Part Number: 286-VN1055761

These have stock back spacing which is 3.75".

I buy them from Jegs or Summit when they have their big sales on and they are very affordable.

👍

The fun starts today Tim. Yesterday I started addressing some fastener changes on the engine and now it's time to pull the rad, remove the water pump and undress the bottom of the car beginning with the exhaust. Slow and steady cleaning of the significant areas will then begin prior to any new or restored parts going back on. Oh and thanks for the nice pair of NOS fender aprons I was able to pick up from a couple site members.

https://i.ibb.co/8Y2Wn68/IMG-7933.jpg
NOS aprons courtesy of Ken & Mark (one per side)

https://i.ibb.co/cgVxkJ4/IMG-7947.jpg
Found a nice screw to complete the coil bracket.

https://i.ibb.co/N3DGGzn/IMG-7942.jpg
Swapped out the intake bolts to M head markings. I added hardened steel flat washers to protect from marring.

https://i.ibb.co/gm7135R/IMG-7940.jpg
Also added correct original lift brackets which were missing.

I know you are trying to put everything back correctly and detailing your engine compartment. I can't see it in your pictures. Do you have this bracket on your carb base to fuel line. Should be on later built cars, hard to find and expensive. Just curious. Beautiful car!!

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=12107.0

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=8747.0

I know the bracket you're talking about as I helped document one on a survivor LT-1 motor that an old friend had about 15 years ago, and no...that's missing from this car.

http://chevynova.org/LT1_Engine/Mvc-013s.jpg

http://chevynova.org/LT1_Engine/lt1_040.jpg

This thread ROCKS. What an awesome car, I look forward to the updates daily.

Don't think I ever saw one of those fuel line brackets on a 1969 Z/28. Maybe very late cars?

Found another small 1970 related part on the car earlier today. While pulling back the coolant lines I noticed the thermostat housing is part #3972128 which was also used on 70 Z/28's and Vette's. Still had an original AC Delco thermostat in it and will now get cleaned up and reused. Seems that engine builder George Kulp liked his black gasket sealant. He rebuilt the motor and this stuff is everywhere. I'll be changing the fuel pump and the fuel line as it has been kinked in a couple spots and was routed outside of the water pump housing rather than underneath it.

https://i.ibb.co/cb4TVmw/IMG-8048.jpg
Looks like the late 10E cars might also have gotten a 70 style thermostat housing with #3972128 rather than a 660 housing?

https://i.ibb.co/bPMtt3v/IMG-8049.jpg
I'll soak this in carb cleaner for a couple of days and clean it up for reuse.

https://i.ibb.co/98LsDQw/IMG-8050.jpg
I'll also clean up this AC Delco 195 degree thermostat and test it before I reuse it.

https://i.ibb.co/6PxxJm4/IMG-8051.jpg
Debating whether I'll pull the motor right out to get better access to cleaning up the inner fenders and the hard lines which were crudely painted.

https://i.ibb.co/SrLCkhm/IMG-8052.jpg
I'll try washing the inner fenders down with enamel reducer to see if I can knock it back a bit and rid the drip lines they created when they painted them.

https://i.ibb.co/Z6N5JsD/IMG-8053.jpg
I'll also remove the battery tray and treat it to a bath in evapo rust to clean it up a bit. Overall the engine bay just needs a good clean up to unfluff it a bit.

What style & color are the fuel line clips on the rear frame rail

I'd pull it GW. I think you'll be so much happier with the results later on. Even though you are not restoring, the cleaning and detail process will be so much easier and effective.

Besides.................I want this thread to keep going:)

Nice work so far!

That doesn't make sense. I just went through this with the DMV a couple months ago with my 72 Chevelle, they do in fact keep records that far back. She found the original title and paperwork for mine complete with original owner information, but wouldn't share or send any information to me. Her excuse was a privacy act, and since I wasn't the original owner I was not entitled to any of the information. She said laws would only allow her to send this stuff to the original owner.

I hope you have better luck than I did.

Can't tell you what color they are because the PO fluffed the underside and painted it black when he put it back on the road prior to selling it. I'm about to pull the lines down and try and wash them up. The clips and fasteners will all be soaked in evapo rust to clean them up before going back on. With any luck the clips will show some more originality once cleaned up. The head markings on the bolts used on the rear frame rails are ER while the front sub frame has a couple mixed markings including an anchor style. Pics are from back of car to front.

https://i.ibb.co/sKNMM5D/IMG-8056.jpg
Back upper frame above axle

https://i.ibb.co/4FS4xSb/IMG-8055.jpg
Back vertical rail above front of axle

https://i.ibb.co/2YR9Ndx/IMG-8058.jpg
Crossover clamp ahead of spring perches

https://i.ibb.co/kxYfqbt/IMG-8059.jpg
Outer rocker mount mid chassis location

https://i.ibb.co/B4s10Vm/IMG-8060.jpg
Front outer sub frame

https://i.ibb.co/K5HbPfP/IMG-8061.jpg
front outer sub frame closest to RF wheel

great let me know what you find thanks

x2 on removing the engine, to much aggravation trying to work around it, you will be glad you did. And with that said you could paint the inner fenders at that point.
Now git er done Graeme :beers:


Mike

Ahhh I knew you guys were both gonna say that. :Charley:

The engine tilter was actually placed on the intake yesterday and I was leaning on doing that. Also thinking of a cam swap and some other maintenance. I'll pull the motor later in the week. :naughty:

Scope creep already...……...

I know right. I've been trying to tell myself to stay grounded and not go too far with this thing. I'll have another good look at it tomorrow and see how just how much detailing I want to do around the engine to make a final decision on that front.

Pull it!!!!

That way you can access the body mount bolts easily.

Ryan W31

:rolleyes:

I'm not pulling the sub frame...and I'm not restoring this car. :bs::bs::bs:

I've got my money on project creep!!!!!

Famous last words...……….

If I was a betting man....(bahaha) I'd be giving Tim all my money. :burnout:

Actually, today I am looking at some low toxicity (Non Methylene Chloride) chemical paint strippers. Much along the lines of Lloyds Fight Back graffiti removers that will spray on and wipe off in just a few minutes to take off spray paint and should leave the original finish (leave on overnight for a complete strip). Not sure that will work on the inner fenders, but the cling to version should work excellent on the frame rails, as well as all of hard lines w/o the need to remove them completely. Maybe giving the lines a brushing to loosen thicker material and recoat but might work well. Once it's done the work, it simply washes off with water to neutralize it. All of the hard line clips could then go into a bucket of chemical paint stripper to soak and remove the paint. These two processes might clean things up rather nicely. Products come bulk form or in aerosol cans and it's definitely worth a try.

I'll know how this works later in the week as I plan on testing a couple products first. If it works on a couple spot tests. I'll get the bulk material and go to town on the underside.

I've been experimenting with diesel fuel and Go Jo hand cleaner on the bottom of the car. The hand cleaner is nice because it clings to the surface. Seems to be gentle enough on the original finish.

I also purchased a smaller steam cleaner ($200) for the chassis and engine compartment work. It's a good complement to the aforementioned products. Certainly, the spiral cover on the brake and fuel lines can be tedious.

Carry on Graeme!

Since you plan to change the fuel pump you might want to re-paint the bolt-on plate between the block and the fuel pump body low gloss black as per the factory.

7 years ago, was just gonna freshen the paint,,,then it came back,,,just clean up the engine compartment,,maybe remove some undercoating,,

Frame off, all fasteners , well everything re-finished,,should be done this spring.

Funny how that happens isn't it? Maybe you can tell us a little about the car you're restoring and post a couple pics. I always like to see what people are working on too. Is it a Z...what color...what interior?

Ashgold 68z,,quite a bit on CRG,,jano

I think those were the exact words I said:hmmm: I sense there are some paranormal forces at work in our car hobby.:no:

Just so that it is said, this car is in such remarkable condition for it's age that it really does not need to come apart or be restored. Body mounts are still very nice, there's no rust to be addressed and all it really needs is a good cleaning of the frame rails and suspension to dial it in. I'm picking up a fresh pail of evapo-rust today and plan to soak the original front springs which I may actually reuse since they are in such nice condition. I'll clean and strip all the original hard lines and get them dialed back to look like they should. Also picked up a new Bio-Agent that will strip the paint from all of the clips and fasteners and hopefully clean them up without harming any original plating that remains? More on that after some tests are performed.

I picked up a couple new cleaning agents yesterday and will remove the exhaust system later today so that I can get at the rear frame rails and will see how well the Lloyd's Fight Back Graffiti remover does to address removal of the previous owners spray paint work (one layer at a time). If that works out I will slowly work my way forward from there and take it one section at a time. Of course this all depends on the performance of the cleaners, reducers or whatever is needed to accomplish the cleaning this car deserves. I do not want to paint the underside nor do I think the car needs it.

In dealing with the diff, I'll pull it out so that I can thoroughly clean it and touch it up as needed. That will allow me to drop the rear springs and completely dial them back to stock factory appearance using the chemicals at hand. I will then treat them to Boeshield T-9 to coat the springs and protect them once cleaned. Once all of the hard lines and e-brake cables are cleaned and addressed, I'll likely coat them with Boeshield as well. Last thing I want to do here is fully restore the bottom of the car. It simply doesn't need it and would be an injustice of sorts. I'm going to be keeping that front of mind as I clean and preserve the bottom of the car. If I can accomplish that w/o needing to remove the sub frame, then my mission will have been accomplished.

My next few posts should start to reveal some results being met. :dunno:

This is just my thought and I don't mean to offend, but with all of the effort that you are putting into preserving the car, why would you add power steering to it when it isn't supposed to have it? I've been driving my big block '69 for 35 years with no power steering and it isn't hard to steer.

No offence taken Freddie.

Adding it simply because I like power steering, and it's only a couple hours to put it on or take off at any point if I sell the car and the new caretaker doesn't want the power steering on it. It's not a big deal and doesn't alter the car in any permanent way so I am good with that.

Same lines as Freddie - Hard as it may seem - No offense to what you are doing. Everyone does their cars how they wanna do them no right or wrongs.

Curious your direction. Are you preserving this car or doing a light restoration? The hard part for preservation is you would not repaint anything but thoroughly clean and "hence" preserve the component/s or vehicle. In my honest opinion refinishing parts is not preservation. IF you have to replace items for whatever reason that is fine but I would struggle refinishing a component or part.

Cleaning and then Preserving

Not planning on refinishing anything. Zero paint is the plan and cleaning only up to a satisfactory point w/o stripping anything bare in terms of frame rails or panels. The fuel line, brake lines and cables will be stripped to clear finish and coated to prevent rust, but not using paint of any sort. Au natural

Any fasteners will be stripped back to original finish only including hard line clips.

I think I clearly identified the plan in Post #149 and will stick to that. The only mention of refinishing anything was reference to touching up the diff. And that means the area stripped to reveal the stamp where I will blow that section in to cover the bare metal.

All good here. :beers:

Good luck with your project.

Glad to hear that you are adding power steering as I much prefer that at my age...so when you tire of this one and I buy it I won't have to do that myself :)

:Can-I-Have-It: too funny. I can add you to the growing line Mark :Can-I-Have-It:

Please do! I just hope they don't take my 67 Camaro lovers card away from me!!!

Got a bottle of rum, a little mix, bag of ice, some chemicals and a tarp. Guess you know where I'll be hiding this cold winter weekend. Time to start cleaning.

https://i.ibb.co/sjCGr2x/IMG-8136.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/sHy4ts9/IMG-8137.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/0KTLtYM/IMG-8139.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/3MvpHjW/IMG-8138.jpg

Been soaking some parts in this Walters CB-100 parts cleaner and things are looking much better. The original fuel and brake line clips look like they were blue and now I can see the original stamps and sizing with the black paint removed. Bolts will clean up a bit better and and are now soaking in Evapo-rust. I cut the crappy exhaust system off and that gave me a better look at all the floors and a clear view of the drive shaft. Found the orange/white stripes right were they are supposed to be but was it was tough holding the tape, work light and camera at the same time so this was the best shot I could get for now. Floors are real nice and can now be properly cleaned. Wife's B-Day today...gotta go spend some time with her and stay out of the penalty box so hopefully more tomorrow...

https://i.ibb.co/wYDBwcd/PC001.jpg
Clips after coming out of the wash.

https://i.ibb.co/pJzP2yt/PC002.jpg
Cleaned some other parts up as well.

https://i.ibb.co/J382q3s/PC004.jpg
Found the driveshaft stripes. Orange & White

https://i.ibb.co/HPYQWKV/PC005.jpg
They measured about 13" back from the center of the front u-joint

https://i.ibb.co/LZKqDsq/PC006.jpg
Here's a clear look at the front floors.

https://i.ibb.co/kGBbFCV/PC008.jpg
And a view from the back once the exhaust was dropped

https://i.ibb.co/kGQpNVK/PC010.jpg
Grey primer under the hanger brackets

https://i.ibb.co/wy5CrBz/PC009.jpg
What is this bracket on the inside of the frame rail for? Exhaust bracket for a base model that's always there?

Great stuff, awesome looking floor pan.
I think that bracket is for one of the OE exhaust systems, maybe a single ?

Mike