wait to start on it!!!!

Cheers
Dave

With your spray outs for color matching...
the biggest thing you will probably find is how the metallic "lays out" in lacquer VS Base Clear...
The way it lays changes the color sometimes directly & sometimes on a 45 degree sideshift.
With metallics if you see changes VS original on side shifts they make metallic pigment which will stay the same viewed directly and darken OR lighten the side shift
OR
Stay the same on the side shift YET go lighter OR darker on the direct.

When you roll it over on the rotisserie - get the color scanned by the paint supplier.
Spray out a minimum amount on your card CLEAR it then check... UNDER FULL SPECTRUM LIGHT...

If it doesn't match then figure out where the problem is... side - direct - color - etc and get the appropriate tints and a good gram scale

Pour off your scanned (known mix) into 4 jars jars, make every jar the same amount BY USING A GRAM SCALE.
Example:
PROBLEM ~ too dark side shift -
I would make up 4 jars with 50 grams of mix color -
JAR 1. add .5 grams of the lightening side shift - 1% - spray out... too light,
JAR 2 add .25 gram - spray out - - too dark --- split the difference.
JAR 3 add .375 grams - spray out ---

This is how I did the last 3 and matched the original Lemans Blue, Cortez Silver, and original Light Copper Metallic.

As you can see by the photo of the Cortez Silver... 2.5 g 806J / 432.8 g of code mixed = somewhere just over 0.5% per volume.

The jagged line down the center is a ripped tape line.

LEFT ORIGINAL Code 69 Cowl sides 1969 SS Camaro 12C ---------------------- RIGHT Chromabase spray out clear coated - for match.

IF one of the jars with tint does not match, it should not be modified to attempt to achieve the match. Adding an accurate amount of tint to a sample of which the volume is not ACCURATELY weighed will not yield a duplicable result.

I should have posted a photo of the end result... here it is.

Wow! What an incredibly insightful post! Thank you very much for that information. With a relocation coming, when I'm ready to paint, I'll be searching for a new supply house for the paint materials and hoping the guy with the scanner can get a good match. Excellent info!

Cheers
Dave