That is not bad at all. I have $35k in my total tear down to the studs remodel (without a new cement floor) on my 36x24 garage and was figuring you were sitting around $100k easily so far so you are doing good.

It is pretty flat here. Nothing to hold back the winds. Just gotta make sure you have nothing that can blow away. I watched one of my folding tables go a 1/4 mile!
If you look up on Google the best weather in the US is Santa Barbara CA. BUT.. the prices there are out of our reach. I would rather buy cars. And CA was getting crazy with having to evacuate from all the fires.

The entire back wall will be covered with 5-ply plywood. About 22 sheets of 1/2" at a cost of about $2,500. So that takes care of 50 feet top to bottom. That will also help slightly with the R rating and help with the temp. control some. 1/2" plywood rates at about .062. So that is another 5/8ths of 1. You also pick up a little R rating with the space between the spray foam and the back of the plywood. It boils down to the U Factor. What amount of heat/cold transfer is able to pass through. Then as time goes by, I will plywood the side walls. We will see... D

Garage looks great so far! To add to the dehumidification comment made in an earlier post, I run a sante-fe dehumidifier a close HVAC friend turned me on to vs running an air conditioner most of the time here in chicagoland. My 24/30 x 50 garage gets by with that dehumidifier most of the time, I hardly even use an air unit. Lot cheaper. Hope you like the epoxy floor info I sent you in a pm. Bob

Just watch for any sparks etc on the sections that are not covered with plywood. Spray foam is flame resistant in most cases, but not flame proof.

Rick,
I am hoping not much more than another 10 or 15K for completion. I did all the plumbing myself. I will do the septic system and trim-out of fixtures. I also have done all the electrical and will continue with that to finish. I will do the floor myself if I choose to go for it. I think I have saved myself quite a bit of scratch so far.

Bob,
I have a dry feature on the mini-split in the garage that works very well. So I may program the new unit to keep it between 40 and 50. The problem with plugging a unit in and just letting it run, like a lot of guys do... IS.. anything below 40 starts to dry out all the car rubber. The optimum humidity for cars is 40 to 50. I would be afraid to set one on high and just let it go for days. I gotta get it figured out. There are weeks and weeks where I don't have to touch anything. Other times of course the humidity is WAY up. Maybe the unit you are talking about has a thermostat to set it up. Power is pretty cheap here. It was 3 or $400 a month in CA, only $142 a month here. Other months a little higher or lower. Not much though. 220V verses the 110V dehumidifier? I will do all the math.

Mark,
I will make sure to take that advice. I might just plywood one sheet up all the way around for starters. D

Curious about the dehumidifier set up. I’m in Mi 1800sf barn, spray foamed, and have considered mini split. There are probably a few weeks in Summer that it gets too hot and so just curious on the size you have and what you do w water?
Thx

Are you tying into existing septic or separate system for barn?

Beautiful shop!!!

Crush,
I have a 36,000 btu Mini-Split in my garage. It works great. It can be over 100 outside and I have it at 72 in the garage. I put it on high before dinner, then head out there and start doing projects in comfort. Same thing in the winter with heat.
The one I bought was MrCool for the garage so I just decided to stay with the same company. As mentioned, it is a 48,000btu unit. It is a DIY unit that comes pre-charged with freon. As soon as you connect the lines and open the valve, the system is live. No need to call an HVAC guy to charge the system for 1000's of dollars. Punch in DIYM248HPW01C27. That's my unit, many choices out there for sale. Maybe Bob can chime in with his model dehumidifier.

Probably just going to do a system at the barn It is 200 feet from the septic. At 2% drop it will be under the tank by the time it gets there. I may dig it up and shoot it and see just in case. But I don't think it's gonna make grade.


69M.. Thanx, getting excited. I now have room for 14 cars between garage and new shop. Good Times!... D

Progress
 

After burying and strapping the 2" flex it was time to pull wire through from box to box, 77 feet total. Rented a Green Lee Cable puller. It was broken. Drove it back 75 miles and used my own American ingenuity. Set-up a 10 foot ladder with a piece of pipe clamped to it so wires could roll over smoothly and down into the pipe. Stretched out all the wire and made sure it had no kinks. Set-up my cordless winch and backed my truck up outside and hooked it to my hitch. Tied a Butterfly knot every 15 feet or so of the pull rope and started pulling. Tore the top part of the main panel off the wall... YIKES!!! Too much at an angle. So I drilled the floor and set a lead anchor with a loop hook. So it would pull straight down instead of out. Worked great! VERY slow going as the winch crawls. I sprayed wire pulling lubricant into both ends every time I pulled 15 feet. I closed the door most of the way and wore a shield, heavy sweatshirt and gloves. This was in case the yellow 3/8ths" nylon rope broke and shot out to hit me. No remote on the winch, so you have to pull the trigger. Took a good hour to an hour and a half but I saw the wire handcuff coming through the box! Pulled it down a couple extra feet. Disconnected everything and put it all away. Wiped all the lube off the wires. Popped in a 50amp for the mini-split and a couple others. Wired it up and labeled it. Went to the new shop and set the short piece of pipe and box. Fed the wires through and wired it up. Now I can run the pig tail over to the disconnect box. Next will be to hang the mini-splits on each end of the shop and run the line sets. It's getting there.... D