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-   -   1967 Camaro Sleeper Build (https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=160535)

jbtech 08-28-2020 01:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1967Z28 (Post 1512232)
Bill Thomas has Hobrecht roll bars listed in his 1970 catalog. Do you see a part number stamped on this one? The bar you have does not look like one that would fit a Camaro floor pan so it's interesting that you say it came out of a '68 Z.

I believed the person the roll bar came from and he still has the car. I will definitely take a look for numbers on the bar. Do you mind posting the numbers or photo from the catalog? Thanks. If it turns out its not a match I could always let it go.

Chuck_Burg 08-28-2020 02:28 PM

Interesting sticker.....

jbtech 09-22-2020 03:25 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Update: With the help of Russell (mr.4speed) and Anthony (AnthonyS) we were able to determine the roll bar will fit like a glove!

Also, I found a 1974 Hobrecht Catalog that confirms the roll bar is a real deal competition bar for 1967-1969 Camaro part CS728!

AnthonyS 09-22-2020 04:04 AM

That’s great!

And thanks for sharing that whole page of part numbers; that may help a lot of people identify bars.

Yay!

L_e_e 09-22-2020 10:58 AM

I have a Hobrecht single loop competition bar, now I may be able to figure out what application it was meant for. Thanks for posting the info!!

Jose, where on the bar did you find the part number?

jbtech 09-22-2020 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by L_e_e (Post 1515380)
I have a Hobrecht single loop competition bar, now I may be able to figure out what application it was meant for. Thanks for posting the info!!

Jose, where on the bar did you find the part number?

You are welcome. Should be on one of the baseplates. You will also see a HOBRECHT stamp. I'm going to post the full catalog soon in the Day2/Modified Stuff section.

jbtech 11-02-2020 06:41 PM

Work on the car has has slowed down. My family is outgrowing our living situation and we are planning to move this coming summer God willing.

One of our must have's is going to be a decent size garage. Until then I'm doing a lot more selling than buying online to speed up the process of getting a new home. My car is outside under a car cover at the moment and it is such a drag to work on it. Moving the tools, welder, etc in and out alone takes up too much time so I've just decided to stop for now.

But some progress has been made.

When my engine builder degree'd the cam the specs were way off (they sent the wrong one) so that started a cascade of changes to the build.

I called Chris Straub and now I have a new cam on the way:

Cam Specs:
BBC Gen6 Stepped face Fit Camshaft (No cam shimming needed)
Adv. 288/300
.050" 229/241
Lift 600/570 with 1.7
109 Lobe Sep

Chris said I should be shifting around 6700 - 6900 rpm (Fun!)

Thus,
I also decided to run 4.33 gears since I will have more rpm's to play.

With a 2.20 first gear and 26" Tire, my SLR is about 9.5

If I decide to run my HONE overdrive the 4.33 becomes 3.031 and I can still cruise on the freeway around 2500rpm.

Brakes:
I'm running original '69 front disc brakes since that's what we would have pulled from the wrecking yard and I'm going to sell my '67 brake brackets and calipers.

Intake: Good News
Chris Straub recommended that if I wanted to stay all GM to run a 198 intake. I sold my 198 intake but I will just run a 163 and cut out the divider. With this setup he says I should get an easy "500/500" and still be able to run 91 octane and full timing.

Flat Hood: Good News!
And I've confirmed that a 163 using a GM air cleaner etc WILL fit under a flat hood. The "Low" spot is the bracing near the front of the air cleaner. The bracing is in the same location for an SS hood as a flat hood. It will be snug but I'm glad I won't lose the HP using a 569 intake. The key is using the right engine mounts that will not put the engine too high. I may mill the top of the intake just a tad for insurance.

big gear head 11-02-2020 08:26 PM

Be sure to get a good heavy duty drive shaft for this build. Your drive shaft RPMs are going to be very high and if you don't have a strong enough drive shaft you will have a bad vibration.

jerry455 11-02-2020 09:00 PM

Hello Jose,
Great update on the build!
How's this for a weird coincidence...
We bought that exact same cam package from Chris Straub a few years back, originally for the 454 Monza project, but now it's installed in my buddy's 427 BBC motor for his '69 SS396 El Camino that he "daily drives" a lot. THAT was the motor you saw at Gary's Keeling's shop that he just finished up prior to your consultation. We've yet to install or fire up the 427, but should be interesting. He'll use a nice #163 manifold & Holley.
Small world huh??
Cheers
Jerry

AnthonyS 11-03-2020 12:32 AM

Yay! Great updates!!

jbtech 11-03-2020 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big gear head (Post 1520761)
Be sure to get a good heavy duty drive shaft for this build. Your drive shaft RPMs are going to be very high and if you don't have a strong enough drive shaft you will have a bad vibration.

Freddie 10-4 will do!

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerry455 (Post 1520764)
Hello Jose,
Great update on the build!
How's this for a weird coincidence...
We bought that exact same cam package from Chris Straub a few years back, originally for the 454 Monza project, but now it's installed in my buddy's 427 BBC motor for his '69 SS396 El Camino that he "daily drives" a lot. THAT was the motor you saw at Gary's Keeling's shop that he just finished up prior to your consultation. We've yet to install or fire up the 427, but should be interesting. He'll use a nice #163 manifold & Holley.
Small world huh??
Cheers
Jerry

What a coincidence! I've only heard great things about that setup, let me know if you fire it up at your place I will come by!
Jose

Vortecpro 11-08-2020 01:18 PM

You might want to ask your machinist to drill the extra cooling holes in the deck of your block which work with todays head gaskets, if your running a factory steel shim gasket you can omit the holes.

jbtech 11-08-2020 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vortecpro (Post 1521380)
You might want to ask your machinist to drill the extra cooling holes in the deck of your block which work with todays head gaskets, if your running a factory steel shim gasket you can omit the holes.

I definitely appreciate your advice. We are running Cometic MLS gaskets that will work with the block and heads as is so we are good.

jbtech 01-06-2021 09:25 PM

8 Attachment(s)
Engine Progress. I found a 198 intake and I'm very happy with it. I was originally going to use a 512 standard bore block but it needed sleeves so I went with a very good standard bore 959 block (bored .040 over now). I requested the cam step nosed which is great since the cam uses a thrust plate instead of thrust button.

Original lift brackets will be installed once they are back to bare metal.

Plan is to get it painted this week. Now I need to make room in my storage.
If any of you want the original LS7 valve springs removed from the heads I still have them.

I'm very happy with the outcome and I'm over not using the 512 block.

I decided to use the 198 after speaking with Chris Straub since the cam would prefer that setup over an intake with a full divider. Of course a modern single plane would be best but that's not the theme of the build. Also, the GM power handbook states how to stagger jet a standard 850 double pumper for the engine to run right with a 198. I didn't know this beforehand and was afraid I'd have to use a ZL1 carb with the special tabbed boosters. Turns out I will be just fine.

SPEEDYB 01-07-2021 12:15 AM

Very nice.

jbtech 01-12-2021 04:45 AM

3 Attachment(s)
There was a minor miscommunication with my engine builder that was quickly sorted out. The GM washers are now installed under the GM head bolts.

I also put a coat of paint on the block the photo was taken before the washers were installed. Unfortunately with stock cork gaskets, the drippers just touch the poly locks so we are going to use thick cork gaskets instead and that should hopefully do the trick. A little bummed I won't be able to use the stock GM valve cover bolts but oh well.

olredalert 01-12-2021 03:18 PM

----Why not just trim the tabs just a bit?.....Bill S

jbtech 01-12-2021 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olredalert (Post 1531576)
----Why not just trim the tabs just a bit?.....Bill S

Bill thank you for the suggestion. I asked Cometic if that was something I could do without damaging the integrity of the gasket. I'm waiting for their response.

big gear head 01-12-2021 10:31 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Headers and plug wires will hide those. I've got them on mine too.

jbtech 01-12-2021 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big gear head (Post 1531675)
Headers and plug wires will hide those. I've got them on mine too.

Looks Killer! I didn't even think about how they would be hidden. I won't even bother with trimming them and taking a risk. Thank You! Your posts are always helpful!

1971ls6 01-13-2021 01:06 AM

Use the shortpoly locks on the exhaust and they will fit under the stock covers

jbtech 01-13-2021 03:10 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by big gear head (Post 1531675)
Headers and plug wires will hide those. I've got them on mine too.

Freddie, is that an oil pressure switch on the bottom LH side of your block? I'm thinking of installing mine there as well. Are there any benefits to doing so vs the stock location above the oil filter?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1971ls6 (Post 1531692)
Use the shortpoly locks on the exhaust and they will fit under the stock covers

Thank you for the tip. The engine is pretty much done and the thicker cork gaskets did the trick. Engine builder sent me this teaser pic today but I will remember your tip for next time.

SuperNovaSS 01-13-2021 04:09 AM

I thought Bill was referring to trimming the dripper tabs inside to covers so the polylocks would clear. Looking great Jose!


Jason

big gear head 01-13-2021 10:39 AM

I have the sending unit for the gauge in the stock location. The one that you see in the picture is for the oil pressure light mounted on the side of the tach. I also have one in the center of the block for the electric fuel pump. If there is no oil pressure the fuel pump will not run.

jbtech 09-13-2021 09:28 PM

My Red car has been sold.
As part of the multi-part deal to own my dream car, my Red 67 has a new owner in Ohio. I wish I could have kept both but with our new home, my family, and limited funds I had to keep my priorities right. I'm excited for the Red car as it will receive a screaming 302/ 4 speed. I kept all the parts I bought for Red and will use the drivetrain to get my 1967 L78 going which is located in the L78 forum. I missed out on that L78 car once, and almost a 2nd time until it was to my good fortune I knew someone (Bbbentley) who asked if I wanted the car that was local to him. Through God's intervention and his kindness he went above and beyond to make sure the deal was done and I'm forever grateful for it. Thank you all for all the support throughout this build and check out the Black L78!

Pro Stock John 09-15-2021 08:07 PM

Yeah I'm excited about the black L78 build, please post a lot of pics!!!


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