PLEASE RESEARCH service providers, I nearly sent my pump to Goat Hill 2 years ago until I did research. Not confident with what I heard about GH - I kept it in the box until I was sure about the person I decided to have rebuild it.
After more research and questions = I called Fred Ballard - after speaking with him I was willing to send it off.
I was not at all disappointed - Fred had my pump back to me within 2 weeks. It works great and my car runs better than ever... FWIW when it went bad it sent a bunch of crap into both sintered brass filters in the fuelbowls.

People do more research and googling before going to see a movie, out to a new restaurant or buying a Flat Screen TV then they seem to do before buying some cars or sending rare parts out to be refurbished. No reason for it in this day and age. Car community is strong and at your fingertips for advice

GOAT HILL screwed me............
I sent him Two 70 Camaro Z28 Fuel Pumps
and he did return them with CLEAR ZINC
Lower Steel Bottoms ...NOT Yellow Zinc.....

How can I use these on a restoration ????? and I dont know what
my current options are..........Pay "Fred" To do them over ????

Yes. Pay Fred to do them correct.

This is Fred Ballard. The reason behind the pricing not being dfferent between a "survivor" and a restoration is two fold. When I am doing restorations, I do them in batches and the plating costs divided among a group of pumps make the plating fairly inexpensive and therefore not a factor in pricing. Also please note that the plating is actually zinc dichromate as done originally by the OEM. The colors of the dichromate can vary widely from green to red but mostly in the gold range. I have also reworked my assembly dies to the point that it is hard to tell that the pump was ever apart. Being as I do GM, Chrysler and Ford pumps, the disassembly machine requires different setups. This takes time and effort for a single "survivor" pump which actually takes me more time than doing a group of restorations. Therefore, it actually costs me more to do a "survivor" over a restoration. I am just trying to give everybody options. Thank you for taking the time to read this.

-Fred-

Recent example of Freds handiwork.
"Survivor" work.
That is his number on mounting surface, and you can see the little cut needed

Factory installed pump from "OLE BLUE".
Feb 69 L78 M22 Baltimore car.

Last pic is as sent.
It was grimy- slimy so I cleaned it with brake cleaner.

Looks same to me.

I just sent another pump to Fred for a survivor rebuild.
Great guy to work with.

I know the guy that bought my old 69 Chevelle SS396 convertible sent the original fuel pump (which I had saved but never had rebuilt) to Fred and had it rebuilt. He was very satisfied with the work.

Just for reference, the "little cut" is not a cut but rather an engraved line to ensure the clocking of the fuel section to the casting. It is in a position that is not that visible once installed. The original clocking had pinched metal at the same position and 180 from there for the factory clocking. This pinched area goes away when the machine disassembles the pump. Some of the GM fuel sections are used in different applications but are clocked differently. Therefore it is important to mark the clocking before disassembly.

-Fred-

Makes sense to me as it did not look like a cut.
Was just going with what others told me.

Can say it looks exactly the same as sent and works fine.

It doesn't mind 110 octane racing gas either.