Re: old school tunnel ram and carbs question
 

There was a '66 Chevelle in Car Craft in late '80's that ran 450's and the guy said they ran good.

450's would be fine for street cruising in a 454.

Re: old school tunnel ram and carbs question
 

No argument with the balance tube Whitetop. They will certainly make the transition of the secondaries opening smoother. It should not influence the way they close since they close mechanically.

To clarify the liquid line mod, it is not changine the fuel pressure to the carbs, but restricting the fuel flow through the metering block circuits. If you remove your front fuel bowl and then take the metering block out and look on the back side that faces the carb body you will see the liquid line. It can eaily be identified by the only pair of small circuits (holes) which are side by side. One pair on the right and one on the left. It is towards the bottom of the block.

Restricting the liquid line is a tune I like to do on the popular 1850 600 cfm carbs. I did run a pair of 390's on a X-Rammed 327 with the 327/350hp cam. When we swapped them out for a pair of 600's I modified there was a noticable improvement in drivability on the street and ET at the strip. I'm not trying to say it would improve on every setup. I did have better result with 600's over stock 390's on the cars I tuned.

The old 4295 Holley's that were the compliment to the Z28 crossram were 585cfm each and is a lot closer to 600 than 450 is. I think 'ol Smokey U knew a little more about carbs than I do and I'll take his professional opinion that that is the best setup for a little 302.

Summit and Jeggs sell their popular multible carbs kits with smaller carbs than that- so it certainly can work either way. Some like to use smaller carbs, I like to use bigger ones.

I would encourage Musclcar to try and mod the 1850's he has and see what he thinks.

Re: old school tunnel ram and carbs question
 

hey Plowman can you show me a pic of how you like to restrict the fuel on the block...it makes perfect sense this is why we have such a hard time with these at idle on the street...whitetop I kinda figured you were going to say that about the matched carbs..."and this complete set-up comes with our special matched tunnel-ram holleys".. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ins/tongue.gif remind me to take summit off the christmas card list for next year...

Bud.

Re: old school tunnel ram and carbs question
 

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The only other problem I don't like about running the carbs sideways is you have to cut an extra wide hole on the hood the clear the carbs and linkage.

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Leave the hood off and chrome the hood hinges and springs. Then drive around with the hood hinges in the "open" position. Anyone remember that? A noisy gear drive adds to the impact. Suddenly it's 1979.

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https://www.yenko.net/attachments/130467-pimpvert.jpg

Re: old school tunnel ram and carbs question
 

I'm going to try to get a picture up to show the restriction. I enjoyed the picture you posted.

Re: old school tunnel ram and carbs question
 

This is a good thread--Good info all around---I dug thru some of my stuff to dig out a Motion Member--The Ridge Runner----I'm just showing the other side of the coin--- https://www.yenko.net/attachments/130538-ridgerunner.jpg The Ridge Runner Ram

Re: old school tunnel ram and carbs question
 

-- https://www.yenko.net/attachments/130539-ridgeengine.jpg

Re: old school tunnel ram and carbs question
 

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https://www.yenko.net/attachments/130467-pimpvert.jpg

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Uhhh, close but no cigar...

Re: old school tunnel ram and carbs question
 

80's enough for ya..???

https://www.yenko.net/attachments/130751-78camaro.jpg

Re: old school tunnel ram and carbs question
 

Here is a pic of a metering block. I tried to show the liquid line restricted. You can see a non restricted line on the other side of the block. The pencil is pointing to the restricted line. I used a an 0.018" steel wire and bend it in a "U" shape so that it fits in both ports. It is retained by the metering block flat gasket.

I get the wire from just about any parts tag, they all seem to use this wire and are readily available in most shops. If you can change a powervalve, you can do this mod.

https://www.yenko.net/attachments/130911-600m2.jpg

This shows the wire installed in the two holes the pencil is pointing to as well as another similar wire not installed.