A carry over from my Old shop was this Campbell Hausfield 80 gallon two stage compressor. It worked great for me for 20 years. We had it moved to the new shop and installed in the "compressor room".

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...s2mu3bcmr.jpeg

It got hard use in the first year at the new shop with a lot of hours sandblasting,and the wear and tear started to show. Aside from the water in our lines we were getting blowbye.

Decision to replace: Lloyd had a hankering (hankerin) for a rotary compressor, super quiet and lots of capacity. Upon shopping around we found we could get what we needed for our budget but were advised against it due to our sporadic (limited) use.
We opted for a 10 HP,120 gallon horizontal tank and a Boge refrigerated dryer.

New baby arriving:

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...sfyjcmqtx.jpeg

Notice the made in Canada flag.

One of the challenges was getting it out to the back of the building where the compressor room was.
Plan A was to move the car under the stacker and move the unit with the forklift. The forklift was 1 inch taller than the highest clearance of the lift. Letting the air out of the forklift tires was out of the question and they were solid rubber.
Plan b was to move the compressor over the lift by narrowing the pathway. This was done.

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And the move was complete, next step was to get it in the room. The new compressor was specked out for clearance and we only had one inch on each side to get it through the door.

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Within 2 hours we were up and running with volumes of clean dry air.

My GOD you are going to love the drier...
I love having one and clean cool dry air is so pleasant and doesn't wear out your air tools near as quickly.

Not to hijack the thread; but school me on dryers. I see many compressors with driers, most are not refrigerated. How effective is a non refrigerated drier? Seems if it were big enough, it would bring the temp back down close to ambient. I thought about using an old A/C condensing unit (with a bad compressor.... just bypass the compressor). Run your air into the condensing coil and back out into the compressor tank. Wire it up so the fan kicks on any time the compressor is running.

Stupid idea? Not worth the trouble? I guess back to my original question, what I really want to know is if a non refrigerated aftercooler/dryer is even worth the effort. Or does it have to be refrigerated to be effective?

Thanks.

Thanks James and Eddie!, the shop project has come a looong way since you (Eddie) visited us last summer and we're getting close to the end of our rehab of the exterior envelope, the Brooklyn RS Z/28 is getting some renewed attention...and I'm looking forward to getting it in the shop to start the assembly and more component restoration in the fall!

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That's a real healthy looking z28 you are working on & your shop looks like a very comfortable place to work in . Will this Z have white or black stripes.

Thanks Marc, as the Z is Hugger Orange with no vinyl top the stripe callout is white.

WOW your 69 is looking GREAT, I didn't realize you were so far along.

hugger orange done right is very stunning!

great work!

Ok ,Back to the shop, where we left off was finishing the outside of the building. Next steps were to create two tracks to allow access and revamp the front landscaping. The revamp included a new walkway to the front door.

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Followed by the new tracks for entry to the parking bay:

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The city would not alter the front curb as there is a engineering spec for a lot our size to only have one driveway entrance, so we have to live with race ramps to mount the curb.

Base rock and cross drainage:

https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/...sz2pbvcvf.jpeg

Let the pour begin:
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Next steps were replacing the lawn with a less maintenance product River rock.
We estimated 4 yards and it took six, thats 18,000 pounds if you need to know. Hired a couple of grunts to do this.

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With access to the new front room,it was time to put down the new floor. we went with Swis Trax as they were local. Grey and black pattern was chosen and the plan to do the entire parts room and entrance way in the future.
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/...smsd8dl63.jpeg

This stuff is easy to install and was down in 3 hours with all trimming.

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with base trim installed:

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After six months of construction (weekends only) I was finally able to get my parts shelves into this room.

https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/...skcrcpztd.jpeg

Looking good from the curb.

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And a novel idea, park a car in there.

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Nice work Paul and Lloyd! :biggthumpup:

Me like Paul!!! :laugh: Nice catching up with you at the show. LOVE LOVE LOVE you guyses shop!!!!

:biggthumpup::3gears::biggthumpup::3gears:

Sam
Glad to see you at the show as well. Lloyds Camaro comes into the shop next week, so timing is everything!

Since we're almost finished the front of the shop we decided to add some landscaping for contrast. Once they settle in we'll trim the Yews to shape in the spring. We still need to build a small retaining wall at the property line to contain the stones.

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4807/...34a8fc24_c.jpg Lloyd Costley

I'm beginning to think that no work is going to happen in this place.....maybe a front for a strip club?

I think i see a pole there disquised as ceiling support.....just saying!!

“gentleman’s club”.

The shrubs came from one of Lloyd’s “hedge funds”

I would expect nothing less!

Dad joke...

Some of the Z/28 arrived at the shop today! Just in time... Since we like woodworking so much I'm going to rebuild the flimsy buck and add casters

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Nice snap on set up!

Tools
 

It’s called a tool condo!

No kidding! I just bought my first Snap-on a couple years ago, already full!!

Hugger Camaro
 

Great talking with Lloyd and Paul at MCACN, Lloyd, hope we see this cool Z come together with a......BUNCE..... of pictures here..:Can-I-Have-It:

Mike

Built a new, more secure buck and added locking, swivel casters for mobility. Transferring the clip was a 3 guy job, 2 guys to lift, carry and relocate the clip and a third guy to yell "careful!, careful!, careful!"

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Very cool! Looking awesome!

Where did you get the wood on back wall behind tool box ?

Its Canadian red and white cedar S1S2E in 1" x 6" planks that were edge (rabbet) jointed then edge nailed. It was sourced mostly from a local building supply store, Dicks Lumber.

Ha ha! Good one. "Third guy" is usually the owner of the car or the one who will have to fix the goobers when the moving job is done!!!! Love the vintage style lights!!!

Latest piece of shop equipment arrived on Thursday. Haven been smitten by the beautiful results of vapor blasting, we took the plunge and ordered a system in November. A 6 week build wait and our unit shipped late January. Got the machine to our shop And did the setup and test today. Results are amazing. Will be posting more before and after shots.
https://i285.photobucket.com/albums/...sh3l0bfmq.jpeg

Lots of cool plumbing.

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Nos disc brake pad with some surface rust
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And after Vapor blasting.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...sfhkivent.jpeg

He're Paul on the maiden voyage of the VHT VH800P FL Closed Loop vapor blaster, it does produce some impressive results. The machine was made in Lincolnton, NC and was in transit for about a week during its 2,900 mile trek to Blaine, WA.. It must have encountered some cold temperatures along the way because it arrived with freeze damage. It is tested at the factory and wasn't fully drained prior to shipping so the hose nozzle split and one of the pressure T-fittings also cracked and spewed water on startup.

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Freeze Damaged T-Fitting
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7824/...a71c57cb_z.jpg
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Freeze Damaged Nozzle
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7924/...c010c672_z.jpg

Wow, unbelievable results. Congrats on the new toy! :smile:

loving it!!!!!!!!!!!

can i have it?

The vapor blaster produces a very clean, sealed surface on cast iron and steel leaving a burnished-like sheen. For most applications this is fine however with cast iron its a brighter finish than I prefer so IMO cast parts need to be treated to dial-in that brown-gray fresh casting color range. Following vapor blasting I use a semi-solid oil and, in the case of spindles and steering arms, bake them at 400 degrees for about 90 minutes to achieve the fresh cast look. As the oil bakes into the cast it heat seasons the metal and also serves as a natural rust inhibitor.

Freshly vapor blasted spindles and steering arms.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7888/...c0b1f19e_c.jpg

Baking in the "Easy-Bake" oven
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7901/...025f1961_c.jpg

Before and after heat seasoning (The seasoned spindle appears much darker in the photo than it does in person)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7889/...37ff961d_c.jpg

Heat seasoned steering arms
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7860/...8c5a1dce_c.jpg

I hope Sherrie was out when you used the ovens for your baking party?

To keep the peace my Easy Bake (read toaster oven) is for use with parts only.

Those parts are heat seasoned just like Nanna used to make :-)

Lloyd: What is semi solid oil?

Ryan W31

A semi-solid oil is any (non-contaminated) oil that isn't a fluid at room temperature. For example, motor oil is not, coconut oil is a semi-solid. I happen to use coconut oil which comes in a paste form in food grade however other semi-solid oils work as well.

Learn something every day, never heard of such a thing.

Ryan W31

I picked up the technique from a couple of sites that deal with cleaning and restoring cast iron cookware like frypans - seems there's a web site for every pastime. More or less the same material so the process was transferable.