Looks good,but that car deserves real molded headrests,not cheesey covers that stand out a mile away.

X2!!!! Everything looks fantastic, tight, and oem....something that is extremely rare to see. It's near impossible to find parchment headrests that need nothing, so the next best thing is find another color and dye them. Done this before with headrests, arm rests, and pads. '69 only color, and '69 headrests are different than the later versions, so very tough to source.

Maybe I can find a couple of good used white headrest and dye them. They do have them new in black only.

Car is still coming along. I took it to the alignment shop hoping things wouldn't be to bad and they weren't. But, after two fellows looked the car over throughly - I ask them to - I do need the left upper ball joint. So that is next on my list to do. And they said there is a slight bit of play in the steering box - but that I would probably never notice it. Car did get a bath - and is looking much better - I even waxed the car after this picture was taken. On another note - transmission up shifts at very low rpm's. With mu foot in it, it up shifts at 3,800 to 4,000 rpm's. I'm not sure about that. Do I need a new governor - need to modify my governor - or is something else the problem?

----That is a good looking 69! someone on the sight will be able to help you, but you could also ask a good local trans shop about the shift point.....Bill S

Change springs and weights in the governor. You can buy a kit with springs and weights to adjust it. I had the TH400 in my brother's '70 Z28 shifting at 7000 RPMs at WOT. He made me change it to 6500. It was a lot more fun the way I had it.

I got the new Moog ball joint put in today - so it will be off to the alignment shop as soon as I can now.

Good to hear. You have it cleaned up and looking REALLY nice now and you can enjoy driving it once it is aligned.

I did get the car aligned and was starting to drive it a little. But now the transmission has to be rebuilt. It had been working great, but the other day when I put it into gear, it took 10 or 12 seconds for it to engage. So the transmission will come out and be rebuilt. Always something with this car .... lol

Sorry to hear:tongue:

Sounds like it's low on fluid. If it was working good and this is a sudden change, check the fluid. The modulators on them are known to rupture the diaphragm and suck the fluid into the intake and burn it, so there won't be an obvious leak.

Yeah - I had hoped that would be the problem, but the transmission was full. Anyway, the trans is out, it has been rebuilt - now to get it back in. That should be soon - but first I'm going to fix a driveshaft safety loop. I have been having a little problem getting the right clip that holds the speedometer drive gear in place on the output shaft. Shop kept giving me the wrong part - but I believe we've got it worked out now and I can get the right clip in the morning. I thought while everything was apart I would get it fixed so the speedometer would read correctly.

Sounds like you will have a fresh trans now. Out of curiosity, did you check the fluid level with the engine running or turned off?

Jason

Running - with the engine and trans warm.

So I did get the right clip to hold the new plastic speedometer drive gear in place - so that all worked out. Next I installed a kit from B&M to recalibrate the governor. I wanted a higher RPM upshift. And I used a kit from TransGO to reprogram the valve body for a quicker + firmer shift. But the trans is still sitting in the floor - I've got to get to it.

Hey, you made progress, more than some do. You'll get it in...:headbang:

Well the transmission is back in. Don't know why but I had to re-adjust the shifter cable. Trans work good so I'll try and get out drive it some and enjoy it for a while. That will give me a chance to tune on the engine and try to get the best performance. Now on the getting the gears changed it the rear end.

Sorry I didn't get to bring my Chevelle to the SCR. I didn't have the new rear gears in, but then I wasn't feeling the best and didn't feel like I could load the car in the trailer and all anyway. Maybe next year - I hope.

The 3.73 gears are sit-up in the rear end now. My neighbor finally got to it for me. Now to pull the 3.08 rear end out and put the 3.73 in. Should have it all done in a few days. I know I'm slow at times - but I keep moving in the right direction.

Are all the bushings good in the rear suspension ? May as well address those, while it's out.

Thanks "Too Many Projects' .... Yes, all the control arm bushing have recently be replaced (Moog) - and we put two new bushing the housing now going in. Hopefully by Wednesday it will all be installed. I'm really hoping I can take the car to the Pure Stock Muscle Car Races in Michigan in about 2 weeks - wish me luck

I've been working on getting the transmission governor re-calibrated so that the trans will shift where I want it to. Lots of fun playing with 6 weights and 6 springs - there's a million combinations. Looks like in the end it will be some combination of getting the governor calibrated and me making the 2-3 shift. But I'm much happier with the trans now than when it just had the stock shift points.

Well the 3.73 rear end is in the car - and the fluid leak associated the rear pinion seal has been fixed. Seems they sell you a seal for a 12 bolt truck rear end now instead of one for a car - Oh well, it's fixed.
I will load the car today or tomorrow for the trip to the Pure Stock Muscle Car races. Don't know what the car will do but I'm sure I'll have a good time.
I'll let everyone know what the car runs when I get back.
Hope to see you there !!!!

Almost all of the pinion seals that you get now are for the 12 bolt truck rear end. Some of them are deeper than others. I've had to leave some of them sticking out about 1/8 inch on car housings because the rubber seal makes contact with the outer pinion bearing. I believe Ratech sells the correct car seal, but I haven't used it.

Yes - we did all of that. Even tried a different used pinion yoke the second time. Looks like I will have to get a new pinion yoke, and another new seal.
Looking on Ratech's site - they list the same seal for both the car and the truck. They don't list a different seal for the 12 bolt car. I may call them, or email them, and ask about it.

That's still the truck seal.

Are you sure, Fred? I used that one and it fit like the original.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-6109/reviews

Yes I'm sure. The original car seal did not have the flange on it. It was more of a cup shape, similar to the axle seals.

Thanks, Fred. As for the correct appearance, you are correct.

But, it is not the truck seal. It is a replacement part that works as intended.

The truck seal does work in the car housing. It puts the rubber lip in a different location deeper in the housing. As long as it's not too deep it will work with no problems. Some of them are made too deep and will cause problems. You just have to be sure that you check it when you install it and be sure that the rubber is not making contact with the bearing.

Agreed, Fred. I post this photo solely for future reference.

Tom,
How did you make out at PSMCDR?

I've ordered a new pinion yoke, the Ratech seal mentioned above, and a new pinion nut. Hopefully this will solve this issue.
I did tape a paper shop towel to the bottom of the rear end and take the car to the Pure Stock Muscle Car Race. Changed the shop towel out once while I was there, but it wasn't leaking very much. Someone spoke to me from this list, but I was in a hurry, seems like I was always in hurry while I was there, and I didn't get his name - I would like to thank him for taking the time speak to me.
The car did well for what it is - and it's first time at the track. I got a best of 13.90 and 99 mph. I won about half of the races i had - but I lost my shootout. Over all I had a lot of fun and learned a lot.
Now after I get the pinion seal leak solved - I got to do something to stop the wheel hop. The wheel hop really affected me trying to do a burnout, and how I could leave the starting line. So, more to do yet.

Are you using thread sealer or RTV in the splines in the yoke when you install it? If you aren't then you probably have a leak coming through the splines. You always have to seal the splines, but do not put the sealer on the pinion. Always put it in the yoke. If you put it on the pinion then you will push the sealer into the outer bearing when you install the yoke.

Thanks Freddie - yes the mechanic doing the work for me has been putting thread sealer on the splines. I feel the problem is just that the yokes are worn where the seal rides. Also, in looking to see just where the fluid is coming from, the area around the pinion nut is dry. The fluid is leaking off the bottom of the dust cover on the yoke.

----Hop stop bars will kill the hop. They will change the instant center. You won't even know they are there most of the time, but no more hop. Research it so you are comfortable with the idea!....Bill S

13.90’s is great considering it was your first time out with the car and it isn’t sorted!

Does your car have red lines and small hub caps?

If so we shook hands and talked for a couple minutes at your car. I thought your car might have been one that Dan Vasic restored as the theme was so similar and they both ended up with dark blue license plates BC and Connecticut?

Ryan W31

Thanks Ryan, yes that was/is my car and I do remember talking to you. Thanks for spending a minute or two to speak with me - I appreciate more than people know.
Bill S. (Old Red Alert) - I have been looking at the Stop-Hop bars. Some also call them traction bars. Some say that they work but make the car ride harsh. It looks like I will probably be getting a set after I get the pinion seal leak fixed. Thanks for your input on this issue - I value it more than a lot of the ads.