Amazing results - most people would have assumed this level of preservation/clean-up was not possible. Thanks for sharing.

Only the insanely stupid would wanna waste their time doing this.. :no:

:beers:



Gonna do a photo dump so I will be caught up with my updates until after the New Year. Thanks again for all the "Thanks" and comments. Hope everyone is enjoying (or at the least tolerating me with my junky Camaro). Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.


Photos 379 - 380 - Before comparison on the left side and the right side after applying some citrus cleaner allowing it to soak before removal.

381 - 383 - After some additional cleaning but before Meguiar's #7 application

384 - 386 -#7 applied

387 - 389 - #7 continued. Still a lot of cleaning to go but baby steps in the process.

Slowly chipping away on the firewall as well.. This has been the worst and hardest process to deal with. Removal of overspray without damaging the original finish. I have been working with everything from Xylene to lacquer thinner to just citrus degreaser to wet sanding to blue and green Scotchbrite pads to rags. I have even busted out the razor blade and had some success with that method as well. I have ordered some plastic razor blades which should be here before Christmas so I hope to have plenty to work on while on my break and hopefully have some decent updates for the thread.

Photo 390 - Firewall as found

Photo 391 - Progress to this point.

I am struggling with the reality of having bare metal on the firewall due to overspray removal and I might consider air brushing in some black into the bare areas but I am not going to jump into any decisions just yet. I have time before any thing needs to be done.

Photo 392 - 393 - More photos of the driver side rear footwell. Still more cleaning required but showing potential.

Roughly 3 days at around 8hrs total of cleaning over the weekend I managed to get the rear floor tubs cleaned along with the remainder of the tunnel. I still need to go back over the pass side forward of the seatbelt retainer but other than that and a few touch-ups here and there I hope to either move back to the firewall and then sub so I can get that back under the car and then begin on the rear of the car.

Photo 394 - Rear tubs before cleaning. Not sure if there is a difference in Texas dirt and TN but this was very compacted. I found success with soaking it down with my favorite citrus degreaser and then gently peeling of the layers with a razorblade on the flat surfaces making sure not to damage the original finish.


Photo 395 - 398 - After removing the majority of the dirt with the blade I hit the surfaces again with degreaser and then gave it a work over with a blue Scotchbrite pad. Once the surface was bare and clean I then coated it with Meguiar's #7.

Photos 399 - 401 - Finished product - I still need to go back and hit the pass side front tub in the photo with the red arrow.

Went ahead and knocked out the passenger compartment last night. Overall, I am very happy with the condition of the floors considering the amount of caked on Texas and TN dirt. Next, I'll move my attentions back to the firewall and then on to the subframe.

Photos 402 - 403 - Finished pass compartment floor. After cleaning with the aforementioned process; I applied a healthy coat of Meguiar's #7. Oh and I received my plastic razorblades I ordered and they seem to work ok for the cleaning of dirt and grease but I'll put them to the test on removing heavier layers.

Photos 404 - 405 - toeboards and front floors.

Photos 406 - 407 - Here are a couple of a good contrast between the red oxide primer and the red paint. Someone asked either here or crg but here it is regardless.

Photos 408 - 411 - Rear of tub.

Dayuum:headbang:

A couple of before photos for contrast.

You are not alone Darrell... The last no-paint preservation project I did was at least 300-400 hours, and in the midst of it I did question my wisdom (sanity??). But the results are worth it!! :beers:

That is an incredible amount of body color underneath. Well done Darrell!

Not much of an update but I am still working on the cowl and firewall (mainly cowl, wiper transmission area) removing black spray bomb, primer to get down to the white for the stripes. Very time consuming but I will update that once I have completed the upper cowl area. But just to have some sort of an update here is the wiper motor clean up.


Photo 412 - 413 - Wiper motor as found. Basically the process citrus degreaser and blue Scotchbrite pad and paying attention to the yellow ink stamp on the can.

Photos 414 - 421 - waster pump was removed cleaned and regreased (sorry failed to capture photos) bolts cleaned as well as washer collars inserts for the bushings. Just cleaned and polishing not replating.

Photo 422 - Finally made my final decision on gauges, tach and rev limiter. Also have a nos Mallory CDI box and Mallory Double Life distributor (not pictured) to help with the Day 2 items.

Photos 423 - 424 - I managed to snag 2 pair of NOS brake pads for the Z and the green car if it ever needs them.

The floors of your car remind me a lot of my 67. What an amazing transformation! Thank you for taking the time to document everything you've done so far and sharing it with us.

Another small update. Since I needed to pull the cowl vent ducts I decided to give them a cleaning as they too had black overspray on them.

Photos 425 - 426 - Duct after removal and before cleaning.

Photos 427 - 430 - Citrus degreaser, green Scotchbrite and then soaked in Evaporust. Finally applying Meguiars Mirror Bright Vinyl & Rubber Treatment.

Enjoy following the updates....great job!

Photo 430 - Horn relay before

Photos 431 - 432 - Relay after soaking and then lightly hitting it with an aluminum oxide Scotchbrite pad.

Photos 433 - 435 - While going through parts on the shelf for the car I pulled the head buckets and trim rings and got them cleaned up.


Photos 436 - 441 - Cleaning process is much like the same as just about everything I’ve cleaned. Citrus degreaser and blue/green Scotchbrite pad. Then added 2 original T-3’s.



More coming soon. And thanks to everyone for the comments and “thanks”.

Excellent results once again!!:headbang:

As I mentioned previously, I’ve been working on the upper cowl cove removing the black spray bomb and primer applied over the original paint. I’ll be honest, this was one of the most time consuming parts of this project. Working with anything from lacquer thinner, xylene, to sanding with 1k, 2k etc but ended with the best results using a blade razor blade and a plastic razor blade scraper. Then going over it with a green scotchbrite and lightly rubbing the areas after using the blade to get down to the white. As you can tell this was a trial & error process. After it’s all said and done I’m pretty happy with the results.

Photos 442 - 444 - before photo and during the process of the cowl area.

Photos 445 - 451 - After. If there were still any Doubting Thomas’ out there as to whether or not this car was a real Z I think this should clear any concerns.

Photo 451 - rear axle bumpers with bracket.


Photos 452 - 455 - after cleaning and soaking in evapo.

Nothing real groundbreaking as I collect items to setup for the annual Stones River Swap Meet if anyone in the middle TN area enjoys find old rusty junk. Feb 5th. Now that the plug for the meet is done and I now move on to the one project I did start this week. I've been tripping for this thing for too long.. Bought this pump at the same swap meet a few years back. Anyways, its a 326 pump just wrong date. Plus it has the 3/4" NPT in the top. So I started out like every other item. Citrus degreaser and Scotchbrite pad. Then soaked overnight in Evaporust.


Photos 456 - 458 - Before cleaning.


Photos 459 - 460 - After Evapo bath and you can see that plug is gonna give me issues.


Photos 461 - 462 - I tried almost every tool in the arsenal but nothing would budge that pipe plug. So I said screw it since I had to put an adapter in it anyway I''l just just it off at the casting and drill and tap it. Then I took a small hammer, punch and worked the area over a little and then lightly hit it with a scotch wheel and threw some rattle black on it. I think it'll pass the 50ft test.


Photo 463 - Shout out to Tony (Scuncio)) as I got these off him a year or 2 ago and got them cleaned up ready to be installed on the mouse motor.

Photo 464 - Added more texture. Once it’s paint hopefully it won’t be noticeable.

Nice work! Glad those valve cover T bolts worked for you.

Wow that water pump really cleaned up. Assumed you've tried a torch and soaking in liquid wrench or similar on the nipple? Last resort is carefully drill and retap the threads.

There was nothing there to grab ahold of. The only real option was to drill it out. If it wasn't an iron plug I would have drilled it back out to 3/4" but since I would have to then again add an adapter I chose to drill out the cast piece after cutting it flush. Then texturing the area so it looked original. I realize this isn't really preservation but this isn't original to the car (water pump) so I felt it was fine.

I am going to the Stones Swap meet. Do you have a booth number or a list of for sale treasures that I will recognize so I can stop in and say hello.

Mike

Yep I am in building C spots 107-109. Its on the long sided wall right next to the large rollup door going outside. I'd say I'll be the only one there with a big red beard and ball cap on. No real list really. Some stuff I've posted here and bunch of other junk that's not worthy of some of the cars or folks on this site.

In the midst of getting together for the swap meet I pulled the column and decided to give it some attention. Nothing major just yet but the turn signal arm and flasher knob turned out ok.


Photos 465 - 467 - Before photos of the arm and knob.


Photos 468 - 471 - After a simple soak in evapo and a little polishing with the buffing wheel.

Photos 472 - 474 - Snagged a hex head fitting off ebay and it arrived the other day.

Now that I have some floor space I decided to pull the harnesses out for their cleanings. First up is the headlight harness. As you can see it was pretty dirty but the results are surprising and I feel the harness is in very good shape. I will need to replace one plug connector and a plastic clip but I should have enough old harnesses to replace the items needed. I hope.


Photos 475 - 480 - Before photos of the engine and you will see the engine harness attached as well.




Cleaning was pretty straight forward. As you can see the black spray bomb in certain areas. I will do a final wipe down with xylene before installing but just want to get the majority off while I have the opportunity. Citrus degreaser, green Scotchbrite pad and a microfiber rag to wipe it down.


Photos 481 - 487 - Current stage of cleaning. I will continue cleaning the bulk head connector and continue on to the engine side of the harness.

Couple more items off the to-do list. Clutch & brake pedal assembly and main interior harness.


Photos 489 - 490 - Before soaking in Evaporust and after cleaning with citrus degreaser and scotchbrite pad.


Photos 491 - 494 - After Evapo but before treating with RPM (Rust Prevention Magic)


Photos 495 - 496 - Wiring harness after cleaning


Photos 497 - 498 - Here's something interesting. The pass side door jamb switch.


Photos 499 - 502 - Last of the wiring harness. I still need to clean the fuse box itself but the harness itself is ready to go. Anyone cracked the coding on the sides of the flashers? One is 7 4 5 and the other is 1 5 3. If I were guessing it'd be 67 - 45th day and 71 53rd day.?. But I hate assuming.

These parts (with your processes) are cleaning up so nicely!!

To round out the clutch/brake pedal assembly are the master cylinder pushrod, clevis & return spring.

Photos 503 - 506 - after soaking. Note the manufacturer’s crest and the stamp.

Small updates. Cleaned the fuse box and reinstalled what fuses were in it when pulled from car. Replaced the starter wire from a spare harness I had. Repair was done with interlocking the wire ends and soldering the connection then covering with heat shrink followed by wrapping the wires back with original style tape. The ends were crimped and heat shrinked as well. Also applied a healthy coat of RPM (Rust Prevention Magic) to the pedal assembly and reassembled.


Photo - 503 - Fuse box before

Photo - 504 - Fuse box after with fuses installed

Photos 505 - 506 - starter wires repaired and a comparison to original.

Photos 507 - 509 - Pedal assembly protected and assembled. Note the pedal never had the bracket that goes on the pedal for the brake light switch which I believe was a later addition into production.

Darrell, what was your method for cleaning the fuse block? You've brought that back nicely! - Bill W

Q-tips and rubbing alcohol. Just be careful around the ink printing on the face. As you can see I lost some of it on mine. Then Meguiars rubber & vinyl protectant.

Not much progress this week as I worked on other items out in the garage but I did start on the tail light harness now that the other harnesses are just about ready to go.

Photos 510 - 511 - Before cleaning


Photos 512 - 517 - After citrus degreaser and then soaking the sockets in evaporust as they were pretty rusty. Cloth tape will be on order soon so I can repair the pieces missing as well as the clips.

Photos 518 - 523 - The tail light harness has now been repaired and unfortunately I ended up having to retape the majority of the harness. But original sockets etc so it’ll have to do.

That's a tedious job. Nice work!

Looks great!Very nice!

Some progress over last weekend. For accessibility I pulled the glove box and door. While it was removed I cleaned the box. Mostly just test fitting everything to make sure I'm not missing anything and of course there are a few odds and ends I have to locate in my parts stash but overall pretty straight forward.

Photo 524 - Before starting the test fitting.

Photos 525 - 526 - Glove box removed

Photos 527 - 530 - Glove box after cleaning

Photos 531 - 532 - Heater box with core installed from the interior.

Photos 533 - 536 - Cowl ducts installed

537 - 539 - Outer heater box installed and the rest of the firewall cleaned. BTW the MEK substitute works almost as good as the original stuff so that was nice to see. Also added the wiper transmission, wiper motor, cowl panel and harness (temporary).

Last item is another Day 2 piece secured from a member here. This car originally had tow tabs (homemade) welded to the front ears of the sub and later were removed. So I felt I should at least at something similar back to the car.

Photos 540 - 541 - Tow tabs

Looking good! Remind me - is that the original paint?

For the most part yes. The trunk lid and part of the pass quarter was repainted due to a fender bender and the addition of the spoiler. During its disassembly (long before my time) the pass fender, lower fender extensions & lower valance were stripped and primed. I have been looking for a pair of original fenders in red to keep from repainting but unfortunately I'll most likely will have to have the fenders, extensions & lower valance will have to be painted.

Great job Darrell! I'm enjoying this thread a lot!

Thanks! Not many comment so I'm never sure if its worth continuing the thread at times. But I just try to keep marching through all the small projects that will hopefully end with a completed major project.

Next updates are the reassembly process for the firewall components, harness, dash items etc. All in all everything is gong back together smoothly.


Photos 542 - 546 - Fuse block installed, along with gas pedal and throttle arm.

Photos 547 - 548 - Next were the Astro Vent duct work and the bezels & balls

Photos 549 - 551 - Using my Harbor Freight special da polisher I run over the dash face with some Mequiars 105 since I had previously had #7 soaked into the paint prior.

Photos 552 - 555 - Installation of the drop down brackets, pedal assembly and clutch rod along with its boot.

Photos 556 - 559 - Dimmer switch, ignition, headlight, wiper and cig lighter switches installed

Photo 560 - Shot from the outside of firewall. Also installed correct 4 rib washer nozzle hoses.



Complete steering column teardown and go through hopefully in the next couple of weeks.

PLEASE keep it going. Very educational, very entertaining (FWIW)