Impressive attention to detail James!

Some more of the pacer from a couple weeks ago -
Installing all of the firewall stuff, the cowl vents, dash mat(firewall pad), kick panels, etc - and also the window tracks and mechanisms (cleaned of all grease etc and then MOBILE 1 Black Pearle - in the gear boxes and lubriplate in the tracks.
Cleaned and regreased the Door catches with white lithium prior to painting.

Some more details I don't think I posted.
Cleaned the steering column starter switch the copper lugs are the contacts inside the switch - took it all apart then cleaned and polished the lugs then I use a non-fouling electric joint compound on the contacts and all electrical connections.

The kick panel sealer - I don't think it is possible to use too much. This is also used on the convertible header moldings.

After cleaning in purple power with a pressure washer - I relube the gearboxes on the regulators with Mobile1 Black Pearle and the tracks with white lithium or lubriplate. All the glasses in the car rolls up with ease - I have a pet peeve regarding restored cars which have windows which do not operate correctly. ie you have to help the windows up into position.

With the parts that have grain. MOST are not clean, even guys who believe their seats or panels are clean, they are not. A soft bristled tooth brush and a can of sprayaway glass cleaner used to gently to brush an area followed with a wipe down with a new white cloth should yield a wet clean white cloth.
If there is anything but a white cloth the panel is not clean. (FWIW using more pressure on the brush will not result in cleaning the crevices)
I take a tooth brush and snip down into the brush to create different levels for the bristles - then use light pressure.
Heavy pressure rolls the ends of the bristles over(preventing them from reaching down into the grain) and renders the brush useless.

Convertible door wedges all in and clearanced correctly - Glass in and everything works so smoothly - Top on and 98%+/- aligned-
Have since rotated the top cylinders 180 degrees - fittings were pointed wrong.
Pinchweld sealer tape also on.
dash mat (firewall pad) and replaced all the pedal bushings and fitted the pedal box into place. More done, left the camera at the shop so more updates in the next few days.

Original manual top ?

Bring it on

A few more of the inside firewall heaterbox fusebox area - also one of the satin finish break line on the header molding.

Some more of the firewall and cowl going together.

Nice attention to detail James, good choice of gloss level on the heater core housing. Might want to re-plate the fuse panel center connector to clear zinc from gold zinc. Factory original bolt on the left.

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Building up the core support with all the hoses and light harness - I've got it bolted to one half of a body rotisserie - it's much easier to do at eye level.
Some other - weatherstrip fitting on the top etc.