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-   -   My "shop find" Bullitt Stang! (https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=139149)

A12pilot 04-06-2017 10:21 AM

And yes, all the red oxide was sanded off for a clean, metal to metal surface to weld up against. And notice the car in relation to the other, NICE, car....."No Bees were harmed in the filming of this floor pan installation":biggthumpup:

As I'm researching more into the Mustang Realm, I've found a few cool things that were changes mid 68. Notice the real side marker bezels on my car. They consist of a reflector and a surrounding painted bezel. Sometime around February due to a strike at Ford and a cost cutting measure, 68s switched to the 68 Cougar side marker bezel. Also, early in December, the lower center dash pad, commonly called a knee pad, was removed. March timeframe, the A-Pillar trim pads were removed. My car was a late December build. I have A-Pillar pads, no knee pad, and the reflector and bezel, non-Cougar, style rear side marker.

Neat stuff!!!!!:smile::smile:

Cheers:beers:

Dave

HawkX66 04-06-2017 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A12pilot (Post 1348201)
Although owning my own Fred Flintstone mobile is tempting, I figure for safety purposes, I better install a floor. So, in goes a one piece pan! Easiest was to install this was on the lift from the underside. With the doors on, no way from a geometry standpoint(and I'm no good at math...I'm gooder at English:hmmm:) that was going to fit in that tiny opening. More pics on the camera and these are just a few from the phone, but the floor has been in and out several times to drill plug welding holes, and it's the only way to install a full pan for sure!:biggthumpup:

Here's with the pan laying in, screwed down, and a few welds in place to make sure it's aligned correctly. I used a torch and a hammer for persuasion in some areas to make sure no gaps and sheet metal screws cinched it up perfectly! Last one piece I installed was a 68 Convertible and of course, that was nice and easy form the top!:biggthumpup:

Today I'll finish the welds, grind smooth, prime, and seam seal. After that, gas tank comes out for a small rear crossmember patch, and I'll start in on the lower driver's quarter panel patch. That'll be it for the rust on this one! I'll have it disassembled and off to the blaster at the end of the month! :shocked: I think I may be the first person that has already registered for MCACN 2018!!!!:hmmm::biggthumpup::crazy:

Cheers

What a difference a one piece makes. I did the same on my 69 Camaro. Nice job on both the Mustang and your Mopar machine.

JRC99 04-09-2017 12:35 PM

May I suggest CLR for the roof? Just to see how well it works?
Is the Day 2 exhaust staying on the car?

Woj 04-11-2017 03:22 AM

I have heard that Dave finally wore out his welder.

A moment of silence please.

Luckily there are many more to be had.

Phil Woj

A12pilot 04-13-2017 01:10 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Yes, Phil, it was a sad day indeed...Please to be redirected to comment on Ginger's passing in the "Lounge" section at your leisure....

https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=142339

But, moving on, before the unfortunate passing happened, I was able to get the floor welded up! The Stangatang is about 95% rust free now!!!!:biggthumpup:

Cheers:beers:

A12pilot 04-16-2017 10:52 AM

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Floor in, primed up, and now I'm onto the remaining rust parts. A small patch on the lower driver's quarter panel, and part of the rear brace that the gastank mounts to, and the car will be rust free!:eek2: After I pulled the tank I removed the sending unit. It's a rather unique one since it has the low fuel warning sensor on it. I'm going to send this out for a rebuild which, surprisingly, can be done and even more of a shocker is the fact that the float arm still moves freely!!!:smile: But, meanwhile, back in the trunk, I noticed a nice factory curtain that might have got past Quality Control:biggthumpup:

Ford..."Quality is Job Run!":tongue::tongue::tongue:

I also laid out the exhaust system that came with the car. Part numbers still on the pipes to boot! Although I can't seem to reference them based on those numbers. I thought it was for a smallblock 289/302 since the 289 is in the part number, but they mate up to the factory 390 exhaust manifolds.:dunno: They aren't going back on the car, but it still would be nice to know what vintage they are.

Cheers

A12pilot 04-17-2017 09:28 AM

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In continuing the continuation of continuing on, I continued the teardown of the Stang after welding up the lower back quarter and rear trunk brace/gas tank holder down thingy. I know, pretty technical terms I'm throwing out here, but I've set the trend with another thread, and this type of nonsensical banter is to be expected :thumbsdown: I haven't done a Mustang in a long, long time, nor have a done one with the Convenience Group, so there's a bit more wiring involved which means plenty of pics to lose between now and reassembly:dunno:

Time to get out some plate steel and start making braces for mounting it up onto the twirler!!!:biggthumpup::biggthumpup: And, get out the baggies and boxes to get all these parts up into the storage area on top of the mezzanine, that was JUST freshly cleaned up from Bee parts!:frown: At this rate, I'll never have a clean shop!!!!!:burnout:

More to come.....

Cheers:beers:

olredalert 04-17-2017 01:08 PM

----Dave,,,Id have to think really hard weather to put anything over top of that floorpan. It just looks so nice in the gray with the sealer. Don't cover it up!.....Bill S

A12pilot 07-07-2017 11:56 AM

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Fear not! I have been working on the Stang-a-tang, the Stang-a-roo, the Rus-Stang!!!! With the Bee wrapped up, and having bought another car that needed some immediate attention, I got a little side tracked but now I'm back on track. What track, I'm not sure. Maybe it's the tracks of the Crazy Train for even thinking I should do another restoration!:confused2: But, I've quickly come to realize that if I don't do it, it's not getting done. So time get this thing on the twirler and scrape off some undercoating and start blasting off the old paint/rust/mud dauber homes.

What I've found was a few Highland Green overspray patterns, three different color primers used on the underside, and a few factory paint markings:burnout: What's left after all this? As you can see, a big ole' pile of used up undercoating that weighs about 5lbs. Anyone need any? I'll sell cheap...NOS Ford Undercoating: Just melt down and reapply!!!:eek2::eek2:

Cheers:beers:

Dave

A12pilot 07-07-2017 12:14 PM

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So what next?? Blasting time. And being the cheapskate I am, I decided I'm going to do this myself since the blasters around here are, should we say, LESS than reliable. I masked off my paint booth with some drop plastic and put a few fans in there for dust evacuation. Oh, and don't worry, the Bee was nowhere around (stored in another shop that dust, tool and more importantly, PEOPLE (me) Free!!!!) So far, VERY happy with the results. This was just the first pass to get most of the heavy stuff off. I'll probably have to go over it a few times to get it totally cleaned up. I use two blasters, the one you see in the picture and a hand held Speedblaster gun. They both really work well. It's the compressor that's the probelm. I really need a two stage air compressor to keep up. HEY? I need another tool!!!! :naughty::naughty:

Cheers

Dave


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