I never did get the pipe plug out of the cylinder head yesterday so I will work on that some more on another day, .... but here are a few pictures of the engine compartment

So I got the new radiator in .... not without a little adjustment .... seems the radiator is about 1/4" to wide, so I had to modify the rubber cushion so that everything could go together. Over-all not bad.
After that I started the engine but I had a couple of gas leaks. This carb is a Holley 83310 and came with the 'metering plate' in the secondary fuel bowl and I bought a Holley kit to convert it to a 'metering block' that you can change the jets in it. That's all well but I had to buy a different fuel line because the spacing is different on the fuel bowl inlets now with the metering block.
The new fuel line I bought is the problem. It was made wrong. Turned one way the lines were to narrow to fit the fuel bowl inlets and turned the other way they were to wide to fit the fuel bowl inlets. So I shortened and re-flared two ends so that the gas line was about the right spacing down from the carb and also fit to the fuel block. Guess I didn't do to good of a job - should have just sent the whole mess back.
I will have to get a new set of fuel lines and hope these fit. But why does everything need adjusting ??

If these don't fit.... they are going back

Rick had the same problem and was able to remove it as shown in this post (#525). https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthre...+yenko&page=53

If you need any pointers on that plug let me know. Have done it 3 times now ....have lots of tricks for it but it's never easy.

Tom, I took apart my 69 L78 Chevelle recently to to have it restored. I had body panel issues and the car needed to be painted.I stripped it to a shell, and have pictures if you need anything. My car is a L78, 4 speed, bench seat, no gauges, Garnet Red, Black interior. Your car has more options than mine for sure.

I'm thinking of having someone weld a short bolt onto the pipe plug in the cylinder head.
Build up the weld quite a bit to get lots of heat into the pipe plug.
But I don't know if I am better to drain the water down in the engine - maybe gets more heat into the pipe plug - or leave the water in the engine while the bolt is welded on.
Any thoughts or other ideas? This is not a restored car, nor am I restoring the car, just trying to get everything working and make it useable.

Thanks sixt9rsx33 I also saw some very nice pictures of a car I believe the427king was doing.

I do have a working oil pressure gauge now. Not without some doing since the car has headers on it.

Still got to find the orange wire (I think) that will make the 'tach' work. There is a piece of old orange wiring sticking out of the firewall. but I haven't located the wire on the new under dash wiring harness.

Tom, The tach wire should be brown and comes out of the wiring harness close to the coil.

Thanks Robert .... I did look at it and you are correct.

So what does the orange wire that comes through the firewall go to - transmission?

Now I will need to find out why the tach isn't working 'if' it is connected.

My back is hurting now - so I will go ahead and try to get the pipe plug out of the cylinder head and hopefully my back will be better.

Orange wire is trans kickdown.

Thanks L72Chevelle .... that makes sense