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Napa, you can also call these guys @ Modern Driveline. They have a T56 package to use behind the Mopar Hellephant motor that make 1000Hp and 950 Tq.
A Hellephant make quite a good more bit Hp and Tq then your 565, and the new Challengers are what 1000lbs heavier. |
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Good point on the length Tim. On my '66 chevelle bench seat, the tunnel mod actually created a slight interference with the center of the seat frame. It's all the way back, since I'm 6'3", and it'll only get tighter moved forward. You're going about this in a comprehensive way, which so many don't. I used an LT1 T56, which added another cost being the $400 conversion flywheel. I was lucky enough to get the clutch master and line with my tranny. You'd also need a new driveline. The speedo is another issue, which is doable on a T56 magnum, but it's not on the standard LT1 based T56, which would necessitate a GPS conversion speedo.
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Yep , Jody Haag is the Man to Talk Too ...
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Once you've powershifted a faceplated trans you will never go back.
G-Force for the win at that power level. G101 or GF5R If synchros are necessary the GF3650 is the best fit for the tunnel and power level Slipper clutch is the key to not smashing teeth even at way lower power levels. All hardcore stuff but you get to keep the Man pedal !! |
Listen . . . . I absolutely kneel & worship at “The Church Of The 3rd Pedal” with my current rides having an M22 RockCrusher & The Other having a Liberty clutch-less 5-speed but I’ve had fast automatics too & they certainly have their place in the world. We all know the quality of Wayne’s builds & that car has a heck of a nice TH400 with a great torque converter behind it. Not to even mention Wayne’s skills & abilities at transmission cooler plumbing that would be a Federal Crime to undo. I’d leave it alone for two giant reasons:
1: It’s absolutely foolproof in its current reliable form & gives you time to point & steer such an incredibly fun, overpowered/undertired beast! 2: It will save you 2.5 years of fiddling with a slipper clutch to even get it halfway right before you just wanna go back to the click-click TH400. This thought also comes with deep regret after looking up at the large transmission tunnel hole for a crazy-looking linkage that’s currently for sale on RJ. 3. Yeah, I’m gone add a third: Good trans, good flywheel, scattershield, GOOD(!!) clutch, driveshaft, etc. = Low 5-figures for parts that will actually live after MUCH testing. |
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Wayne and I chatted a bit offline. He made a solid point if I were to make the 3rd pedal active again, a 4 speed (be it G101A or M23) should allow the use of the trans crossmember and the VERY expensive driveshaft the car has right now. I'll keep you guys posted! |
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I have one remaining thought in the back of my head about the combination in the Nova, and that revolves around Tracey. I have the unicorn of a wife that actually likes these types of cars, and wants to drive them. She could handle the 422 powered 67 Nova (600hp) I used to have, but also made it clear she was not a big fan of the ram rod when I had it in there. While this sounds kind of morbid, I wonder if something happened to me, which cars would she keep? She digs this Nova almost as much as I do. I did get a bit of a stink eye from her when I showed her the M23 with the Long "ram rod":rolleyes2:
She can certainly handle the TH400, and can handle a trans with synchro's. The faceplated thing, that may be where the line is. I have not had a problem with finding my way around synchro tranny's before, I just have not had a car at this power level. I also have to be honest with myself how often I am going to use the car at it's potential? |
Napa, what do you figure this motor is making Hp and Tq wise?
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"I also have to be honest with myself how often I am going to use the car at it's potential?"
I feel this is the first, and biggest, question you need to come to terms with and work from that. Honestly ? I don't see you getting crazy and possibly crashing the car, so using the "potential" will be minimal. If the current engine is not easily and economically feasible to de-tune to a more un-beastly and manual transmission friendly state, pickle it and the TH and install a healthy big block and manual that fits the tunnel and will handle that power level. The only extra cost downside will be another driveshaft to handle 600 +/- hp, torque and critical speed of the rpm the shaft will encounter at the given red line of the engine. You'll always have the beast waiting in the corner for whatever the future holds. Good luck with your decision...:flag: |
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Ok I figured about 760Hp and 730/750Tq.
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Napa, just get put and use that beauty and see how you like it. Wayne built it with drag race inspired driving with the shocks suspension engine and trans stuff. But car will get kicked out of every track for no roll bar or cage.
BUT you could look at Killgore shifters and try their lightning rods? You could shift like a 4 sp, wife can drive it? Just another option. |
We run Jerico 4-speeds and although the company itself is struggling, there are sources for parts. The Achilles Heel in the DR4 is the 3-4 shift fork finger but they are readily available from Magnus Performance in N.C. I’ve dealt with Mike at Magnus and do recommend him. We also run the Long inline shifters and recommend them. As for clutches, I run a McLeod Soft-Lok fully adjustable and the rest of the team uses Boninfante products. Changing that Nova to a bulletproof stick isn’t insurmountable, but it will be pricey. I know the floor is an important part of the equation, but if you really plan to beat the snot out of it as we do, I’d suggest at least a G-Force or even a Liberty. Most of Hemi guys run Liberty stuff and rarely do they have issues, but they don’t have stock tunnels. Lots to consider besides just the trans itself in terms of safety and rigidity, especially if that car doesn’t have a cage (can’t remember for sure, but I don’t think it does). Dropping the hammer with that much power in a car without proper chassis set-up is gonna create a lot of twisting if you get it to hook. Wayne is an old racer, and I’m sure he would agree.
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Not a nova guy, but the second gen novas were built with a b-pillar much should make the body perform like a chevelle sedan, which is a big advantage to the twisting of the hardtops.
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I knew I liked you... :cool2: |
I ran a low compression pump gas 565 Dart Big M in my last 55 Chev that made 732/713 with a T56 in behind it. Out back was a mini tubbed 4 link 9" and the car was tied in with an 8 point cage which helped stiffen it up. Fun street car that ran through the gears in OK fashion if you were banging on it...but clearly, the trans didn't like the power. I had to modify the tunnel for that case to fit too, and now that I am building another 55 with a little less power, I have gone with the TKX 5-speed which really is the best of best from what Jody Haag told me.
Rows like a 4 gear when you just want to cruise, but can bang gears better than the T56 while standing up to about 700hp with no problem. I'll have this one on the road real soon and can't wait to try it out. Running a McLeod hydraulic clutch on this one and a Quick Time bell housing. |
After getting all of the Corvette distractions behind me (at least for now), I can get back on the Nova. While the runaway temp issue had improved, it still was not right. After consulting with a few different people as well as some internet sleuthing, I decided on installing steam vent lines / 4 corner cooling through the intake manifold. As mentioned before, the siamese bore blocks can be a little tricky to cool, to say nothing for getting the air bled out properly.
So, I tore into it. Pulling the intake, drilling the rear on the intake for pipe threads, installing the fittings, and then piping the hoses to the front of the intake. I also installed a spacer between the intake and thermostat housing to relocate the temp sender. Additionally, I drilled a small relief / bleed hole in the 160 degree T stat to help with bleeding the air. https://i.imgur.com/prS6Yqgh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/GLQ1V4eh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4Dmqv8Rh.jpg The cooling system bled out easily, and maintains 180 degrees in the shop with no real air flow. Of course, no good project is considered complete without a road test..... https://i.imgur.com/Whgc9P2h.jpg I am happy to report the car maintains 160-170 degrees on the road, will creep up to 180 at a stop sign. In all, a success! |
Excellent
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Now let's see you overheat the tires........
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Awesome! Can I steal your idea Tim? I have another potentially worse problem child in the works:)
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The Canadian wild fires are at least good for one thing around here, it helps with the lighting for photography. Here are a few from shots I took this morning
https://i.imgur.com/moCKK30h.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4SuHt7Kh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/PaOEPUzh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9N0Rtvgh.jpg |
Thank you for posting the photos. I miss Jane sometimes...W
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