RadonSeal. Not worried about Radon; but like how deep it penetrates.

Interesting web site. I may be ordering some of their concrete cleaner when it warms up. I can buy the sealer at the local Home Depot, but they don't sell the cleaner in stores, which seems odd.

Don't waste your money on the concrete cleaner. Didn't work well for me.

This project is just kicking my arse.

I was reading the label on the RadonSeal Standard. Said if the concrete had been power trowled, I would need to etch it first. So, bought four gallons of the power etch. Started on that Saturday, but four gallons only did half my workshop area (about 1350 feet). The etch did work well, and the surface was noticeably rougher, ready to receive the sealer. The sealer is a siliconate penetrating sealer.

Followed the directions with Sherri's help. Only thing I didn't do as directed was to "rinse". I wasn't sure if rinse it off meant a hose, but I wet mopped it off. What was left is a chalk looking residue. It is very hard. I went over it with a power floor scrubber using a white 20 inch scotch pad laced with diamond bits. The one pic where it looks like I am finally cutting through the white topping is a result of 10 - 12 passes. At this rate it will take me a good 40 hours to get this stuff off. I guess eventually, I will end up with nice shiny floors. I wrote to customer support this evening to see if they have any solutions for taking this stuff off. It is very hard. I suspect I did not "rinse" it thoroughly enough, leaving this residue.

Even then, the floor scrubber doesn't go right up to the edge of the floor; so that will have to be done by hand somehow. I have a Bosch concrete grinder, and am looking for an adapter so that I can mount a scotch pad. Anyone aware of such an adapter for a Bosch CSG15, five inch concrete grinder?

Grinder currently has a diamond cup wheel on it. Way to aggressive for this task.

Pics of the floor.

Sorry to see this isn't turning out as you planned/wanted.

I am sure I will get through it. They think that it interacted with the etcher because I did not hose it off. I just mopped it off twice and didn't put anything on it to neutralize it.

Has to be mechanically cleaned off. Haven't had time to look for a scotch pad adapter for my concrete grinder.

I know you will, Lynn. It's just another laborious, time consuming learning experience.
aka major PITA.....:frown:

The company says this is cosmetic only, and that I can go right over it with either epoxy or a polyurea product. That may be easier than trying to remove it. And, IF I want such a floor, now is the time.

That is what I was going to recommend. An epoxy sealer and you are done

Still making progress on the shop, and even working on cars quite a bit. The floor situation is what it is. I have a couple of floor cleaners that I fitted with aggressive scotchbrite pads and every time I go over it, it gets a little smoother. Should eventually be a polished finish.

I wasn't planning on purchasing a wheel balancer or tire mounting machine, but this pair came up for sale on the Public Surplus Auction site (along with some other useful things) in one lot, and I couldn't pass up the deal. Made in U.S.A.

Have not used the tire mounting machine yet, as it needs to be anchored to the floor, and I am still undecided as far as where to put it. Pretty sure it is going to go right about where I have it in this picture. I have tested all the functions, and everything works. No bad solenoids, no air leaks. The top arm is disassembled in this pic, but it only takes a couple of minutes to re-install. Kind of top heavy with it on there, so I am waiting until I get it anchored to re-install.

As for the wheel balancer; boy am I glad I got this thing. With 16 cars, seem I am always purchasing tires on line, then dragging them to the local repair shop for mount and balance. I have NEVER felt like they were getting balanced quite right. It doesn't matter how good the equipment is if the operator is a dim wit. My son just had new Michelins put on his Suburban, but was complaining of vibration on the highway. I balanced all four, and could not believe how out of balance some were. Same thing on my Yukon XL. Same thing on my old Biimmer. The BMW especially, as it has alloy wheels that will not accept hammer on wheel weights. I learned back in the 80s how to "fool" the computer balancers (used an old Hunter back then) and do a true two plane dynamic balance on such wheels. This new balancer has settings so that you don't have to fool it. The difference on my Bimmer was amazing, especially at 100 mph. Smooth as glass.

It is really nice NOT to be at the mercy of incompetent repair folks.

If you do not have them, get yourself a set of pin plates. It mounts the wheel lug centric as opposed to hub centric. Older wheels are not always hub centric, and some newer wheels (or aftermarket) do not have a proper surface to mount the wheel. The balance job is only as good as how it's mounted to the balancer.

The tire equipment is some of the best money I have spent (only second to hoists)

Happy for you that you got the tire equipment. I bought my old pair 10 years ago and have used the crap out of them. I was buying older wheels with junk tires at swap meets and having the tires dismounted at a local Walmart for a few dollars. Osha passed a law back then that they can't touch any tire more than 10 years old, as they may explode or come apart as the tech is handling them and cause an injury. I took 2 tires to them that were flat and the beads were already broken to remove and they still wouldn't slip them off the wheels. They claimed if they got caught doing that the Osha fine was thousands of dollars. Another controlling oversight of big brother gone awry. That was the turning point of me getting my own equipment. As you say, having the wheels properly balanced has been a big benefit of that purchase.

Ever start a "clean up" project that took about 10 times longer than expected? Of course you have. I have had this old Craftsman box for over 50 years. Bought the top box in 71 from a co-worker. Then bought the bottom box the next year. Used it professionally until I got out of law school in 1990. Can't believe all the crap (non tools... you know, the little parts you think you might need next week, or in my case next millennium) that I accumulated in that set.

In all this time, the sliders have never been removed and cleaned. I emptied every drawer, took it all apart, removed all the sliders and cleaned them up in the solvent tank. Lubed them all up with a good graphite grease, and finally got it back together Sunday afternoon. It is beat to hell, but all the drawers slide easily now. As you can see, I also put new wheels on it. One of the swivel casters had not ball bearings left. Didn't swivel too well.

BTW, the stickers were already on it when I acquired it. PO raced an L78 Nova. I think it was a 68 that he bought new when he returned home from Viet Nam. Could have been a 69. I picked up the 1977 vintage SO box because I thought they would look nice together in my 1919 shop.

And no, I still don't have all my tools back in the boxes. Should get there this weekend.

BTW, Mitch: "Osha passed a law back then that they can't touch any tire more than 10 years old, as they may explode or come apart as the tech is handling them and cause an injury."

That guy was full of crap. Probably just spewing the company policy. There is no such law. There is an industry standard against putting 10 plus year tires back in service. Shop would be exposing itself to some liability if you brought in old tires and they mount them. Or you brought in an old tire and they plugged it. There is no reason they can't dismount and discard an old tire. If that were REALLY the law, then how would one get new tires put on an old vehicle?

Pretty much my thought at the time too, but I was turned down by a local tire store too with about the same story ?? But, that's OK, as I pursued getting my own and never looked back.