Keep the hits coming!!

Ryan

Perfect, Darrell! Now I think I need a jar of that in the shop! :haha: Speaking of shops.... I'm moving the Bee today down a few buildings to the new, temporary, smaller yet fully functioning, rental shop. So of course, I had to get few shots outside. Wish the sun was out, but at least it didn't rain on the push over to the new digs. A far cry from jumping SF steeets! I think I averaged about 2mph.... but man, with no engine in there, looks like I'm cruising over the streets in the Russian District as the chase begins! :biggthumpup:

More to come....

Cheers
Dave

My God you do some really nice work.

first dibs win the Mustang comes for sale!!

Crush,

I think you are about 8th in line now! 😆

Phil Woj.

Let the bidding begin!!!

Hello Dave

Love the build. Can you tell me approx how many hours you have in body repair and painting alone (not mechanical work and not reassembly of the car)


Thanks Dave

Wow! Thanks, guys! I appreciate the compliments! Dave.... responded to your PM. I'll post up here after you reply. More later this week!

Cheers
Dave

Well..... let's see:hmmm: when the car was down to a shell, metal work was a complete one-piece floor, two lower quarter panel patches, and some minor patches here and there. I'd say maybe 60hrs in rust repair metal work. Bodywork, start to finish, is roughly 450hrs. Remember that roof? :rolleyes2: Wetsanding and buffing would be another 40hrs at least. Then add on top of that another 500hrs to pay someone to fix my screw ups!:bs: But seriously.... I'd say from a shell to finish paint is around the 560hr mark.... plus or minus a little. I know the Bee I had well over 700hrs into it, and actually lost count... but that car is as long as the Hindenburg with as many facets in the bodylines to deal with! "The curves, the lines, there's so many waves, ladies and gentleman...Oooh the Humanity!" Ahem..... where was I? :smile: Hope that helps and understand I'm not a shop.... or a professional ... or even know what the heck I'm doing! Your times may vary.....

Cheers:beers:
Dave

Same here -- labor of love doesn't cost a thing in my opinion ... TAZ

Thanks
The shop who is doing my Mustang quoted me around 275- 300 hours(after metal panel rust replacement) to put the car in various sealers and primers primer, bondo work, get gaps correct etc , materials, paint and buff and install front window and side windows.

I've had people say you can get a quality paint job for 5-6k lol.

What is the rate per hour? I know it varies area to area.

ThanksCurious also about rates.Was watching a car restoring show the other night and they claim 5000 hours were put into the car!!

Shop doing my car = $65 per hour. aprox $20k to paint the car (not including rust repair they did)

I had quotes from 3 other shops and they were all within $2-2500k of each other.

The guys quoting me 8k to paint it worked out of their backyard garage at night..no insurance, no guarantee, who knows what quality of materials, I'm sure under the table no taxes paid, who knows when it would get done.

A friend went this route with his street rod. 1/2 of the way through the guy said he has family problems(divorce) and to come get the car within in 2 days as he was moving out.

Aaaaaallllrighty, then. Out comes the 1200...1500....
2000....2500....3000. And out goes my T11 Vertebrae, triceps, and shoulder sockets. :frown:

And as you can see... I've moved into the temporary shop for the next year as the new digs get built. Here's wetsanded to 3000 and then part of the hood polished up! :eek2:

Cheers:beers:
Dave

So going up close to inspect for scratches...Oh...uh, excuse me. I didn't realize I had something hanging out my schnozer!:burnout:

Cheers:beers:
Dave

PS: more to come in the new year! :eek2:

----Well,,,you used the correct diget!.......Bill S

Booger Green.... appropriate.

Did you find a Ford in there? :-)

Ryan

I knew I had seen that look before!!!

https://i.imgur.com/VAW0g2U.gif

It's not a black 68 Charger, but the chase is on!!:naughty:

Cheers
Dave

https://media1.tenor.com/images/f688...itemid=5406593


Burnout video of the BEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


:beers:

Sand....sand...sand.... polish... polish.. polish. Ugh. FINALLY DONE!! :biggthumpup::biggthumpup:

Now.... time to start installing parts!!

Cheers
Dave

U sir have nailed it! Incredible job

Just gorgeous. I would love to learn the painting craft from you! I'm only good for fogging some semi-gloss black on a firewall...the shiny stuff is beyond my pay grade....

Agreed...that looks Killer!!:beers:

Thanks men! A few guys asked me what I'm using for polish and my process. So, since I'm famous for instructional and edjumacational threads, let me explain what all went down here. :laugh:

Wetsanding goes in stages depending on the amount of peel in the paint. If it's heavy, I start will 1000 or 1500. If it looks like a 3rd grader sprayed it [me:hmmm:], then I may hit a small section with 800 depending on how bad it may be. I was lucky with the Stangatang. I actually started with 2000 and in some spots, 2500 since the clear.... for some unknown foreign reason to me.... laid down flat! I think there was a high pressure system overhead while I was painting. More atmospheric pressure means more weight on the clear creating a flatter finish!:rolleyes2::hmmm::bs:

Anyway, this is the door finished to a final 3000 grit. Nice even sheen. If you see little dots, that's clear that you haven't cut (peel) and more sanding is required. This is the first step... long and dirty... but the results are worth it.

Cheers
Dave

Step one in the polish process is a foam pad with a gritty compound. The kit I use is by 3M called Perfect-It. It's a series of pads and compounds that can make even guys like me know what they are doing!:biggthumpup:

Usually this first step is with a wool pad, but the kit has a foam pad now for step one. WAAAAY less splatter and I don't have foam tumbleweeds all over the shop from the blow-off from the pad.

Here is what the initial polish looks like. Notice the swirls and halos. That's ok. This step just gets the deep scratches out for a uniformity. Not a final step.

Cheers
Dave

This is Step 2. The pad is less coarse as is the polish. Notice the swirls are less...halos are disappearing, and the shine is really coming out. Work small sections at a time keeping the buffer flat. Obviously is the curves you use the tip of the pad, but it's best to use a smaller polisher and smaller pad for more confined spots.

Cheers
Dave

And the final polish. All swirls and halos are gone! :biggthumpup:

I also use a lot of light on the panel when polishing. It really helps seeing the swirls and spots you may have missed.

Hope that helped answer some questions for those who were curious!! More to come....

Cheers:beers:
Dave

:worship:...nuff said....:drool:, carry on.

Mike

I spy a RUPES 21mm Bigfoot...

Awesome! How is the 390 coming along?

Thanks guys! 390 is at the machine shop getting cleaned, baked, bored and stroked! Should have it back at the end of the month. I decided on a mild build on the numbers matching block, a little over stock, bringing the cubes to 416. Since I'll be selling the car anyway, always better to claim numbers matching with the engine actually IN the car than "Yeah, it's the original block but its in the trunk".:hmmm:

Next week Christmas Part Deux is coming with packages a plenty showing up! Mo' to come later this month!!:biggthumpup::biggthumpup::biggthumpup:

Back to work.....:thumbsdown:

Cheers
Dave

Beautiful

Your work just amazes me and I love that Mustang! Of course I really dug the Super Bee too! I'm always looking for you next post.

Thank you Guys!!:biggthumpup: I’m gathering info this week since I’m on the road....and of course, ordering parts! Hopefully late next week I’ll be underway to a relatively complete undercarriage and drivetrain!

Cheers

Dave

Watch "McQueen’s Bullitt Mustang: Found at Last" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/ekfFp8cjRmU

Man........I NEED to see this car!!

Cheers
Dave

Incredible isn't it? So exciting!!!