I made my rounds late last week and over the weekend. I dropped the engine off by the engine builder, and he thought he'd be on it later this week. The transmission is out by Tom, and I would not be surprised if I hear from him today with his findings.

The washer for the commutator and of the starter came in, so I got that assembled.
https://i.imgur.com/ZLIDV99h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NvSge5Kh.jpg

The spark plug tubes and some other small parts turned out really nice with Evaporust in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Before
https://i.imgur.com/izY2vFdh.jpg

And after
https://i.imgur.com/LPQbTUEh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZoXONxCh.jpg

I then turned my attention to the distributor. The bushings feel good, but the end play was pretty sloppy. I had ordered in a Moroso shim kit and got the clearance from .075 down to .0085. I would have liked it a bit tighter, but with the shim stack I had at my disposal, this is where I could get it. The result was confirmed with a feeler gauge.
https://i.imgur.com/KT3iCCHh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oNxpV4Lh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ga5kfbKh.jpg

Before
https://i.imgur.com/5jAsNRAh.jpg

After
https://i.imgur.com/KnyZS8hh.jpg

Tim,

Aside from the full blown high quality restoration’s done on these Corvettes, I’d say the cars passing through the BMC shop are as close to a “Factory New” off the show room floor ….. but with six decades of age added.

I’d much prefer the latter. 👍

Chris

I appreciate the kind words Chris. I've taken inspiration from others such as.....
Darrell Cook
https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=169879
Lloyd Costley
https://www.camaros.net/threads/1969...roject.337897/
Grady Burch / Mike Angelo
https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=140219

Just to name a few.....

I don't know that my work is up to the level as suggested, but I'm always trying to "up my game".

You are definitely up there with all that you referenced. Great to see in a world that just throws things away and buys new rather than trying to fix what you already have to last another 59-60 years.:beers:

This ^^

X2:headbang:

A day with heat, wax crayons, an air hammer, and patience got the job done. You gotta love cars from the Northeast. The bushings in the trailering arms do not look all that bad. I'll get these cleaned up, rebuilt, and reinstalled. I am thrilled with how solid the trailering arm pockets and the frame are in this car.
https://i.imgur.com/Yp4WB1Vh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/d3YsAZah.jpg

I've been working on a few of the not so glorious items. The fuel line had been replaced in the car with rubber hose. No bueno. The problem with these cars? The body has to be lifted off of the frame to install the line as a one piece unit. With assistance from Tim G, I was able to solicit some advice how to get it done. I have one visible clue that the line was cut. The other 2 cuts are really well hidden.

An update on the engine and transmission as well.

The trans was damn near perfect. Gears, shafts, synchros, etc are all in excellent condition. Not that there was a problem, but I am trying to minimize how many more times I take this apart.

The engine is in really good shape as well. The crank will just get a polish (standard size journals), the rods are all good and will get ARP bolts, the bores are straight so just a hone is necessary, and even the cam, lifters, valves, and guides are perfect. So rings, bearings, balancing, valve job, and dyno session (to properly seat the rings and validate A/F mixtures).

I'm told I motor should be on the dyno in 2-3 weeks:burnout:

Nice job on the fuel line, Tim.

Nothing more than a small PSA. Perhaps a bunch of you guys already do this. I blew out the frame rails in the 66 today. This is a byproduct of about an hour. Remarkable what sits inside the frame rails.

https://i.imgur.com/urn4yKvh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ItFdTVih.jpg

That is very minimal for a 57 yr old car. Looks like mice have been in there at some point.
Is there such a tool as a refillable pressure container with a hose and conical nozzle to spray BoeShield in there ?
I cut the right rocker off the '70 Chevelle and got a 2 lb coffee can full of rust, dirt and mouse nest "stuff" ...:eek2:

Really ….. you just blew out 59 years of Original particles from various roadways this Corvette traveled :dunno:

Have a nice chilly day Tim.

BTW, great thorough BaT auction on the Red Roadster!

In the 80’s I worked for the Canadian Co. Rust-Check which is the Automotive Rust-proofing derivative of Boeshield. What we used to apply the product then was approximate 4-8’ pieces of transmission lines w/ airline fittings and product feed on lead end and other ends squeezed/brazed closed but w/ a few hacksaw slits near the tips allowing product to blast out about 180 degrees while under compressed air pressure, lead ends were marked so you knew which direction the spray was pointing to avoid direct soaking insides of door panels etc. Drilling holes big enough for the tubes to fit through, you’d push the tubes in and out of doors/fenders/quarter panels/truck box sides etc while squeezing the trigger and the product would fan out of the slits which resulted in spectacular coverage of areas you’d never gain access to otherwise. Under pressure, product would often blow out the complete opposite side of the vehicle also removing a door panel or inserting a borescope to view coverage success, it was amazing how well the process worked. Also important was drilling A-Pillars near the base of the windshields but above the welds that a lot of cars had then as many A-Pillars were full of water, which you’d of course allow to drain before hitting w/ the product. One more thing, the plastic plugs you’d insert into the drilled holes after process completion were soaked in product so bare hole edges had product on them too.
Boeshield and Rust Check are formulas w/ synthetic oil as their carrier which displaces moisture and reacts w/ metals, rust which is also a chemical reaction, cannot happen at the same time. Boeing was experiencing reactions between the aluminum skins and rivets which would loosen rivets similar to when something freezes/expands, Boeshield reacting stops the metal reactions…same idea w/ automobiles and steel materials using Rust Check.
Lastly, there’s other copy-cat products out there, some very well marketed too but they don't have the same recipe and chemical reactions, just oil doing their rustproofing. Tar products do little good also often block drains, they also electronic devices are more to pretend they’re doing something while what they’re really selling you is a warranty.
Sorry this got so long:scholar:, I started typing to mention the tranny lines for product application.
:beers:
~ Pete

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