https://images2.imgbox.com/94/d7/eA53Hltg_o.jpg

Rolling in Style: The Story of Pontiac’s 8-Lug Wheels, 1960-68

https://macsmotorcitygarage.com/roll...68/#more-96557

I just love this type of art work in sales brochures from years gone by.

Awesome!

I've loved these wheels for a long time -

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...t.jpg~original

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1571166710

I just went through quite an ordeal buying tires; if anyone tells you that it's getting tough to buy in 14" sizes - they'd be right.

I had quite a decision matrix going with size, whitewall width, availability and price. I was trying to preserve the size I had on there (P225; or - ideally - go up one to P235) and the thinner 5/8" whitewall.

I couldn't do it. I finally compromised by going down in size (P215) and went to the wider 1" whitewall (you can see the difference in the pic below, front tire being "before" and rear tire "after").

After going through a bunch of vintage pictures I was reminded the 1" white wall was actually a bit more authentic, which made it ok in my mind.

Speaking of which: now that I have the new tires mounted up and put some miles on them - I've encountered an issue where the trim ring is "walking" out of position. It's rotating far enough around the wheel that it is pushing the valve stem over hard and I fear it is going to cut it. I added a little piece of rubber hose around it to protect it as a short term fix.

Anybody ever have this happen, and any potential solutions come to mind? I'm about to add a drop of weld on the wheel to interfere with the clip as it tries to move.

K

Is it possible the trim ring is touching the sidewall of tire and the rotation is causing the ring to move? Also possible the clips on the back of the trim rings have seen better days?

I don't think I would strike any arc on the wheel itself until you figure out what is causing the movement. Maybe a bead of epoxy or silicone on the wheel instead.

Maybe these posts need to go some place else to avoid hijacking this thread.

Thank you; yes - and yes. Front rings seem to be worse than rear. Maybe JB weld would work.

I thought about that - but - since the title of the thread is "You Can't Make This Stuff Up!" and you literally can't make this kind of thing up - I figured it was perfectly appropriate to keep it going here.

No disrespect to Lee but to me this whole thread is one big hijack. And I love it.

;)

Not a problem guys - discuss all you want

I have dealt with "hubcap walk" many times over the years. Steel wheels flex a little bit with every rotation. That creates a vibration on the retainer tabs and makes the hubcap (or in this case, the trim ring) walk around the wheel. Kind of like your old vibrating electric football game. I have seen it get so bad it actually rips the valve stem out, or at least over far enough that it pulls partially loose and starts leaking. Some Studebakers from the 50s are especially prone for two reasons. 1. The wheels are thinner than most, and flex more than most, and 2. The tabs are permanently attached to the wheel on some models instead of the cap.

I have cured many of them by just bending the tab to give it a bit more bite.
Look on your wheels where the tabs contact. I think you will see where the scratches have moved a bit over time as it rotates. YMMV.

They are the best factory wheel ever on a standard production car, IMO.