----Handsome helper!....Bill S

I'm obsessed with primer colors. Do you feel like the camera capture is pretty true to the appearance of the tunnel when you see it in person?

Thanks, Bill

Bill <?>The "Red" primer is really Matador Red Overspray?? (Question) maybe,,,,,,I might be confused

I think the deep up in the transmission tunnel shots are the red/brown primer.

I will confirm next time I am under the car but I am fairly confident all the red you are seeing is Matador and not primer. Remember LOS cars were painted differently than NOR cars. My fathers green 68 (NOR) does have some primer but not as much in the tunnel area until you get closer to the rear axle area.

Last night I spent a few hours working on removing the black overspray off the top of the cowl and tulip areas. Word of advice, if you still have any MEK make sure you have whatever you are working on in a well ventilated area as you are gonna burn some brain cells.. I almost felt a buzz afterward and I had fans going in the garage. Either way it worked sorta well but I am going to try oven cleaner next. If you have any experience and success with spray bomb removal chime in as I am open to suggestions.

Photo 242 - Pass tulip before removal

Photo 243 - After a few attempts at removal

Photo 244 - Plug removal showing original white for the white out for the stripes

Photo 245 - Upper cowl after a few passes with MEK and a scotchbrite pad and a few with 800 grit paper.

Photo 246 - Fan shroud after cleaning. There was a ton of overspray on it and I still see spots I missed but I needed to "tap out" for the night and called it for now. Will show done done photos once I'm done done.. lol

Some progression although slow it is moving forward. Needed to continue with firewall cleaning and removal of old black spray bomb paint so I pulled the steering column, e-brake assembly and master, metering valve and distribution block for cleaning.

Photo 247 - Original e-brake assembly after removal

Photo 248 - 250 - E-brake assembly after soaking in Evaporust overnight. Also to note that the bottom tooth on the gear is also painted black as it follows the same line as the painted arm.


Next I pulled the master, metering valve and distribution block back off the car for cleaning and rebuilds.

Photo 251 - As found setup on the car.

Photo 252 - 254 - Metering valve during rebuild and after soaking in Evaporust. Date on valve is either 36 or 38. Original Bendix rubber cap over rear of valve shaft.

Photo 255 - 258 - Master will have to be sent off to be sleeved. I've used White Post in the past and will most likely use them again as the last one they did came back great and they left it unrestored as I requested. Ordered a rebuild kit for the distribution block last night and Scott (Muscle Car Research) sent me an email this morning and the kit will go out today. But everything has been cleaned and soaked in Evaporust and I stuck everything back together just to not have everything laying around to get lost or misplaced. Cast date on master is D1.

Photos 259 - 261 - Cleaned the master lid.

Received my distribution block rebuild kit from Musclecar Research a couple weeks ago and got it rebuilt. However upon installing the new seat; it failed to hold and pushed past the resting shoulder and became useless. Maybe I wasn't holding my mouth right when installing it but I pulled the new now damaged seat and reinstalled the old seat and it tightened up just like it should so that issue was corrected. Sorry I failed to get photos of the new o-rings on the piston but you get the idea as far as that goes.


Photos 262 - 268 - Removal of seat and piston in distribution block. Then new springs, piston o-rings and old seat reinstalled and then distribution block treated with a little RPM (Rust Prevention Magic)

Next on the multitude of things to do I decided to clean up the e-brake cable to go along with the e-brake assembly I previously cleaned.

Photos 269 - 271 - Before cleaning of e-brake cable

Photos 272 - 276 - Cable after cleaning. BTW the wet look on the cable is the RPM that hasn't dried yet.

Last thing for today was to get the kick panels cleaned up and ready to be installed once the time comes.

Photos 277 - 277 - Panels before cleaning

Photo 278 - 280 - Panels after cleaning

Great work Darrell!! Parallel to what I've done on Chevelles. - Bill W

Nice work. What did you clean the fan shroud with?

Thanks. MEK

^ MEK to remove spray bomb black off a fan shroud?

If so, I’m going to try that too. Thanks!

They no longer make MEK. They have what is called MEK substitute. I have not tried it to date but will soon as I am now out of all my old MEK stockpile.

Great work Darrell.Very informative.Keep up the good work!

Photos 281 - 282 - Original calipers before teardown and cleaning. Cleaning was like many of my previous cleanings. Citrus degreaser then soaking in Evaporust. Then coat with RPM or Rust Veto or alike. Currently I am using up my RPM as it seems to work very well.


Photo 283 - Results of bracket line brackets and lines after cleaning. These are original finishes. Nothing was rezinc'd or refinished.


Photos 284 - 286 - Calipers after cleaning. I did have to buy new pad pins as the originals were MIA as noted in previous photo as someone had installed a nail in place of one of them in the cars past. I will have to send these out as 2 of the 8 bores are pitted so stainless sleeves will be needed. Note black paint still present on the rears of the calipers.

enjoying this preservation thread, I am kinda in the same boat on some things with my 68 z ;) . I will soon looking at my brakes and getting tips to preserve here.

Who are you using to sleeve the calipers?

Haven’t decided. White Post Restorations currently has the master cylinder (they received it on 5/6) and I’m waiting for it to come back. Depending on turn around I’ll probably use them but it’s $320 per caliper (4 piston) plus shipping. I’ve used them in the past with good results so I have no experience with any other company. Maybe someone else can chime in on their experiences with someone else?

Amazing those brake line brackets came out so mint.

Figured I'd update this thread since its been a few months.

Photo 287 - 289 - Finally got the master back from White Post and I assembled the components.

Next I decided to bounce back and clean up the cowl panel & wiper transmission.

Photo 290 - 291 - Panel & linkage before cleaning.

Photo 292 - 295 - After cleaning, Meguiars #7, wet sanding with 2K, Meguiars 105 & 205, and Meguiars #7 again.

Photo 296 - 298 - screws, squirters and cowl seal added after they were cleaned.

Photo 299 - 302 - Lastly are details on the wiper transmission linkage after cleaning.

Photo 303 - 306 - Details continued. Cleaning consisted of citrus cleaner, evaporust, Meguiars #7 & Rust Prevention Magic (RPM).

Thanks to Jose for hooking me up with an early shifter assembly along with a handle. Here’s one before before photos


Photo 307 - 308 - As received before cleaning.

Photo 309 - 310 - After Cleaning and greasing/rebuilding.

One other quick purchase to note is a vintage Mallory Rev Limiter. I'll try to update this thread again when I have time. Thanks for looking.


Photo 311 - 312 - Mallory Rev Limiter

Thanks for sharing - really enjoy what you are doing here.

I always enjoy your updates Darrell!

Very nice!

Very cool! Looking great!

Thank you gentlemen.


Photo 313 - Driveshaft after cleaning but before soaking in evaporust.

Photo 314 - 315 - Yoke after removing from shaft.

Photo 316 - Broke out the pvc pipe to soak the shaft while the yoke was soaked in a smaller container as well as the original u joint.

Photo 317 - 319 - Yoke after soaking and during rebuild of u-joint. Absolutely zero play in the cups and no wear in the needles or cups. Unfortunately I wasn’t so lucky on the diff side joint so I will source a new grease-able one from a local parts house.

Photo 320 - Driveshaft after soaking and reinstalling yoke.

Some driveshaft marking details.

Photo 321 - 327 - What’s left of the white stripe, then oddly enough what appears to be remnants of a stenciled part number but unable to make it out completely and then at the end of the stencil is the remains of the orange stripe.

The front brake lines and clips that had black overspray on them and surprisingly it saved them from pitting and corrosion.

Photo 328 - Crossover brake line to the passenger side front and the drivers side front line. Sorry no photos of before paint removal.

Photo 329 - 331 - Clips and bolts before removal of paint showing detail of stamped “3” and then after cleaning.

Photo 332 - 334 - close ups of the brake lines.

Pulled the main fuel line and gave it a good once over.


Photos 335 - 337 - Before photos

Photos 338 - 340 - After photos. As you can tell that line looked pretty cruddy but with a little pedestal mounted grinder with a wire wheel and hitting the whole line with Wenol Blue and Red metal compounds made it come out decent enough for this ole hunk of junk. I will apply RPM to the line once it gets closer to reinstallation.

Great pics and details, lots of excellent information. The car will stand very tall after your detailing, which you've been careful not to be too invasive.

Thanks for sharing!!!

Thank you Steve and all the others for the "likes/thanks".

Keep it Up, Wow this thread is not just a 'color coated' job, nice attention to detail.
Where are you lining up for one of the five divisions of vintage certification in this effort?

Nice Heart and Soul project with great level of sharing.

Thanks for your efforts.

Jim

Ha!

Actually going for the 6th division of vintage. "WTF were you thinking..??... Just restore that POS" level.. Instead of a cert, I get a sippy cup and a balloon.


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Same process of wire wheel grinder & Wenol blue & red compounds.

Photo 341 - 343 - Main brake line before cleaning

Photo 344 - 346 - After cleaning and polishing using Wenol

Photo 347 - 348 - All hard lines are now preserved.

Photo 349 - Subframe upon initial removal

Photo 350 - 351 - Frame after a quick pressure wash with no cleaners

Photo 352 - 353 - Close up photos of the firewall and toe boards

Photo 354 - 355 - No signs of tape on the subframe to body bolt holes. But previously noted tape still in and around rear shock holes.

Photo 356 - Subframe bolts bushings

Photo 357 - Misc clips & bolts from brake & fuel lines

Photo 358 - Pedal before cleaning

Photo 359 - 360 - Pedal and clutch rod after soaking (sorry failed to grab a before of the rod but it was rusty with black spray bomb on a portion of the rod exposed to the engine compartment)

Photo 361 - 363 - Ground straps and bolts (for the record I have not confirmed if these engine ground straps are correct as they seem long but they can be place holders for now. Frame to body strap is correct)

Photo 364 - Nuts that hold the booster to firewall, clutch & brake assembly (and steering column to dash), clutch boot, pivot mount bolts and accelerator lever bolt. All are wet due to being sprayed down with silicone lubricant

Also want to say it once again that none of these components have been or will be refinished. All this is just cleaning and preserving.

Photo 365 - The before shot of the worked area

Photos 366 - 368 - After some removal and hydration with #7

Decided to take advantage of some downtime at the house and work on removing heavy spray-bomb off the firewall area. I did not get very far in the 4 hours I spent but I think there is some noticeable improvements. A concoction of lacquer thinner, xylene and some blue Scotchbrite pads allowed me to work the area without going too far (for the most part) without getting into the original firewall finish.

Reminder that Clay bars are an unbelievable tool on overspray !!

I probably shouldn't have called it overspray. Its been primed and painted over. In photos I will share at a later date you will see the primer layer before I get to original finish. But I will give it a go to see if it'll help in certain scenarios.. Thanks!

Photo 369 - Original voltage regulator before clean up. I used lacquer cleaner to remove overspray and then polished original finish back to a shine or to the best it could be.

Photo 370 - 372 - Finished product

I next went through the windshield and back glass trim.

Photo 373 - 374- Before starting the polishing process.

Photo 375 - Mid progress of lower windshield trim. I use an 8" (2 actually butted together) stitched cotton polishing wheels on a pedestal mounted bench grinder along with green polishing compound.

Photo 376 - 377 - 1st step of the polishing is now complete.

Photo 378 - All trim now done with step one of polishing. Next will be evaluating any shadowing, dings and remaining scratches and moving to a final polishing compound on the buffing wheel and I will finalize it with some hand applied of Wenol paste polish.