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-   -   Cragar ss 15 X 4 5-4.75 direct bolt pattern on Ebay (https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=148984)

Bernhard 05-27-2018 10:52 PM

Thanks for posting.

How was the center section removed?
How do you ensure the wheel is true before re-welding?
Metal is lost from the mounting tab's when it is cut free from the rim.
I also assume more mounting tab metal is lost during weld area prep for re-welding, (the removal of chrome plating from the tabs and rim to allow re-welding).
How do you compensate for loss in mounting tab material?

The above questions are not intended to be negative. They are to clarify the process and what is required to preform this level of wheel restoration.

Thanks
Bernhard

scuncio 05-27-2018 11:35 PM

If you're very judicious when you remove the weld I don't see an issue (FYI I am a degreed materials engineer). Obviously the quality of the weld is important, and I would be building a fixture to ensure the lug plane and rim edge were as parallel as possible.

Bernhard 05-28-2018 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scuncio (Post 1402453)
If you're very judicious when you remove the weld I don't see an issue (FYI I am a degreed materials engineer). Obviously the quality of the weld is important, and I would be building a fixture to ensure the lug plane and rim edge were as parallel as possible.

I have seen some cut the wheels apart on the lathe. What would you consider a good method to use to separate the rim from the center section?
What about using a cutoff wheel with a light touch?

whitetop 05-29-2018 02:46 PM

I had a professional wheel shop do mine. They cut the wheel apart by using a lathe then built up metal back via tig welding onto the remaining steel tab what was lost in the lathe process and then lathed that down to a factory tab would have looked before welding back together.

They used a jig the center the wheel to make usre it was round and also no side play etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernhard (Post 1402448)
Thanks for posting.

How was the center section removed?
How do you ensure the wheel is true before re-welding?
Metal is lost from the mounting tab's when it is cut free from the rim.
I also assume more mounting tab metal is lost during weld area prep for re-welding, (the removal of chrome plating from the tabs and rim to allow re-welding).
How do you compensate for loss in mounting tab material?

The above questions are not intended to be negative. They are to clarify the process and what is required to preform this level of wheel restoration.

Thanks
Bernhard


Bernhard 05-30-2018 02:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitetop (Post 1402619)
I had a professional wheel shop do mine. They cut the wheel apart by using a lathe then built up metal back via tig welding onto the remaining steel tab what was lost in the lathe process and then lathed that down to a factory tab would have looked before welding back together.

They used a jig the center the wheel to make usre it was round and also no side play etc.

Is the shop still doing Cragar rims?
Cost?


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